TN: A miscellaneous set of white varieties, ranging from overlooked to obscure

A few weeks ago I arranged a tasting on varietal white wines - but without any of the usual suspects like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling.

The wines were tasted semi-blind, i.e. I told which varieties were included (and from which vintages they were from), but not the producers. After I had decanted the wines into unlabeled bottles, I asked for some members of the tasting to take care of the pouring order, so the wines were randomized for me too. I recognized couple of wines from the color, but otherwise I had no idea which wine was which.

The list of varieties we tasted:

  • Maceratino
  • Garofanata
  • Gringet
  • Neuburger
  • Bianco Gentile
  • Debit
  • Chasselas
  • Altesse
  • Malvasia de Colares
  • Rotgipfler
  • Juhfark
  • Malvasia di Candia Aromatica

We also had one extra blind before the tasting, brought by one attendee - a wonderful and remarkably youthful Coteaux Champenois Blanc by Jérôme Dehours - and after the tasting I poured separately one extra blind that didn’t fit the theme of varietal wines - Marc Sorrel’s Crozes Hermitage Blanc. Finally, before I was leaving the cellar/tasting venue, one of my friends came in and poured me a sample of one of the most impressive Aussie Shiraz wines I’ve had in a while.
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  • 2004 Dehours Coteaux Champenois Les Rieux - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois (18.7.2020)
    100% Chardonnay from Mareuil-le-Port. Aged for 16 months in oak barrels, bottled on February 16th, 2006. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.

Youthful, slightly hazy pale lime-green color. Somewhat sweet, creamy and slightly tropical nose with aromas of lemony citrus fruits, some panna cotta, a little bit of sappy herbal character, a hint of leesiness and a touch of pineapple. The wine is dry, light-bodied and very racy on the palate with almost electric acidity, pronounced salinity and intense flavors of tart green apples, some creaminess, a little bit of leesy yeast, light crunchy notes of unripe pineapple, a hint of chalky minerality and a touch of sappy herbal spice. The bracing acidity makes the wine appear very focused and wonderfully structured. The finish is crisp, very long and mouth-cleansing with dry, saline flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits and key lime, some saline minerality, a little bit of tart green apple, light creamy tones and a leesy hint of yeast.

A super-crunchy, transparent and almost electric Coteaux Champenois that is ridiculously young for a white wine clocking at 16 years of age. With its bracing acidity and pronounced salinity, my guess was Santorini Assyrtiko, perhaps 2015. When I learned it wasn’t, I ventured towards Etna Bianco. Both the country and the vintage were way off here. Terrific stuff that can not just keep but also improve for years more. I love it! Definitely one of the greatest white Coteaux Champs I’ve had in a while, highly recommended. (94 pts.)

  • 2017 Il Pollenza Colli Maceratesi Angera - Italy, Marche, Colli Maceratesi DOC (18.7.2020)
    One of the few varietal Maceratino wines in the world. The fruit is sourced from a 20 yo plot of 3,5 ha. Fermented in lined cement vats and stainless steel, aged sur lie for 6 months in cement vats. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Youthful pale green color. Youthful but not super-expressive nose with somewhat perfumed and slightly floral nose of wild flowers, some pear-driven ripe fruit, a little bit of yellow stone fruits and a hint of banana. Youthful, light-to-medium-bodied and playful on the palate with somewhat primary flavors of golden apples, some leesy characteristics, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light chalky mineral tones and a subtly lactic hint of pear-flavored yogurt. Nice, high acidity that lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is long and quite acid-driven with dry, mouth-cleansing flavors of ripe golden apples, some pineapple, a little bit of perfumed floral character, light saline mineral tones and a hint of chalky bitterness.

A nice, fun and tasty little white that has a nice, understated floral quality to it, making it feel something not unlike an understated Muscat with good acidity. Fresh and balanced overall feel. Due to the somewhat Italian feel of the wine I guessed correctly that this was Maceratino, even though I’ve never had one before! The wine might be a bit too young for its own good, coming across as quite primary and even very slightly lactic, so perhaps I’d let it age for a bit more. Seeing how youthful the wine is at 3 years of age, I have no doubts it will continue to improve in a cellar for at least a handful of years more. Good value at 14,90€. (91 pts.)

