Mysteries solved re Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose and Brut Sous Bois

Recently, I had a first time exposure to the NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Sous Bois and loved it to the extent of opting to buy some. When I received the bottles I purchased, I noticed the label was a dark brown as compared to the initial bottle which was burnt orange. I checked the back label and there was no information I could decipher from either one to provide any details about them.

Also, I’ve noticed a change in the style in the last couple of years in the NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose and have self questioned if that had indeed occurred.

So, I contacted the house about these 2 issues and received some really nice feedback regarding both .

The first response re the Brut Sous Bois stated:

B-S: “There is actually not a big difference between the two. It is the same blend ( 1/3 of each variety grape ), same amount of sugar ( 7gr ), pretty much the same time on the lees as well ( around 6 years ).
We just changed the label 3 times, so one is older than the other one. Dark brown label being the youngest.
As it is a non vintage, the base year is probably different as well, but we would need the lot numbers to give it to you.

I think, the most important to know is, you should drink the oldest first.”

Me: So, I checked the back label again to see if any lot numbers were shown and responded with what I discovered and here was the reply:

B-S: “On the wooden label ( cherry wood ), the lot number is engraved just below the back label.
For this one the base year is 2010.
On the brown label, the lot number is at the bottom of the sleeves
For this one I need to see the lot number, but probably 2011.

And in fact the wooden label is the newest one.
So here we decided to release the one based on 11 before the one based on 10, because this lot was ready first.”

Me: So, the brown labeled bottles I bought of Brut Sous Bois have a base of 2011 and most of those who drank both, preferred it over the 2010 based wine. I thought they were both very good and very similar and in a blind tasting, would have not been sure of which was which.

Me: My question about any intentional style change for the NV Brut Rose is related especially to a change in the fruit profile I’ve noticed with the older releases having red raspberry and strawberry as opposed to more red cherry in the latest releases; plus, the recent releases seem to have much more body and less elegance. As an aside and pertinent to their reply, I tend to drink most champagnes around 46-53 degrees F. Here is their reply:

B-S: “Talking about the rosé, I just talked to the cellar master, and we both think that it is still pretty much on ripe strawberries and raspberries, but it also depends very much at what temperature you drink it.Ideally, around 9/10 °C. Now for the body, you are completely right, and this is because we use more and more wines done with Grand Cru grapes, and probably also due to the global warming bringing more richness in the wines.

You can find quiet a few technical information about our different Cuvées on our web site www.champagne-billecart.fr
Although, disgorgement date is only on our vintage champagnes for the moment.”

I just had the Brut Rose last night and it was delicious with loads of red cherries, full bodied, rich and complex.

Cheers,
Blake

Good info, Blake. I have also had very good experiences contacting overseas producers directly with questions. I have even had the winemakers respond directly from some smaller properties. BTW, I have a bottle of the wine in your last photo in my fridge waiting. . .

Thanks for the info, Blake!

Very interesting, Blake. Many thanks.

Yeah, thanks for all the info, Blake,

Almost my house champagne, so it’s good to know. The one with the lighter label is based on the 2010 vintage, yes? I’ve had one recently and liked it quite a bit. I have never seen the “sous bois” bottling. My previous bottles looked more like the one below; I guess this is the 3rd label to which they were referring. The background (and maybe the twisty thing?0 appear different.

Very interesting Blake. Thanks for posting

Joshua, the first 2 photos are both Brut Sous Bois and are way different from the Rose that you attached. Sorry if this confused you.

Blake, I just “got” the significance of your final tasting comment on the Brut Rose even after hearing the “word” on the fruit profile from the the cellar master at B-S.
“. . . loads of red cherries” says Mr. Blake Brown. (i.e. “that’s my palate and I’m sticking to it”). Bravo!

Good pickup Jim. Our bottle last night was a bowl full of cherries, albeit delicious and served with a good chill. I’m sticking to it.

Love the Sous Bois bottling from them. They age the wines in oak barrels and it gives off a nice vanilla note that resonates well with my palate.

Love the producer, love the idea of an Oaked version, was totally geeked, and … just didn’t like it. Really at all.

Maybe an off bottle or something. Bubbles were large and imprecise, it felt kind of cheap.

I had the wood brown label.

I have to think you had a bad bottle Chris or I had great and exceptional ones.

Blake,

You should have tracked down an older Sous Bois bottle just to complete the label triumvirate. I absolutely hated the initial label this wine was launched with. It gave me a headache just to look at it. The new wooden label is quite nice and I think they finally got it right as even the dark brown label was not exactly inviting.

*Edited to correct spelling in the last sentence - ‘quite’ was originally and incorrectly spelled as ‘quiet’

Thanks Brad. I was wondering what that first label looked like and did not find one on line, so here it is. It is kind of dizzying. Reminds me of The Twilight Zone.

Thanks, Blake,
FWIW, I had assumed they were different, “under wood,” after all; but then you posted this:
"
I just had the Brut Rose last night and it was delicious with loads of red cherries, full bodied, rich and complex, " which threw me, but I get it now. How would you describe the differences between the “sous bois” and this? And I hear you on more darker red fruits in current bottlings of the rosé.

Joshua, perhaps it’s easiest to answer your question with the notes from each of the 2 Sous Bois which were drunk about 2 weeks apart:

#1- NV BILLECART-SALMON BRUT SOUS BOIS- this is made up of equal pars of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay and is entirely vinified in oak casks at low temperature; it undergoes partial ML and is dosed at 7 gpl and most importantly, it is fabulous; I loved its balance, elegance and classiness; the taste profile was right in the middle of my wheelhouse with classic fresh, crisp and spicy lemon, lime, blood orange, vanilla and brioche. As much as I liked the Paillard, this took it to another level. Here’s one of the pearls of doing events like this to be exposed to wines I’ve never had, but I’ll have this one in the cellar soon as I just ordered some after writing these notes.

#2- NV BILLECART-SALMON BRUT SOUS BOIS- one of our members brought a bottle of this bubbly to our last dinner and I was so impressed by it, I sought it out and bought a few only to discover that the label is an entirely color. but no indication as to why; this one was a dark brown with gold print whereas the first one was burnt orange with black print; I suspect this one is a later release, but bottom line, it was as good as I had hoped and pretty much the same with balance, elegance and classiness; the taste profile again was right in the middle of my wheelhouse with classic fresh, crisp and spicy lemon, lime, blood orange, vanilla and brioche; as with the other bottle, this is made up of equal parts of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay and is entirely vinified in oak casks at low temperature, undergoes partial ML and is dosed at 7 gpl.

Thanks, Blake, the Rosé is also a blend; I’ll have to keep an eye out for this.

I understand your question more clearly. As you know, the Rose is a blend, more specifically, 40% Chardonnay with 30% Pinot Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne and the southern slopes of Epernay and 30% Pinot Noir (with a small part added as red wine) from the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne.

I’d say there is more red fruit in the Rose and more likeness to the Sous Bois in the body and complexity. It might be a good comparison on the same evening to open both. That might be something I’ll do once I return from a trip on the 20th.