Classically modern (how’s that for a turn of phrase) white Burgundy nose - delicate, flinty, stony, white flowers, a touch nutty. Texture is lovely; totally precise and focused but with the edges sanded off to evoke just a hint of creaminess. Perfect acidity and balance. Smoky finish. Not wildly complex but really accessible now; if this is one of PYCM’s introductory offerings, I’d love to try the rest of the range when I become fabulously wealthy.
Now, the GLASVIN:
I’ve had them for a week now and enjoyed a sparkling, red, and now this white with the glasses. I try not to be a super fussy person when it comes to stems; the Spiegelau AUTHENTIS are my daily-use glasses around the house and they get the job done. What I really like about this glass, aside from its weight and build quality, is the classically shaped lower bowl area; I think it works best with ~2-3 oz of wine - smaller amounts at a time - that allow the wine to really take advantage of the airspace and gradual taper to the rim. I think the calling card for GLASVIN is balance; I don’t think it emphasizes any one particular quality or style of wine per se, but offers a really enjoyable overall drinking experience.
Doing an A-B with the Spiegelau, the GLASVIN offered a noticably more expressive “bottom end” of the EQ spectrum; the deeper qualities of the wines, especially this delicate white, were more evident and provided for a more harmonious nose. For me, the price makes this an absolute no-brainer; there is not a cheaper, better quality handblown stem on the market that I know of. As someone on a budget, that alone makes these incredibly attractive. The only quibble I could see folks having is that the base is the same size or slightly wider than the bottom of the bowl which makes it a tad less elegant than other upscale glassware, but the stability and sturdiness it provides outweigh any aesthetic concerns I (do not) have.
Side note: my extremely well-meaning but clumsy partner decided to generously take the initiative to wash them and she ended up breaking one in the process (hold them gently by the bowl, whatever you do!). I e-mailed David to ask if I could replace the glass for the same WB promo price with the full understanding that it wasn’t obligatory; David responded within 15 minutes and not only did he honour the original price, he also waived the shipping cost for the new glass. Absolutely above and beyond the call of duty and GLASVIN will likely be my new “fancy” glass of choice for the foreseeable future for both the quality and value offered as well as the peerless customer service.
Pierre-Yves certainly gets the most out of these terroirs. I saw a recent video where he was discussing such things and reckons with earlier, warmer harvests you now get far more body in Pernand wines, coupled with Chablis-like tension. I have stashed plenty of his Pernand '17’s and '18’s in the cellar as I reckon they offer tremendous value for the quality.
I’ve never had the Saint Aubins but I’m very curious about those as well as they’re a small step up price wise (though I think the Le Banc is even cheaper than this bottling?) and within the realm of possibility. I’m also not sure which parcels are owned and which are farmed/purchased fruit but it seems like the winemaking signature is the same across the board.
To your point here, Jeremy, I had a savvy Burgundy guy send me this upon tasting the 2017 Rollin Pernand-Vergelesses Les Cloux: “The nose makes me think Chablis, then the palate is all sinewy Corton.” I also know others whose preference is for Chablis who have bought up that wine. Rollin’s 2017 Sous Fretille is denser and more structured, but still somewhat Chablis-like. I have not had the PYCM version, so I don’t know how it compares. There seems to be little question, however, that Pernand-Vegelesses is a good place to look right now for among the very best off-the-beaten-path white Burgundy.
A great note. Like Jeremy, I have stocked up on a number of 2017 PYCM Pernands as they are excellent values, complete and satisfying white burgundies that provide a lot for the money.
Stop telling everyone how good PYCM’s Sous Fretilles is Sean!!! You’ll put the price up!!
I particularly loved that wine, amazing quality for the price (even here in Oz where it was around the $100AU mark), with such a beautiful spine of acid and overall balance. For me the best of his ‘modest’ 2017’s by far, including the St Aubins, although I didn’t get to try his En Remilly in 2017, but it’s close to twice the price so hardly modest.
But get up to his Meursault Perrieries, Corton-Charlemagne and Batard-Montrachet and you really get to get to see what quality white burgundy is all about, they were all simply superb in 2017! Wish I had bought more 2017’s across the board, but so many $$$$$$$