  • 2017 Terracruda Garofanata Marche IGT - Italy, Marche, Marche IGT (18.7.2020)
    To my understanding, this is one of the two varietal Garofanata wines in existence. The fruit is sourced from a 20-yo vineyard of one hectare in Pesaro e Urbino, Marche. 13% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Youthful, intense and quite concentrated lime-green color. Ripe, fresh and fruity nose with youthful aromas of golden apples, some sweet pear, a little bit of nectarine, light spicy notes and a hint of apple jam. The wine is juicy, moderately full-bodied and slightly on the palate with flavors of spicy red apples, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of peach, light waxy tones, a perfumed primary hint of apple blossom and a spicy touch of Verdicchio-ish almond undertones. The overall feel is quite ripe and not particularly delicate, yet not noticeably weighty either. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine enjoyably in balance. The long finish is lively and refreshing with somewhat extracted feel of bitterness and spice, some juicy exotic fruit, a little bit of spicy red apple, light notes of slivered almonds and a hint of peach.

A very nice, ripe and balanced Italian white with somewhat Verdicchio-ish feel to it - although with its sense of ripeness and somewhat apple-driven fruit guessed that this was an Austrian Neuburger. All in all, good stuff with some sense of power and concentration yet never once coming across as particularly heavy or weighty. Still relatively youthful in style, I can imagine this will continue to improve for at least a handful of years in a cellar. For such an obscure variety this was a pretty nice little drop and very affordable for its quality at 13,80€. (90 pts.)

Pale yellow-green color with deeper lemon-yellow overtones. Upon opening quite clean and fruity nose, but opens up rather quickly into something more funky and natty with aromas of ethery volatile acidity, some waxy funk, a little bit of aldehydic green apple slice character and a hint of honeyed richness. The wine is wild, medium-bodied and quite delicate on the palate with flavors of tart green apples, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of hay, light aldehydic notes of sorrel and a slightly rough hint of acetic VA. There seems to be a sesame seed-like touch of something grainy suggesting that the aftertaste is going to be mousy. The acidity feels quite high, lending a balanced feel to the wine. The finish is crisp, tangy and quite saline with quite long flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some tart green apples, a little bit of hay and, finally, a good deal of mousiness. At first the unclean THP character is a mere suggestion, but after 10-15 seconds of swallowing the wine, the nutty, kernel-y and bready flavors of mousiness emerge like a wave, overwhelming all the fresh and crunchy qualities of the aftertaste.

Ugh. A disappointment. Without the mousiness, this could’ve been a quite nice and fresh little Alpine white. Without the mousiness and the elevated levels of acetic VA this would’ve been a very lovely effort. However, it turned to be a somewhat generic natural wine where the natty qualities overwhelmed most of the varietal color and any sense of place. Feels overpriced for the quality at 26€. (77 pts.)

Quite youthful and rather pale lemon yellow color with lime green highlights. The nose feels youthful and vibrant with intense and somewhat sweet-toned aromas of ripe quince, some floral notes of apple blossom and wild flowers, light waxy tones, a little bit of leesy character, a hint of ripe apricot and a touch of honey. The wine is still quite youthful and enjoyably intense on the palate with a medium body and lively flavors of crunchy quince, some tangy saline mineral tones, a little bit of fresh white peach, light and subtly bitter spicy undertones, a hint of pomelo and a touch of fresh green pear. The good, bright acidity lends the wine good sense of balance and structure. The finish is ripe yet very lively and fresh with lengthy aftertaste of golden apples, some slightly bitter notes of exotic spice, light pomelo-driven citrus fruit tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of beeswax.

A solid, fresh and precise Neuburger with good sense of concentration and structure. Has developed some nice complexity since the last time I’ve had this wine, but even at the age of 4 years the wine shows very little if any sense of age. Most likely it will continue to improve effortlessly for another 6-10 years. Delightful stuff, solid value at 16,39€. (91 pts.)

