Last night we tried the 2002 Chandon de Briailles, Volnay, 1er Cru Caillerets. Nice clear, red in the glass, lightening at the edges, exactly what I’d expect for a bottle of this age. A nice, if slightly restrained nose of cherry, earth, mushroom, spice and light floral notes. A bit tight and tannic on the palate initially, turning a bit more supple and complex with airing, showing bright cherry fruit, gravelly earth, spice, and leafy notes. Tasted over four hours, and while a very nice Burgundy, I was expecting more from this wine, which I remember loving at release and also about 5 years ago when I tried it last. It seemed a touch under-fruited for the structure, which is kind of rare for an '02, and I’m wondering if this was just an awkward bottle or if I caught it at a weird stage. I’ll save my last bottle for a couple of years and see if it’s in a more complete spot. Approx…87-89.