1997 Colin Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut: Complex aromatics of preserved citrus, baked apple, quince, oatmeal and wheaten biscuit. It is generous and full in the mouth. Acidity is relaxed but the wine is energetic and lively, with fine bead, vigorous mousse and length to burn.
2015 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières: The perfect amount of struck match to the aroma. There are notes of honeysuckle and pure white peach too. It is unctuous and deep in the mouth, with great intensity of orchard fruit flavours. It has real volume but is light on its feet, finishing with good cut and powering on and on. Spice and minerals linger on the palate.
2011 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Cuvée Paul: Extraordinarily fresh, with green hues to the pale colour. The nose is a riot of fruit, paw paw, rockmelon, apricot and peach. It has some subtle lavender florals too. It is rich and layered in the mouth, with explosive power, a touch of residual sweetness and loads of saline minerality. Balance is terrific and it possesses awesome length.
2010 Faiveley Echezeaux, Grand Cru: A spicy, expressive nose, showing some aniseed spice, bright cherry fruit and a hint of beef stock. It is silky against the gums and deep with fleshy fruit. There’s ample structure just below the surface and whilst is is certainly accessible now, you just know there’s plenty still in reserve.
1949 Védrenne-Orluc Gevrey-Chambertin: Some nutty aldehyde and a bit of horse blanket action at first. With a little air there are compost, old Chesterfield lounge and smoked meat notes. It has a vinous sweetness and is still quite a strong wine, with a gentle flex of sinewy muscle on the finish. More than just a curio, a wine that was thoroughly enjoyed by all at the table.
2017 Domaine d’Eugénie Vosne-Romanée Le Clos d’Eugenie: Quite tight at first but breathed up beautifully to show pure cherry fruit coupled with Chinese 5 spice. The palate is velvety and there is outstanding depth of flavour. It builds through the palate, fanning out on the finish.
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