  • 2016 Antoine Arena Bianco Gentile - France, Vin de France (18.7.2020)
    100% Bianco Gentile from a vineyard planted in 1997. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, aged on the lees in concrete tanks. Bottled unfiltered with minimal sulfites. Labeled as Vin de France, since Bianco Gentile (or Biancu Gentile) is a local, almost extinct variety not allowed in the Corsican appellations. 13% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Quite youthful, pale yellow-green color. Characterful and slightly woolly nose with aromas of wildhoney, some funky diacetyl notes, a little bit of smoke, light woolly notes of lanolin and a hint of hay. Not particularly expressive. The wine is ripe, somewhat sweet-toned and quite full-bodied on the palate with flavors of hay, some salty notes of oceanic air, light diacetyl tones, a little bit of woolly lanolin, fruity hints of key lime and mealy golden apple and a nutty touch of chopped almond. The wine is medium-to-moderately high in acidity, with a gentle and somewhat voluminous overall feel without any sense of heaviness. The finish is dry, quite long and somewhat saline with very little fruit in the aftertaste. Flavors of some wool, a little bit of hay, light notes of mealy golden apple and a hint of spicy wildhoney.

An interesting and characterful white with quite obvious sense of ripeness - as is expected from a Corsican white - but at the same time coming across as pretty balanced due to the well-proportioned acidity and lack of obvious fruit flavors. Nevertheless, I think this wine offers more academic curiosity than is a truly rewarding white wine on its own. Enjoyable, but nothing truly thrilling. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at approx. 30€. (87 pts.)

  • 2018 Bibich Debit - Croatia, Dalmatia, Dalmatinska Zagora, Skradin (18.7.2020)
    13% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Medium-deep lemon yellow color. Characterful, somewhat developed and slightly toasty nose with aromas of exotic spices, some pineapple, a little bit of chopped nuts, light ripe notes of overripe red apple, a hint of dried herbs and a touch of quince. The wine is lively, fresh and medium-bodied on the palate with a taste that feels much more youthful than the nose. Flavors of spicy red apples, some slivered almonds, light lemony citrus fruit tones, a little bit of dried herbs, hints of white peach and sweeter exotic fruits and a touch of apple peel bitterness. The bright acidity lends a wonderfully fresh and crunchy quality to the wine. The finish is lively, fresh and quite long with flavors of tangy salinity, lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of tart green apple, light bitter notes of apple peel, a hint of stony minerality and a nutty touch of slivered almonds.

Contrasting the normal style of Croatian whites, which is often quite ripe, sweet-toned in fruit and occasionally quite weighty in body, this is a remarkably fresh, precise and poised effort for a Croatian white wine. At first it feels like a pleasant but rather simple and straightforward little sipper, but at some point you realize the wine is surprisingly nuanced in taste, ranging from fresh fruits to more exotic tones to curious notes of dried herbs to nuttiness. A very positive effort; punches above its weight at approx. 15€. (90 pts.)

  • 2017 Pierre Gonon Chasselas - France, Vin de France (18.7.2020)
    The fruit is sourced from a 100-yo vineyard that is no more than 0,1 ha in size. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 11 months in barriques and demi-muids. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Youthful, limpid pale green color. Ripe, juicy and wonderfully nuanced nose with aromas of apricots, some stony minerality, light waxy tones, a little bit of apple jam and ripe white peach, hints of sweet aromatic herbs and a touch of creamy oak. The wine is broad, ripe and full-bodied with some wonderful sense of concentration. Flavors of ripe apricots and white peach, some sweet golden apples, a little bit of waxy richness, light honeyed tones and a hint of creaminess suggesting oak aging. The overall feel is positively neutral - the wine isn’t showing any obvious fruit characteristics, but isn’t lacking in depth or intensity either. The moderately high acidity is enough to make the wine appear balanced and quite structured. The finish is rich and lengthy with intense flavors of ripe white peach and juicy apricot, some herbal spice, a little bit of creamy oak, light stony mineral tones and a hint of apple jam.

