RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

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adam caldwell
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RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#1 Post by adam caldwell » September 8th, 2020, 2:47 pm

RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

Last Friday evening Patrick Rauber and I held a RieslingKenner charitable wine event at Oceanique restaurant in Evanston, IL. The event was small and as socially distanced as possible, due to the current restrictions. We had a wonderful group of 7 Riesling loving people to share an evening of exploration into the Scharzhofberger vineyard and wineries that are fortunate enough to make wine with its fruit. Oceanique pulled out all of stops and curated a fantastic menu to pair with the wines.
We were also able to fulfill part of the charitable mission of our group by donating 700 meals to the Chicago Food Depository. Helping to provide food security is something that very important to us. Because of the current restrictions on social gatherings, we have been unable to fully pursue the other part of our mission, by providing opportunities for inclusion and access. But, that doesn't stop us from doing our best to make even a small impact on the community and those in need.

2014 Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett

Herbal, musky, and floral with white peach. There was a sense of lightness to this wine that had an interesting interplay with the notes of botrytized fruit. This was the most ‘controversial’ wine of the night. Some at the table felt that the muskiness and botrytized fruit notes were distracting while others felt these notes brought interest and were especially successful when paired with the food.

2015 Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett

Ripe yellow peach and sweet white flowers dominated this slightly fuller version. A long juicy sweet finish followed a lovely fruit drenched slate driven palate. There was a ton of pleasure in this wine, but plenty of potential there for the future.

2017 Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett

Clearly the most youthful of the group, this energetic wine showed zippy white peach, crushed wild flowers, and fine minerality. Racy, elegant, and filigreed. Huge potential here.

2016 Egon Müller Riesling Scharzhof

A wonderful introduction to the house style, offering a nose of soft herbs and white peach. The palate was mineral and laced with Meyer Lemon and grapefruit. Extremely light on it’s feet, yet juicy and elegant. There is a great tingle in the palate with this wine.

2016 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett

This is clearly a step up and even though the wine shower very young, the pedigree was clear. Tart apples, saline minerality, bright spices, and juicy piquant fruit. This zesty penetrating wine needs time, but will certainly have a lot to say in 5-10+ years.

2016 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese

The first of the two Spätlese and along with the 2014, these two stole the show. Beautiful notes of pear and white peach lead to sweet herbs and a note of delicate spiciness. Fantastic purity of bright juicy fruit followed by a creamy yet playful finish. After a bit of time in the glass perfumed notes started to waft over the glass, just adding to the beauty. This wine was quite young, but already showing its wonderful potential.

2014 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese

Similar notes to the 2016, with white peach and pears and crushed white flowers. This showed a touch of depth with tropical fruit notes and deeper note of minerality. There was a wonderfully complex interplay between bright aromatics and a finish of stone saturated with fruit. The finish was long and intense with mouthwatering acidity. An absolutely stunning wine that will only get better with a bit more of bottle age.

2014 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese

This was the softest of the group with ripe yellow peach, rich exotic notes, with a waxy creamy texture bringing softness to the wine. Herbaceous notes added to the complexity and interest.

We did of course get into a few different things besides Riesling as well. Pics of those bottles and some of the food below. Lastly, please consider flipping a few dollars to your local food bank, they are in need with these trying times and would certainly appreciate it. Regards, Adam and Patrick-RieslingKenner.
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Jayson Cohen
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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#2 Post by Jayson Cohen » September 10th, 2020, 12:15 pm

Nice set of wines and notes. Although I don’t buy Van Hovel regularly, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how well the Scharzhofberger ages.

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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#3 Post by rob klafter » September 10th, 2020, 3:15 pm

really a lovely idea

As I said, you've inspired me to do something like this in Atlanta.

Riesling brings people together
@grossesgewachs

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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#4 Post by adam caldwell » September 10th, 2020, 8:59 pm

Jayson Cohen wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 12:15 pm
Nice set of wines and notes. Although I don’t buy Van Hovel regularly, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how well the Scharzhofberger ages.
Was my first experience and the Von Hovel was received well by the group. The price is certainly more accessible.

