TN: A pair of 2017 Pulignys

Sat down with a buddy of mine today to catch up and down a couple of white burgs. Pretty interesting to compare wines from the same village and vintage, although I guess the differences might be due to both the origins of the grapes and the winemaking. The Sauzet definitely showed a lot more oak influence than the Carillon, which according to the Internets only sees 15% of new oak. I struggle to praise the latter’s value at 50 € a bottle but whatta heck, it definitely delivered bang for the buck.

• 2017 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet (3.7.2020)
  Very elegant, somewhat understated on the nose with tangy lemon and lime fruit, attractive greener fruit tones, faint nuttiness, complex spiciness and some smoke. Shows some reduction which feels like a stylistic choice - awesome. On the palate it coats the palate in a fantastic fashion yet is nervous and linear with great acidic backbone and a chiselled form. Super energetic with bright green fruits and a wonderful minerally twang, finishing pleasantly tangy. I think this is a great, very well made wine for its level that exudes purity. A delight to drink already.
• 2017 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (3.7.2020)
  Generous and expressive on the nose with creamy, nutty, smoky and buttery/malo notes. Quite an extravagant expression, although not over the top by any means. The lemon and apricot driven fruit sits comfortably in the back. On the palate it is rich and big with relatively high ripeness, yet again not overblown, with easily sufficient acidity. A powerhouse that seems tightly wound at this point - drinkable and food friendly but not all that open. I find that there is a lot to like here but the comparison (Jacques Carillon village Puligny 2017) is just so much more open right now. I am sure this will cellar well (with the usual caveat).

Posted from CellarTracker

Yup, love the Carillon–relatively speaking I think it is a steal. Just ordered 3 more of the '17. still have some '14 in storage.

Any experience with their other bottlings? Just grabbed a bottle of the 2016 Referts based on how much I enjoyed this one.

That’s a great grab, Ilkka. The referts is the best version of that vineyard made by anyone (imho) and tiny production. Ages magnificently. His best 1er, though others would put the Perrieres up there too.

Sweet! Can’t wait to pop that one open regardless of the ageing potential

Thanks Ilkka,

Two fine producers of Puligny. If you struggle with Sauzet’s 1er Cru at 50€ do not move to Australia. We are more than twice the price down here due to high taxes, duties etc. We do live in a blessed country though.

Best Regards
Jeremy

Hi Jeremy,

The Sauzet was actually 100€ but I understand how my phrasing might lead to the conclusion you made. The line about the Carillon’s value was merely a typical comment on Burgundy prices in general but there is no denying that it is a tremendous wine and a great buy in its context. Never been but would love to visit Australia!

I love Carillon’s Referts and think it’s his best 1er. Had the 16 last week, and it needs a bit of time imho, but was drinking very well. Love his BBM too, but that’s a unicorn in the US at this point.

Haven’t actually, Ikka,
Sounds like I need to look out for the Referts!