A beautiful, rich and complex with impressive sense of concentration and depth of flavor. The wine might be true to the variety in the sense that Chasselas is relatively neutral a cultivar with quite modest acidity, but this wine is unlike almost any other Chasselas I’ve tasted in the sense that it is higher in acidity than a huge majority of Chasselas wines I’ve had, and the taste shows much more depth and complexity than I could expect from the variety. Even though I knew there was Gonon Chasselas in the lineup, I didn’t expect it to be this wine - my own personal guess was that this is a Roussette. All in all, a truly remarkable effort for the variety. Feels still quite youthful, promising quite a bit of potential for further development. At 35€ this isn’t cheap for a Chasselas, but the wine certainly delivers for the price. Recommended. (93 pts.)

  • 2017 Les Cortis (JĂ©rĂ©my Decoster Coiffier) Vin du Bugey Teraxe - France, Savoie, Vin du Bugey (18.7.2020)
    Les Cortis was founded in 2016, so this is either their first or second vintage of this label, which is a biodynamically farmed Altesse from Bugey. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. 12% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Quite pale, limpid and rather neutral whitish-green color. Fresh, youthful and crunchy nose with somewhat sappy aromas of tart green apples, some chalky mineral tones, a little bit of rhubarb, light grassy tones and a hint of raspberry leaf tea. The wine is crisp, youthful and very focused on the palate with precise flavors of pronounced saline minerality, tart green apples, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of wet stones, light crunchy notes of white currants and pomelo-driven citrus fruits, a slightly greenish streak of acetaldehyde, spicy hints of Sichuan pepper and sappy herbs and a touch of waxy funk. Bright, high acidity. The finish is long, very mineral and rather saline with fresh, crunchy flavors of wet stones, some lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of grassy herbal greenness, light nutty notes of slivered almonds, a hint of white currant and a slightly aldehydic touch of green apples.

A wonderfully fresh, linear and noticeably mineral white that feels like the epitome of the Alpine style of wine. I expected an Altesse show a bit more weight and concentration, but I guess the Bugey style is slightly lighter from the Savoie style. There was a slightly green streak running through the wine, and I never got the hang of it - I’m not sure if there was a subtle touch of acetaldehyde, since it reminded me a bit of Fino Sherry, or if the wine is just so herbal in style - but it really didn’t distract from the pleasure one bit; it fit quite well the fresh, mineral qualities of the wine. All in all, this is definitely not a big or “impressive” wine, but it is quite charming in its lithe, delicate style that certainly isn’t lacking in intensity. It perhaps suffered a bit in a lineup where it was overwhelmed by somewhat weightier whites, but it was pretty charming an effort all the same. Good value at 14€. (89 pts.)

  • 2013 Adega Regional de Colares Malvasia de Colares Arenæ - Portugal, Lisboa, Colares (18.7.2020)
    Cold-soaked with the skins for 6 hours, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, aged on the lees for a year, racked into 100-year old Brazilian mahogany foudres and aged for another 6 months. Total production 1600 liters / 3200 half-liter bottles. 12% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Deep and quite concentrated yet still rather youthful yellow-green color. Sweet, complex and quite singular nose with aromas of salty ocean air, some waxy tones, light sweet herbal notes of thyme and peppermint, a little bit of overripe red apples, spicy hints of nutmeg and Asian spices and a touch of leesy creaminess. Lots of layers here. The wine is medium-bodied, broad and quite concentrated on the palate with intense flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits, some tangy salinity, light herbal notes of minty greenness, a little bit of sweet red-toned fruit, a hint of crunchy golden currants and a touch of smoke. The quite high acidity makes the wine feel fresh and structured. The finish is ripe and juicy with long flavors of sharp lemony citrus fruit, tangy salinity, some crisp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of smoke, light minty herbal notes and a hint of Play-Doh.

A wonderfully characterful, impressive and intensely flavored white Colares with very pronounced saline mineral overtones that are so typical of the region. Although clocking at 7 years of age, the wine is still a mere baby, not showing any signs of age. This is really built for the long haul. Delightful already now, but knowing this is going to continue to improve for at least a few decades, there’s really no point in popping any bottles now. Outstanding value at 13,60€ for a half-liter bottle. (92 pts.)