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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#5 Post by adam caldwell » September 10th, 2020, 9:05 pm

rob klafter wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 3:15 pm
really a lovely idea

As I said, you've inspired me to do something like this in Atlanta.

Riesling brings people together
Love to hear that Rob, thanks. We are simply trying to be a model for an additional way of thinking about tastings and outings by giving back and providing access when possible. Hope we can drink some Riesling together some day soon. Hit us up if we can be of any help. RieslingKenner Atlanta branch is all yours ! [cheers.gif]

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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#6 Post by rob klafter » September 11th, 2020, 9:50 am

adam caldwell wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 9:05 pm
rob klafter wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 3:15 pm
really a lovely idea

As I said, you've inspired me to do something like this in Atlanta.

Riesling brings people together
Love to hear that Rob, thanks. We are simply trying to be a model for an additional way of thinking about tastings and outings by giving back and providing access when possible. Hope we can drink some Riesling together some day soon. Hit us up if we can be of any help. RieslingKenner Atlanta branch is all yours ! [cheers.gif]
I was fortunate to land lot 1 from the Rieslingfeier charity auction. Looking to use this as a centerpiece on an Atlanta dinner with funds and attention devoted to food insecurity and fine wine Equity as a focus.. Had expected the world to open up by now but have a core group ready to go. will keep everyone informed
@grossesgewachs

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Robert Dentice
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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#7 Post by Robert Dentice » September 11th, 2020, 10:23 am

rob klafter wrote:
September 11th, 2020, 9:50 am
adam caldwell wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 9:05 pm
rob klafter wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 3:15 pm
really a lovely idea

As I said, you've inspired me to do something like this in Atlanta.

Riesling brings people together
Love to hear that Rob, thanks. We are simply trying to be a model for an additional way of thinking about tastings and outings by giving back and providing access when possible. Hope we can drink some Riesling together some day soon. Hit us up if we can be of any help. RieslingKenner Atlanta branch is all yours ! [cheers.gif]
I was fortunate to land lot 1 from the Rieslingfeier charity auction. Looking to use this as a centerpiece on an Atlanta dinner with funds and attention devoted to food insecurity and fine wine Equity as a focus.. Had expected the world to open up by now but have a core group ready to go. will keep everyone informed
Which lot was that?
ITB - source | material

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rob klafter
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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#8 Post by rob klafter » September 11th, 2020, 11:10 am

The rudi wiest sticky lot. Would be a great dinner starter
@grossesgewachs

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Andrew K.
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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#9 Post by Andrew K. » September 11th, 2020, 6:34 pm

rob klafter wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 3:15 pm
really a lovely idea

As I said, you've inspired me to do something like this in Atlanta.

Riesling brings people together
Rob, let's do it man! I've got lots of fun Rieslings that I'm itching to try!
к𝓁ย𝐠

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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#10 Post by adam caldwell » September 11th, 2020, 8:59 pm

rob klafter wrote:
September 11th, 2020, 9:50 am
adam caldwell wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 9:05 pm
rob klafter wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 3:15 pm
really a lovely idea

As I said, you've inspired me to do something like this in Atlanta.

Riesling brings people together
Love to hear that Rob, thanks. We are simply trying to be a model for an additional way of thinking about tastings and outings by giving back and providing access when possible. Hope we can drink some Riesling together some day soon. Hit us up if we can be of any help. RieslingKenner Atlanta branch is all yours ! [cheers.gif]
I was fortunate to land lot 1 from the Rieslingfeier charity auction. Looking to use this as a centerpiece on an Atlanta dinner with funds and attention devoted to food insecurity and fine wine Equity as a focus.. Had expected the world to open up by now but have a core group ready to go. will keep everyone informed
Awesome idea, if we can help in any way please let us know. Adam.

