I met Cedric and Julie in Reims last year and have become really quite enthralled by these wines. Vineyard-driven, through the lens of Meunier and with low (or zero) dosage to obscure the picture with sugar.
L’Or d’Eugene NV
Red-fruited and surprisingly delicate, bone dry, style with clear influence of the solera ‘Perpetual Reserve’ that makes up 50% of the blend. The nose is subtle, with both red berries and red apple fruit, and a depth that signifies a degree of age and maturity - from the solera. It’s hard to see where MLF ends and some autolytic richness begins but there’s a distinct creaminess to the texture. Plenty of energy on the mid-palate and the balance between the bone dry cut of the low dosage and the amplitude of the Pinot Meunier fruit is very cleverly managed. Finishes with spicy red fruit.
90/100
L’Extra Or NV
Same as L’Or d’Eugene but late disgorged after 48 months on lees and zero dosage. Slightly deeper colour and a striking nose that’s both slightly waxy and, instead of yeast autolysis, seems markedly saline and marine. Bracingly dry and cutting a line straight through the palate, this hums with an electrical energy. Flavours of preserved lemon and berries. It has many more layers than the L’Or d’Eugene and greater intensity through the mid-palate and finish. Great, cleansing, cut on the finish.
93/100
Les Vignes de Mon Village NV
Much more conventional in style. Nose has berries, some floral tones and buttered toast autolysis. Shows more primary fruit that the Solera wines, with immediate volume on the palate but the very dry style keeps the overall profile lean, linear and mineral. Impressive mid-palate complexity. A different, more fruit-driven and primary expression of Meunier, yet with real grip and drive toward the finish that is long and lingering.
92/100
Special Club Les Fortes Terres 2015
Pale gold. Nose shows intensity, spice, patisserie autolysis and brioche richness. Immediately fills the palate with scent. Lots of volume and blossom characters here. More floral than fruit-led. Clearly quite a rich, generous vintage with the acidity tempered by cream and barrel influence. It is layered in the mid-palate and caressing, rather than driving, on the finish. Finely balanced and feels ‘crafted’ rather than chiselled - by which I mean the delicacy that seems to characterise the style here. Finishes very lifted and aerial.
94/100
Special Club Rose de Saignee Les Bouts de la Ville 2016
The most singlular wine in the range. A strikingly deep - saignee - rose. Everything about this is intensely vinous. It is dry, full-bodied and authoritative, with significant amplitude on the palate. The fruit characters are of intense red berries and strawberries, with the sweetness of ripe fruit and then a markedly dry, driving profile. There’s almost a natural wine element to this - wild and uncompromising. Unique, really quite concentrated and extremely vinous, this won’t be for everyone but is extremely impressive in its style and I can see it being brilliant in the right food context.
92/100