Pale yellow-green color with a deeper lime-green core. Youthful and somewhat primary nose with vibrant aromas of chopped herbs, some ripe white peach, a little bit of sharp green apple tones, light pear nuances, a hint of perfumed floral spice and a sweeter touch of honeyed richness suggesting quite high ripeness. The wine is ripe, sweet-toned and quite full-bodied on the palate with intense and rather concentrated flavors of juicy apricots and mango, some apple jam, light notes of exotic spices, a hint of red peppercorns and a subtly nutty touch of bitter almond. The high alcohol lends some obvious warmth to the mouthfeel. Although the wine shows some obvious firmness and sense of density, the rather high acidity keeps the balance very nicely in check. The finish is ripe, rich and somewhat warm with quite lengthy and rather concentrated flavors of white peach, some honeydew melon, light spicy notes of dried herbs and a hint of apricot.

A rich, quite concentrated and pretty balanced Austrian white with some obvious oomph. The overall feel is a bit too high in alcohol for my taste and I’d prefer a bit less ripe and sweet-toned fruit character, but otherwise the wine shows great sense of balance and richness that feels typical of both Rotgipfler and Zierfandler. Seeing how very youthful - even somewhat primary - the wine is at 5 years of age, it’s quite obvious it could develop in a cellar easily for another 5-8 years if not more. I’d love to check this wine from another, cooler vintage if it would fit my palate better. Nevertheless, this was solid value at 12,50€. (88 pts.)

  • 2009 Fekete Pince Juhfark Nagy-SomlĂł - Hungary, Balaton, Nagy-SomlĂł (18.7.2020)
    Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in old 1100-liter Hungarian oak casks. Racked off the lees and left to age in the same casks for 18 months, after which transferred to stainless steel tanks to avoid further oxidation and aged for another 18 months. The wines are released to the market 3½ years after the vintage. 13,1% alcohol; 0,3 g/l of residual sugar; 5,7 g/l acidity; pH 3,22. Total production 4220 bottles. Decanted for 2-3 hours. Tasted half blind.

Concentrated, medium-deep neon yellow color with subtly greenish overtones. Fascinating, complex nose of apple jam, some minty herbal tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light floral nuances, a sweet hints of honey, ripe white peach and wizened apricots and a spicy touch of mustard seeds. The wine is ripe, intense and quite structured on the palate with a medium body and layered flavors of white peach, sweet golden apples, some honeyed richness, light mineral notes of wet stones and incisive steely minerality, a little bit of mature woolly character, fruity hints of cantaloupe and nectarine and a touch of quinine bitterness. The high acidity lends great sense of precision, freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is long, spicy and very intense with noticeably mineral flavors of wet stones, some apple peel bitterness, light notes of cantaloupe, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of wizened stone fruits.

A beautiful, complex and impressive Juhfark with very pronounced mineral character and quite a bit of ripe fruit that feels somewhat concentrated by the age. As I assumed some 4 years ago when tasting this wine the last time, the wine certainly needed to age beyond the 10 year milestone before starting to come across as approachable. The wine is still very mineral, but it isn’t as incisive and tightly-knit as it was, as the fruit seems to have moved to the fore, serving as a foil to the high acidity and cool, lean minerality. This is still a beautiful, wonderfully mineral and impressively focused white wine and definitely among the best dry whites in Hungary. I just wonder how so many TNs in CT comment how the wine appeared oxidative and past its prime, since my bottle was in a wonderful condition - as all the previous times I’ve had the wine have been. Well, go figure. Although the wine wasn’t as affordable as it used to be, this is still outrageous value for the quality at 22,52€. (95 pts.)

  • 2010 Lusenti Colli Piacentini Bianca Regina Vendemmia Tardiva - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Colli Piacentini (18.7.2020)
    100% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica from late-harvested fruit. Macerated with the skins for 3-4 days, fermented until dry. Aged for 9 months in oak casks, blended, bottled and then aged for another 9 months before release. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.