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Keith A k e r s
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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#11 Post by Keith A k e r s » September 16th, 2020, 10:32 pm

Took me a bit to get it all together, but here are my notes on the evening:


RIESLINGKENNER-SCHARZHOFBERGER STUDY - Oceanique, Evanston IL (9/4/2020)

This was the kick-off dinner for RieslingKenner and I was lucky enough to make the cut. A lot of great expression of the Saar across all of the wines and of course the Egon Muller flight. It was an honor to attend and help raise money for the Chicago Food Depository.
Opening Bubbles
  • 2009 L. Aubry Fils Champagne Premier Cru Aubry de Humbert - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
    Nose: The nose is upfront and forward with pears, apples, yellow fruits, citrus, quince, smoke, roast nuts, biscuits, and brioche. The tones are attractive and forward, but they lack depth and definition.

    Taste: The feel is medium bodied with crisp, high acidity. The feel is well balanced and forward with pears, apples, quince, yellow fruits, biscuits, and brioche.

    Overall: This was lacking a little bit in some areas sadly. It just missed the mark and lacked complexity and depth though it is a friendly and upfront champagne. (89 pts.)
  • NV Laherte Frères Champagne Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut - France, Champagne
    Nose: The nose is intriguing and complex, filled with cherries, strawberries, red apples, spiced pears, orange peels, peaches, roses, toast, roasted nuts, warm dough, baking spices, and biscuit notes.

    Taste: The feel is Medium bodied with racy, high acidity. There is excellent weight and density to the feel with cherries, strawberries, red apples, orange peels, roses, toast, warm dough, roast nuts, and biscuits.

    Overall: This was beautifully expressive and balanced. This has a darker color and sees assemblage to create this complex and beautiful Rose Champagne. (92 pts.)
  • 2006 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Special Club - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    Nose: The nose is expressive and balanced, filled with red apples, spiced pears, yellow flowers, citrus notes, smoke, baked dough, biscuits, and some vanilla notes. There is excellent depth and poise with the lees notes really shining through.

    Taste: The feel is medium bodied with crisp, high acidity. The feel is poised and balanced with red apples, spiced pears, yellow flowers, baked dough, biscuits, and vanilla notes.

    Overall: This is a lovely and balanced Special Club Champagne. They hold it back a bunch, so it is ready and willing from the get go and immensely enjoyable. (92 pts.)
Von Hovel
  • 2014 Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Nose: The nose is fresh and balanced with white peaches, nectarines, green apples, papaya, white fruits, apricots, acacia flowers, saline, and crushed rocks.

    Taste: The feel is lighter bodied with crisp, high acidity. The feel is nuanced and lighter with white peaches, apricots, nectarines, green apples, papaya, acacia flowers, and saline notes.

    Overall: This is a fresh and balanced Kabinett. There is good balance between white fruits and acidity with just a bit of juciness form the residual sugar. (89 pts.)
  • 2015 Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Nose: The nose is fresh and lively with nectarines, peaches, green apples, papaya, quince, pears, white florals, and racy mineral notes.

    Taste: The feel is medium/light bodied with tart, high acidity. The acidity has some real cut to it along with nectarines, peaches, green apples, papaya, pears, white florals, and mineral tones.

    Overall: This shows off a more feminine side that is backed up with a lot of lively, fresh fruits. (92 pts.)
  • 2017 Von Hövel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Nose: The nose is fresh and exuberant with papayas, green apples, peaches, nectarines, apricots, white fruits, minerals, and white florals. There is a lot of freshness and balance, but it lacks some depth.

    Taste: The feel is Medium/light bodied with tart, high acidity. The acidity has some good cut along with green apples, peaches, papaya, nectarines, minerals, and white florals.

    Overall: This is a fresh and lively Kabinett. There is a balanced and nuanced quality with excellent white fruits across the nose and palate. (89 pts.)
Champagne Charlie interlude
  • NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Rosé Reserve - France, Champagne
    Nose: The nose is open-knit and aromatic with strawberries, raspberries, peaches, pears, citrus notes, floral tones, bread, biscuits, and warm dough. There is excellent depth and while it shows a lot of lees influence, it isn't too brawny and shows off a good bit of poise.

