TN: Random wines from the recent weeks (Huet, Wittmann, Heinrich, Paul Achs, Graci)

Variety is the spice of life they say, so below notes on a few bottles I probably would not have bought were my philosophy to only buy by the case. Nothing too obscure really, unlike my recent first Slovakian wine purchase which is yet to be opened. The Huet I found worrisome - being that my experience does not seem to be unique I am not sure what to think of Huet Secs in general right now. Not the end of the world though, I am more of demi sec guy any way.

  • 2014 Heinrich Pannobile - Austria, Burgenland (19.7.2020)
    I struggled with this one early on. After beautiful aromatics and pleasant entry on the palate it quickly started to drift towards a bit too tart finish. Fortunately a couple of hours in a decanter helped and with some well marbled beef and roast potatoes if drank almost too well. At age six this maintains a notably dark garnet color. The nose is still a beauty: ripe dark cherry fruit, smoke and iron with hints of bouillon. Very much savory and bright. On the palate is sports a pleasantly rich mouthfeel and fine-grained tannins. More fruit-forward than the nose yet with a similarly savory and dark character. Succulent and juicy - not extremely long but finishes now in a pleasant fashion without any kind of overt sourness. Has that lip-smacking quality that I tend to look for in Austrian reds, if then with some tannic grip as well. More serious and somewhat more challenging than what I was expecting but still a thoroughly nice wine for the table.
  • 2016 Paul Achs Blaufränkisch Ungerberg - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee (18.7.2020)
    The deep, dark color in the glass is followed by a matching nose. The ripe blackberry fruit smells borderline sweet but still leaves room for delightful smoke, graphite, menthol and blood notes. I could do with fruit less ripe but I can’t deny that I definitely enjoy the aromatics. On the palate it is quite rich, voluminous and heady (14% ABV) for the variety but there is good underlying freshness that saves it from being an uncharismatic bruiser. It has plentiful ripe tannins that provide a wonderful grip. Despite the ripeness it feels properly dry and comes off as relatively savory, if still primary at such young age. Temperature seems to make a big difference at at room temp it does show some heat. It’s an ambitious wine, impressive even, that might well age gracefully - I won’t pretend to know really - but right now I would rather choose a less ripe and alcoholic version. No regrets here but not a rebuy for me, I think.
  • 2016 Graci Etna Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (16.7.2020)
    The nose here is singular and just wonderful: fairly ripe stone fruit, autolytic hints, some almond and really attractive spicy tones. It has this amazing sunny quality to it that I have not come across in a while (probably due to drinking mostly so called cool climate wines…). On the palate it has good volume and breadth with some oiliness yet it sports good acidity and does not come off as heavy, thanks to the moderate 12.5% ABV. I would go as far as call the mouthfeel firm. It seems quite dry and on the finish has some pleasant bitterness. I find it to be a fairly substantial, exciting white wine that both drinks well and challenges you to ponder about it.
  • 2018 Wittmann Westhofener Silvaner trocken - Germany, Rheinhessen (29.6.2020)
    The nose is bright and crisp with notes of peach, chalk, iodine and herbs, excelling in purity and freshness. On the palate this is a middleweight with good concentration and firm feel. It sports relatively high ripeness but has more than enough acidity to balance things out. It is immensely drinkable and pleasurable if then not a wine of great depth or complexity. A solid QPR without a doubt.
  • 2011 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (14.6.2020)
    The color is pretty damn deep yellow. I first found the nose only muted but one hour later it is completely dominated by geosmin, this extremely dull, overbearing vegetal smell. On the edges there is some of the apricot one would hope to find but it does little to save the nose. On the palate I find the wine to be surprisingly ”fine”. It is very ripe with a seemingly sweet edge and luscious mouthfeel. It does not lack acid but the ripeness together with highish alcohol means that this is not the ethereal beauty the producer’s sweeter styled wines often are. It pairs impeccably with oven baked salmon but on its own it is rather boring, of course partly due to the nose which is mostly to be avoided. Oh well, even the best of us can’t get it right all the time.

Posted from CellarTracker