Very tea-like appearance with its deep, reddish-mahogany orange color. Very fragrant, fascinating and attractive nose with complex aromas of bergamot and orange marmalade, some cloudberry tones, a little bit of caramel, light volatile notes of nail polish, a foxy hint of candied fruits and a floral touch of roses. The wine is dry, aromatic and slightly wild on the palate with a medium body yet relatively broad, textural and slightly oily mouthfeel. Rich, savory flavors of blood orange, some bruised apple, light musky notes of perfumed flowers, a little bit of of savory and subtly bitter exotic spices, a hint of Earl Grey tea and a touch of stony minerality. The overall feel is very balanced and rather structured with the high acidity and subtle grip of powdery tannins. The finish is dry, waxy and slightly savory with layered flavors of roses and other perfumed flowers, some bergamot, light bitter notes of bitter orange, a little bit of savory exotic spices, a hint of bruised apple and a touch of blood orange marmalade. The tannins lend a subtly grippy sensation to the gums.

A wonderfully pure, clean and complex orange wine with emphasis on beautifully fragrant floral tones and ripe, sweet-toned citrus characteristics. There’s a slightly wild edge to the wine, but the overall feel is very pure, vibrant and precise, almost completely devoid of any “natty” qualities that might distract from the pleasure. Outstanding balance. The wine might show a bit of developed complexity and sense of concentration due to its 10 years of age, but the overall feel is still relatively youthful and I can imagine this wine will continue to improve for years more. Ridiculous value at 16,80€. (95 pts.)

  • 2016 Marc Sorrel Crozes-Hermitage Blanc - France, RhĂ´ne, Northern RhĂ´ne, Crozes-Hermitage (18.7.2020)
    A blend of Marsanne (60%) and Roussanne (40%) from vineyards originally planted in 1945, but partly re-planted since; has more old-vine Roussanne than Marsanne. Fermented in stainless steel, racked into 2-3 yo oak pièces of 228 liters, aged for 10 months, then blended back into stainless steel vats and aged for another 4-5 months. 13% alcohol.

Pale, luminous and still quite youthful whitish-green color. Sweet-toned and somewhat concentrated nose with seductive aromas of ripe white peach and golden apples, some leesy creaminess, light cooling notes of herbal lift and perfumed floral tones, a little bit of vanilla, sweet hints of poached pear and arancini (candied orange rind) and a touch of woody oak. The nose is surprisingly lacking the classic lager-like herbal notes typical of Marsanne and Roussanne, coming across as sweeter and fruitier in style, almost Viognier-like. The wine is rich, concentrated and complex on the palate with a full body, somewhat viscous mouthfeel and youthful flavors of creamy panna cotta, ripe yellow stone fruits, some poached pear, a little bit of exotic spices, light candied notes of gummi bear, a hint of vanilla and a touch of savory wood spice. The acidity feels moderately high, which is enough to keep the wine fresh and balance despite its size. The lengthy finish is ripe, juicy and quite concentrated with complex flavors of ripe pear, some spicy red apple, a little bit of succulent apricot, light vanilla tones, a hint of creamy richness and a touch of sweet, exotic spices.

An exceptionally ripe, concentrated and thoroughly impressive Crozes-Hermitage Blanc. Although the wine doesn’t see any new oak, the woody tones feel slightly unintegrated still after 4 years, lending some vanilla overtones and somewhat woody - even slightly sawdusty - oak flavors. However, the fruit department is so concentrated here that the woodier notes really don’t bother much. What’s interesting, though, is how the wine doesn’t exhibit the typical herby flavors of Marsanne and Roussanne, coming across as relatively similar to a well-proportioned Viognier. I poured the wine blind to a handful of wine geeks and while they almost immediately went to Northern Rhône, but guessed Condrieu first, which shows how rich and fruit-driven the wine is. All in all, this is perhaps the most impressive Crozes-Hermitage Blanc I’ve had, but it nevertheless feels a bit clumsy and unintegrated now at the age of 4 years. I’d let the wine age for another 4-6 years to let it get its game better together - although the wine is quite impressive as it is. It may be expensive for the appellation at 36,50€, but nevertheless manages to deliver for the price. Fine stuff. (94 pts.)