    Taste: The feel is Medium/full bodied with refreshing, high acidity. There is excellent balance and depth on with raspberries, peaches, pears, citrus notes, floral tones, biscuits, bread, and warm dough.

    Overall: This is a lovely and elegant rose. There is excellent depth across the nose and palate with a lot of delicious leesy notes. (91 pts.)
  • 2004 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires - France, Champagne
    Nose: The nose is flowing, poised, and hi-toned with red apples, spiced pears, almonds, meyer lemons, yellow flowers, warm dough, pastry tones, and fresh baked breads.

    Taste: The feel is Medium/full bodied with crisp, high acidity. The feel is well layered and refined with red apples, spiced pears, almonds, yellow flowers, warm dough, and pastry tones.

    Overall: This is absolutely lovely right now and it feels like it can certainly age for a good while longer. (93 pts.)
Egon Muller
  • 2016 Egon Müller Riesling QbA Scharzhof - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Nose: The nose is fresh and white-fruited with green apples, white peaches, acacia flowers, pears, apricots, and crushed rock notes. The nose is alive and vibrant with a spring-like quality to it.

    Taste: The feel is Light bodied with racy, but somewhat searing acidity. The feel is light on its feet and lively with green apples, white peaches, ears, apricots, and acacia flowers.

    Overall: This is a fresh and lively QbA that shows why it's at the top of the heap in the category. (88 pts.)
  • 2016 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Nose: There is an electricity to the nose as it fills the glass up with white fruits, white peaches, lemon peels, green apples, pears, white flowers, crushed rocks, and saline. There is excellent depth and fragrance that draws you in with a feminine style.

    Taste: The feel is light bodied with racy, high acidity. The feel is vibrant and fresh with white fruits, white peaches, lemon peels, green apples, pears, white flowers, and lots of crushed rocks.

    Overall: This is wonderful. There is a lot of freshness and balance that makes this a real joy to drink. (93 pts.)
  • 2016 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Nose: This is on a completely different level from the QbA and the Kabinett. There is much more depth, concentration, and polish with white peaches, green apples, limes, lemon peels, peach blossoms, crushed rocks, and saline.

    Taste: There is a delicate quality to the Medium/light bodied feel with racy, high acidity. The feel is light on its feet and yet there is a great amount of depth and length that is backed up by tones of white peaches, green apples, limes, peach blossoms, crushed rocks, and saline.

    Overall: This is a complete stunner already. There is so much depth and balance to this and the nose is one you just get lost in. I would love to try this in another 5+ years to see where it may go. (94 pts.)
  • 2014 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Nose: The nose is a bit upfront and waxy along with peaches, green apples, lemon peels, pears, white flowers, white fruits, smoke, and saline. This lacks some of the depth that the 16 next to it possessed.

    Taste: The feel is medium/light bodied with crisp, high acidity. There is a deft touch and a rounder quality with peaches, green apples, lemon peels, pears, waxy notes, white fruits, smoke, and saline.

    Overall: This is lovely stuff, but it isn't at the level of the 2016. Still, there is a great white-fruited base with elegance and balance. (91 pts.)
  • 2014 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese Grosse Lage - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Nose: The nose here is more rounded and subdued compared to the Egon with peaches, apples, nectarines, pears, creams, custard, honey, and yellow flowers.

    Taste: The feel is medium bodied with crisp, high acidity. The acidity is slightly out of balance but it is still lively with peaches, apples, nectarines, pears, custard, and creams.

    Overall: This was a very different expression than the other wines in the flight. It is still very enjoyable and seems to be in a really good spot at the moment that leans into a bit more evolution (91 pts.)
odds and ends sprinkled throughout the evening
  • 1996 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri Sassicaia Sassicaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia
    Nose: This was served blind and right away it showed off a lot of Old world Cabernet hallmarks of herbs, savory notes, red cherries, licorice, tobacco, cranberries, roses, mint, and spice tones. There was excellent depth and it was abundantly clear that there was at least 20+ years of age as the tones were in beautiful harmony.

