But luckily I was! Tonight we opened the 1989 Cline, Mourvedre (Mataro), Contra Costa County. The cork came out in one piece although it was about 2/3 saturated. Decanted carefully, as Mourvedre seems to throw a lot of sediment, and then I let it sit in the decanter for about 30 minutes. Blood red, just bricking a bit at the edges. Intense, brambly, somewhat rustic blackberry nose, with lots of meat, smoke, black pepper, and a red brick note, almost reminiscent of old, traditional Nebbiolo. On the palate it’s definitely fruitier than that, with dark, rustic, blackberry fruit, spice/black pepper, smoke, gravel, meat, and light mint. While this isn’ t as funky as old Tempier, it has the brambly, meaty, smoky note of good Mourvedre, and if I didn’t know better, I could be convinced this was a '98 Bandol from a good producer…it’s that good, and it still has plenty of grip and structure. Too bad this was the only bottle I found recently at auction (about $10 including commission), as I think this still might actually sweeten up a touch with more bottle age, as the longer it’s open the better and more supple it gets. I love finding off the wall wines from good producers (or ones that were good producers and now make oceans of mediocre wine) that don’t attract much attention at auction. Anyone know if this came from Evangelho? According to Cellar Tracker, there’s at least one other bottle out there somewhere (obviously not everyone uses it). Hopefully that person checks this board! Delicious, real, old school CA wine and real Mourvedre. Approx…91-93.
Fabulous note and find, Marshall.
Nope, Marshall… Cline’s (Fred & Matt) original base were their own old vnyds in CCCnty, across the Sacramento River from Evanghelo. But old-vine stuff.
Tom
Thanks, Tom. I figured you would know!
A while back, I found an old website that details many vintages of Cline wines from the 1990’s.
http://www.sonic.net/~epcline/oldsite/wines.htm
Here’s what it states regarding the vineyard sources for the '94 vintage Contra Costa Mourvedre:
“…Comprised of a blend of our very oldest and lowest yielding vineyards blocks–including our famed Big Break, Bridgehead and Small Berry vineyards…”.
The “Small Berry Vineyard” is a 9-acre parcel of old Mourvedre vines found attached to the “Big Break Vineyard” in northern Oakley. “Bridgehead” is located a football field’s distance (or so) South of “Big Break”, and is a source of what is classically Cline’s biggest Zins.
I have enjoyed a smidgen of Contra Costa reds that had a few years on them. Often they transform into much more subtle, polished wines that seem to defy expectations.
Congrats on your awesome find!!!
Across the Sacramento River is a different county. I found Big Break Vineyard using google maps satellite. They are across Highway 4 from Evanghelo. The entire area is interesting agriculturally. It’s getting totally made over into housing.
What ever happened to them? Used to see their wines all over, then poof, I didn’t. Always liked what I had from them.
Yup, Markus… Fred & Matt Cline parted ways some 10-15 yrs ago. Matt got the Oakley vnyds. Fred kept the small/young vnyds South of Sonoma near the racetrack, and expanded over into the Petaluma Gap. Cline is still around but not much, of anything from the Oakley OV vnyds. He also started Jaccuzzi Vnyds, which focuses on Italian varietals. Just across the hwy from Cline. CharlieTsegelotus is their winemaker. Charlie is very good. Not always profound wines, but solid quality at a very fair price.
Matt still makes wine from Oakley, but I forget the name and don’t see it around much.
Tom
From the website: https://threewinecompany.com/
Matt’s winemaking career began in 1982 helping his brother at his Oakley winery; in 1985 he began as winemaker and creative director at Cline Cellars. In addition to his position at Cline in 1986 he joined Conn Creek as the assistant winemaker which lasted through 1989.
In 2001, Matt started Trinitas Cellars where he concentrated on producing premium, old-vine Zinfandel, Mataro, and Petite Sirah. After building sales to over 9,000 cases, Matt and his wife Erin sold the brand at the end of 2006.
I’ve got a few bottles of the Mourvedre from the 90’s including Small Berry & Big Break Always wanted to do a comparison with Edmunds St.John Enfant Terrible and Bonny Doon’s Old Telegram.