  • 2012 Kaesler Shiraz Alte Reben - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley (18.7.2020)
    100% Shiraz from a vineyard planted in 1899 in Marananga, Barossa. Aged for 20 months in new (35%) and 1-2 yo (65%) oak puncheons. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 500 cases made. 14% alcohol.

Dense, almost fully opaque blackish-red color with the hue of dried blood. Ripe and complex nose with layered aromas of juicy blackcurrants, gamey meat, some concentrated dark fruit, light minty notes of herbal greenness, a little bit of chocolate chips, a spicy hint of crushed peppercorns and a cool, leafy touch of eucalyptus lift. Overall the nose seems to promise some understated sense of power. The wine is dry, spicy and full-bodied on the palate with a very muscular overall feel and intense, concentrated flavors of peppery spice, ripe blackcurrants, quite pronounced chokeberry bitterness, a little bit of charred game, light minty herbal tones, a hint of blackcurrant jam and a touch of meaty umami. The overall feel is impressively structured with the rather high acidity and quite assertive, grippy tannins. The finish is remarkably long, very powerful and moderately grippy with intense flavors of gamey meat, some tobacco, a little bit of ripe blackberry, light peppery tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of smoke. The alcohol remains well-hidden throughout.

Although the wine is obviously a new world wine with its very ripe and ridiculously big, concentrated overall feel, it is at the same time exceptionally balanced and remarkably structured for its size. I normally don’t like that much these monolithic new world blockbusters, but it is mostly because the wines lack the necessary structure to keep the wine balanced - and this wine certainly doesn’t lack in structure. All in all, this is a very impressive and surprisingly enjoyable effort for such a hulking monster of a wine; seeing how the wine doesn’t show much sense of maturity at 8 years of age, I can imagine it will easily continue to improve for at least another decade, if not more. One of the most impressive Australian old vine Shiraz wines I’ve tasted. Perhaps a bit pricey at 150 AUD (~93€), but not that much. (94 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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never had a belluard that had gout de souris, and it is the flaw i despise the most. sorry for your luck…

I noticed that there were many TNs in Cellartracker on this specific vintage of this very wine commenting on its atypically funky/naturaly quality. Perhaps a poor vintage for this bottle?

Very interesting notes, Otto - I drink a lot of Italian white, but I’ve never even heard of those two grapes from the Marche.

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Thanks!

And I have a sort of obsession to check out all the obscure varieties I happen to come across - and Italy is a real cornucopia of obscure varieties nobody has ever heard of!

Very cool notes. I love seeing some of the more obscure stuff. Thanks for sharing.

What a great tasting and great tasting notes. I had Neuburger on my list for when I was in Austria this summer but then being an American meant I wasn’t allowed in. It will have to wait. I hear it is the perfect accompaniment to Wiener Schnitzel.

For those of you interested in these sorts of grapes but without Otto’s expertise, I can highly recommend Jason Wilson’s “Godforsaken Grapes.” It is a great book, very engagingly written and features several of the varieties here (he happens to have had a better experience with Belluard).

We had a 2010 Belluard Le Feu about a week ago. Clean, complex, and not showing age at all. Not a trace of oxidation or petrol as others on cellartracker noted.
There must be considerable bottle variation.

I just opened a 2019, which I picked up after reading this post…what a gorgeous wine. This is the first time trying this and I am so impressed. It is rich, concentrated, ripe apple and honey notes. A bit like the filling of an apple pie without the sweetness. There’s quite a bit of stony minerality here as well that balances out the richness. This wine isn’t all that expensive, so I opened it on a weeknight without too much thought, and it really caught me off guard. What a beauty! Can’t even imagine what the 13 year old version tasted like…I gotta find more of this stuff. Thanks for the rec!

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Glad to hear the wines from the new guys are still good! I haven’t had any Juhfarks from the young whippersnappers who bought the winery after the grand old man Bela Fekete retired at the age of 90-something years in, IIRC, probably 2014 or 2015.

Nice notes. Always a fan of the Kaesler wines.

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