TN - 2017 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches blanc - excellent vintage, especially good for those worried about premox

Good evening all,

TN from CT below. I am posting this in particular to call attention to the fact that this is one of those rare vintages where I feel like a lot of the cream and detail of maturity are showing in this early stage. Therefore, for those who are worried about premox (as I think we all are to some extent), while this is not the same as drinking 15 year old white burgundy- it gets far closer than usual for a wine still in the safe zone of 5 years after release.

good bright young lemon color, on the nose lush and joyous, lemongrass, orange notes, a bit of cream already, apples, beeswax, on the palate a forward and luscious beauty- this is Beaune Clos des Mouches in full sail, it has the creamy and sunny presence of a 2014 but like a 2001 is also showing quite a bit of mineral and saline detail, the apple notes are very distinct this year, as are the orange tones, that slight caramel or burnt coffee note that is peculiar to this wine is present in measure appropriate to the scale of the wine, after recent notes for the quite fine, but also somewhat exaggerated, 2009 and 2010 vintages- this is a refreshing return to a more classic presentation with a little bit of everything- and all of it far more digitally defined and observable than is customary in such a young vintage, as on the nose- cream tones are already developing on the palate, fine long fragrant finish bursting with honeysuckle and blood orange notes, the only slight distraction is a noticeable trace of heat on the finish at first, after a couple of hours as the wine comes together it is less prominent but still there in some measure, otherwise a very fine vintage for this wine- and in these days where premox is still a worry, this is also a vintage that you can drink very young and see far more of the detail and excitement that usually comes only with age, this will surely outlive the 2010 but I am not sure it has quite the decades-long potential of the 2009, a joyful and magnificent drink- one to enjoy often throughout what promises to be a very rewarding life.

()+?, now to 2037+, the ? mark is for the bit of heat on the finish, this is at least a 4 star wine in my book, but if that bit of heat is better integrated in time then this could become 4+ or 5 stars and one of the truly great vintages for one of Burgundy’s most unique and notable wines. But whatever may come, if you share my love of Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches- don’t miss the chance to enjoy a bottle or two of this now while you can see that rare display of youthful vigor combined with the subtle delights usually reserved for old age.

Excellent, detailed tasting note. I love 17s, and based on past releases I suspected that the Drouhin whites would do very well in this vintage. I look forward to trying the 17 Clos des Mouches in the near future. Thanks for the post.

one bottle doth not an anti-premox warranty make. It’s random, completely random.

Hi Alan- agreed it is random. What I intended to convey was that this is a white burgundy you can buy and drink very young and also get a lot of the goodies that come with age without having to age it to that period of time when premox becomes risky.

Thank you Joel- look forward to your impressions. I have only had a couple of other 17s so far- really loved them both- like the Drouhin very lush and well defined. I have may more to try- just waiting for the BYOs to reopen and for me to feel safe going there.

How are you finding the wines so far that you have tried?

Wondering if my lone bottle of 85 is still alive?

males perfect sense, Tom.

Burghound and Gilman both post good experiences in the late 2000s and one CTer had a very positive note from 2015. I have not had that particular vintage, but I will say that Drouhin’s Beaune Clos des Mouches has uncommon staying power, and I think more the white than the red. 35 years of age is getting a bit long in the tooth for a 1985 white (I would expect better odds with 1982 or 1986), but if you open your bottle in the next 2-3 years I think you have a good chance of a fine experience. And in some vintages, 2009 being the best recent example IMHO, the wine has the potential to last for many decades. 1993 is another vintage to watch for. If I were to come across well stored bottles of 1993, I would not hesitate to snap up a few if the price were reasonable.

I haven’t had the 85 Clos des Mouches for a few years (no more left) but my last bottle was terrific. If well stored it should be fine. I’ve had great luck with 85 white burgundies, and in my experience they’ve aged better than the 86s and at least as well as the 82s.

Tom, in answer to your question I’ve loved the 2017 whites from Carillon, Pernot, Heitz-Lochardet, Paul Pillot, and Bouzereau. I’ve not yet had a chance to taste Domaine Leflaive, Drouhin, Jadot, Ramonet, Benoit Ente, or Boillot, which are some of my usual favorites.