Good evening all. Despite being more of a solitary creature than most, I think this today was the first time in my life that I celebrated my birthday alone, courtesy of the recent COVID spike here in Texas. I am, luckily, really slammed with work projects right now- so at first I figured I would just call it an early night. But then after my sister and business partner each had flowers delivered, I decided to make a nice evening of it. I do not think anyone has ever sent me flowers before. Lots of other things- but there is something really nice about getting cut flowers that I cannot explain. I just know I need to do it more often if it makes most people feel as special as I felt today.
Birthday dinner of a lovely prime rib with two half bottles of wine- all hurriedly sourced this afternoon from two favorite local businesses that are operating responsibly with curbside service- and all enjoyed with the last surprise of the day, a birthday dinner chat with my brother in Canada. My first birthday alone ever, and it was a good one.
Also tossing in my TN for 2004 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses from last week’s WB Zoom meeting. I don’t know why so many 2004 champagnes are selling for such steals at auction right now, but I wanted to post the TN in case anyone is out there shopping for auction bargains. This is really terrific stuff, and was showing a lot younger than many other 2004s. Great future ahead, and I got the 2004 at auction recently for about half the going rate (Texas retail) for the 2008 and 2009.
2016 Antinori Tignanello
deepest purple red color, after an hour of airing a lovely rich nose of cassis, dried herbs, a bit of bramble, blackberries, a firm chalk note, on the palate tannic but also with very present and forward fruit- notably blackberry and black cherry, vibrant chalk notes throughout and fragrant dried tea leaf notes with hints of rose petal on the fine long lively finish, this has the opulence and heft of the 2016 vintage as one finds in Bordeaux and Burgundy, I am not generally a fan of the “SuperTuscans” because some degree of terroir has been sacrificed in the interest of pure hedonism (the audacity of it- making a wine so that more people like it!) but I have always had a bit of a soft spot for Tignanello because it has a unique profile that many of its more expensive brethren lack, and 2016 is a most spectacular vintage at this address, it has the loads of joyous ripe fruit of the vintage- but also all of the serious structure, complexity and unique herbal profile that makes Tignanello special, this will surely mellow and improve some with age- but don’t miss the chance to enjoy it young if you have a few extra bottles.
(*), now to 2031
2017 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel
bright young lemon color, assertive rich nose of peach, pear and a hint of tropical fruits, hints of violets around the edges, on the palate at first a wine of great force and heft- as are so many 2017s, with 3 hours of airing it become delectably elegant without sacrificing any of its persistence or power, honey notes now, blood orange, rose petals, a certain serene feeling in contrast to the power imparted by the vintage, water worn white pebble notes wrapped in sweet citrus fruit, fine long finish with firm acids completely coated in honey, as Mosel wines go this is decidedly in the Prum and Muller camp where finesse and tranquility take precedence over the fiery textures subtly woven into the great wines of Schaefer and von Schubert, this has become so calm that one could easily underestimate its future, 18 hours later - the nose is more precisely defined now with hints of mineral zest and candied lemon peel around a potent cry of honey-coated oranges, on the palate rose petal notes and ripe succulent wedges of blood orange ready to burst from their skins, the acids are more evident now and quite strong- though in their proper place, very long fragrant finish, the great future potential is now more easily seen.
(****)+, 2025-2040
2004 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses
good bright lemon color, broad nose of pastry and tight lemon fruit, hints of marzipan, on the palate fine volume and excellent depth, firmer and more closed than expected but still with the grand flair of the vintage stylistically, primary lemon fruit, brioche, hints of red berry, long dry finish, a bit of orange peel with time, white flowers and after 3 hours at long last a little bit of cream is showing on the mid-palate, despite being primary and somewhat tight this is showing very nicely right now, but there are glorious days ahead.
(*), 2024++