As part of the Zoom yesterday, I joined Jamie Kutch to taste through these 2018s and moderate the session with about 50 folks who signed on to attend. I tasted the wines across 24 hours, three different times. Since a number of people are on the Kutch mailing list and will get the release offer next week, I wanted to provide my POV on the 4 wines to give another data point for those who want it.
As I have said over and over again, a critic, a reviewer is just ONE perspective, and while you may accord that voice and palate a level of regard, so too you can with mine. If you align with my palate or thoughts on wine, thatās great. Or, you can simply ignore it and do as you wish. But please just keep in mind that these are 4 wines, tasted three times over 24 hours, and I have given these notes an honest composition. I prefer to taste a very small cadre of wines, in more than one setting, and then form an opinionāthis is what occurs below.
Above all, I wish Jamie the best and I will be buying next week, as I have done for over a decade while on his list. We should support those who push themselves, who endeavor to take their craft personally and make the best wines they can each vintage. To me, like a few other wineries, this is Jamie Kutch.
For those who missed the Zoom yesterday and who want to listen to part/all of it, you can access the link below. Stay safe everyone.
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2018 Kutch Chardonnay Trout Gulch Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/24/2020)
Tasted as part of the Kutch Zoom we did with Jamie this week. As part of the Zoom, I tasted all 4 wines (2018sāTrout Gulch Chard, Signal Ridge PN, Bohan Graveyard PN and McDougall PN). I treated all 4 wines the same way: opened day of the event at Noon, then tasted at 330PMā¦then again during the event a few hours laterā¦and then finally, retested once more the following day at Noon. Three experiences, with the final tasting having the benefit of 24 hours of aeration. My notes will reflect this continuum, to help understand how this air affected each wine.
As for the Trout Gulch, 13.4% ABV from 40+ year old vines. Yesterdayās notes reflect a toastiness in the aromatic (20% new wood is used), along with fresh cut green apple, pineapple and white flowers. Lemony middle-weight with great length of green apple and citrus that persists into the finish. There is freshness here, along with cut/intensity, much as have come to expect from the Kutch Chardonnay program. What I also noticed on the first day was a mango note in the finish, which was unique. Finally, with 24 hours of air, the wine has added some flesh, changing the wine from something that was more linear yesterday to a wine today that is showing power, intensity today. The mango shows up again today, but itās being complemented by a gingery spiciness, pineapple and light mineral. There is nothing heavy here, no glossy notes so if youāre looking for a modern style, forget it. This is the Kutch style of acidity and intensity, the reason some of us think that Jamieās Chards equal the best of his Pinots.
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2018 Kutch Pinot Noir Graveyard Block Bohan Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (7/24/2020)
Tasted as part of the Kutch Zoom we did with Jamie this week. As part of the Zoom, I tasted all 4 wines (2018sāTrout Gulch Chard, Signal Ridge PN, Bohan Graveyard PN and McDougall PN). I treated all 4 wines the same way: opened day of the event at Noon, then tasted at 330PMā¦then again during the event a few hours laterā¦and then finally, retested once more the following day at Noon. Three experiences, with the final tasting having the benefit of 24 hours of aeration. My notes will reflect this continuum, to help understand how this air affected each wine.
As for the Graveyard Block, 13.1% ABV from 30 year old vines and completely destemmed (making it the outlier in the Pinot range). Yesterdayās during my two tastings, this showed a real saturated quality, and also the fruit tones darker than that of the Signal Ridge. And I can see why Jamie destems Graveyard, as there is still plenty of structure here. Black cherry, but mainly blueberry, with a real good intensity without it getting heavy. Upon retasting with 24 hours of air, this shows a wonderful core of blue-tinged fruit, with the wine acquiring a zesty quality, the acidity showing up to brighten the wine. This has the structure of Signal Ridge, but better balance than that wine. The fruit has a loamy quality coming through, sometimes what I get in Rhys Bearwallow. Along with enjoying the blueberry and dark raspberry fruit, what I enjoy even more is the juicy, mineral finish and I suspect this will age well.
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2018 Kutch Pinot Noir McDougall Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (7/24/2020)
Tasted as part of the Kutch Zoom we did with Jamie this week. As part of the Zoom, I tasted all 4 wines (2018sāTrout Gulch Chard, Signal Ridge PN, Bohan Graveyard PN and McDougall PN). I treated all 4 wines the same way: opened day of the event at Noon, then tasted at 330PMā¦then again during the event a few hours laterā¦and then finally, retested once more the following day at Noon. Three experiences, with the final tasting having the benefit of 24 hours of aeration. My notes will reflect this continuum, to help understand how this air affected each wine.
As for the McDougall, 13.5% ABV from 20+ year old vines. Yesterday, this wine showed as the most concentrated of the three Pinots. And beyond those two wines, it exhibited the typical concentration that I consistently find from this plot. Spicy (not herbal, even though it is 100% whole cluster), with dark raspberry, strawberry and plenty of grip. Just an intense wine with plenty of coil. And with air, when I tasted it again during the event, the intensity and coil even increased. As Jamie showed a picture of the McDougall soil during the Zoom, I commented to him that I could figuratively taste those rocks in the wineās finish. My final note yesterday was āwowā. Upon retesting the wine today with 24 hours of air, the aromatics are beautiful, showing the floral, red fruited notes and a light stem signature. What stands out to me today is the texture, which is Bohan Graveyard in tone, but 2-3X the intensity. Powerful. The density and concentration is hard to miss. Red fruits abundant, even a creaminess hiding underneath it. The finish, much like yesterday, shows the same crushed rocks and minerality, which is what so often drives me to Champagneāitās here, as well. This wine wowed me yesterday, and again today. Itās powerful stuff, something I have come to appreciate and love about McDougall and the way Jamie makes this wine vintage after vintage.
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2018 Kutch Pinot Noir Signal Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino Ridge (7/24/2020)
Tasted as part of the Kutch Zoom we did with Jamie this week. As part of the Zoom, I tasted all 4 wines (2018sāTrout Gulch Chard, Signal Ridge PN, Bohan Graveyard PN and McDougall PN). I treated all 4 wines the same way: opened day of the event at Noon, then tasted at 330PMā¦then again during the event a few hours laterā¦and then finally, retested once more the following day at Noon. Three experiences, with the final tasting having the benefit of 24 hours of aeration. My notes will reflect this continuum, to help understand how this air affected each wine.
As for the Signal Ridge, 13.2% ABV from 20 year old vines. Yesterday I found the bottle to start out with a good deal of savory tones. There was a tarry thing in the wine, expectedly herbal give the 100% whole cluster, but going further to reflect a creosote note. I know, this sounds like I am tasting a Syrah. The fruit was cherry in tone, with the texture on the juicer side, with a spicy, sappy finish, even a little prickly with a closing note of licorice. Then, a few hours later during the Zoom, I tasted it again and that air really seemed to improve the wine overall, allowing the cherry to exhibit a more balanced, pure quality and the savory side receding. Today, the wine has picked up weight, and itās bigger shouldered, with the cherry showing a little more rustic, with some tannin wrapping around it. The herbal aspect of the wine from yesterday persists, too. I know this comes from a vineyard that is nearly 3,000 up in the Mendo range, and I would say that exposure above the fog really gives this wine a different expression than what perhaps some of us think of with Kutch Pinot. This is burly, heartier and to me, this tastes the best when the wine enjoys a light chill. Distinctive but being honest, I just donāt see this as being on the same plane as McDougall or Falstaff.
Posted from CellarTracker