Alsace and Graves

Must say Bacchus has been smiling on me lately.

Last night, with an Asian-influenced chicken stir fry, the Boxler 2004 “Brand” GC riesling VT was just stunning. I am generally more a fan of their German riesling brethren, but do try to keep an open mind, right? The color (and to some extent smell and taste) of Del Monte Gold pineapple – a really bright, rich yellow. No discernible petrol (of course we could debate whether that is a pro or con). The wine is unctuous yet also manages to be fairly light on its feet. There is a certain whimsy to the wine. It doesn’t seem to possess the gravitas of, say, a great middle aged Wehlener auslese – again, not damning with faint praise, as it fit the ambience perfectly. Acid sufficient but not excessive. Also a pronounced ginger note that I sometimes find in the VTs but not in auslese. I would put the ripeness somewhere between spatlese and auslese. The finish is extremely persistent.

The night prior, for my wife’s birthday, my Mom was nice enough to grill a beef tenderloin. Mom (like her son) is pretty much an omnibibe, and I doubt she had ever had the Larrivet Haut Brion 2000. It was such a treat – especially in light of the very modest tariff. I think we caught it at a great point in its evolution – developing just enough that fruit is beginning to take a back seat. Fine grained tannins. The savory side of bordeaux. Dirt and blood and tomato. Even a modestly feral Levet-like quality that would have taken me to the N Rhone had I not known better. No one in her right mind would guess this was from Napa – and I love Napa! Last weekend I was lucky enough to try a 1982 Magdelaine and 1983 VCC, and I must say there were a number of parallels in this much younger wine.