    Taste: The feel is full bodied with medium acidity and silky, medium+ tannins. The maturity on the nose carried through on the palate with red cherries, herbs, savory notes, cranberries, licorice, tobacco, roses, and spice tones.

    Overall: This was blinded and I went to late-80s left bank and something like Saint-Julien. It being from Bolgheri didn’t cross my mind, but, oh well! This was gorgeous and drinking beautifully with loads of charm and depth. (93 pts.)
  • 2018 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
    Nose: The nose is upfront and forward with raspberries, red cherries, roses, spice notes, licorice, cranberries, tart red berries, and some herbs. While the nose is friendly, it does lack some depth and expression.

    Taste: The feel is Medium bodied with silky, medium tannins and medium acidity. The feel is friendly an forward with raspberries, red cherries, cranberries, tart red berries, licorice, spice notes, and herbs.

    Overall: This is a nice and forward Chambolle-Musigny. Like the other wines from the Bouchard 2018s, it shows off upfront red fruits but lacks some depth and definition. (87 pts.)
  • 2017 Rapet Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
    Nose: The nose is deep and polished with red apples, pears, stone fruits, quince, warm oils, vanilla, spice notes, and nougat. This may be young, but it is expressive and vibrant right now in a really attractive way.

    Taste: The feel is Medium/full bodied with tart, medium+ acidity. The feel is more in the light-heavyweight category as it shows excellent density but with a deftness to the tones of red apples, pears, stone fruits, quince, warm oils, nougat, and a touch of spice notes.

    Overall: This is a lovely, young Corton-Charlemagne. It shows off excellent balance and depth along with polished stone fruits. This needs some air now to really get going but even a few years of aging will help it along. (92 pts.)
  • 2015 Principiano Giuseppe e Francesco Barolo Boscareto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Nose: The nose was flowing and seamless from the get go with violets, rose petals, red cherries, cranberries, raspberries, roasted herbs, juniper berries, wet clay, licorice, and wild spices. There is good depth here with the earthiness coming through a bit more than I would've anticipated.

    Taste: The feel is Medium/full bodied with silky, high tannins and tart, high acidity. The structure is surprisingly well integrated right now along with red cherries, raspberries, cranberries, roasted herbs, wet clay, licorice, and wild spices.

    Overall: This is really pretty and balanced already. This feels like it could be more of an earlier drinking as the structure is surprisingly not as prominent as I would expect from such a young Barolo. Still, it's lovely and should be great over the next 10-15 years. (91 pts.)
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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#12 Post by adam caldwell » September 16th, 2020, 11:27 pm

Awesome notes Keith, great detail. thanks for posting.

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Re: RieslingKenner - Deep Dive into Scharzhofberger

#13 Post by Mike Evans » September 17th, 2020, 7:27 am

rob klafter wrote:
September 11th, 2020, 9:50 am
adam caldwell wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 9:05 pm
rob klafter wrote:
September 10th, 2020, 3:15 pm
really a lovely idea

As I said, you've inspired me to do something like this in Atlanta.

Riesling brings people together
Love to hear that Rob, thanks. We are simply trying to be a model for an additional way of thinking about tastings and outings by giving back and providing access when possible. Hope we can drink some Riesling together some day soon. Hit us up if we can be of any help. RieslingKenner Atlanta branch is all yours ! [cheers.gif]
I was fortunate to land lot 1 from the Rieslingfeier charity auction. Looking to use this as a centerpiece on an Atlanta dinner with funds and attention devoted to food insecurity and fine wine Equity as a focus.. Had expected the world to open up by now but have a core group ready to go. will keep everyone informed
One benefit of the delay is that I have some nice wines with a bit of age set to ship once the weather permits.

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