I had these wines back-to-back last week. Different vintages, different producers, different villages – but I sensed a through-line. These Next Gen vignerons both make wines with beautiful clarity and supple mouthfeel. I love the texture of these wines. There’s something polished about them without being overly glossy or superficial. They have a gourmandise appeal. They are open and inviting and just flat-out delicious. But they aren’t glou-glou wines obviously; there’s grip, substance and depth to them. Yes, you will detect oak. No, it’s not slathered on or obtrusive to me. It’s part of the package, like the judicious use of butter in a sauce or a sprinkling of finishing salt.
2014 Georges Noellat Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras
The Noellat is from a relatively small vineyard in NSG that abuts Boudots. Liger-Belair also makes a wine from Cras that shares many of the open-knit qualities of this wine. Yes, it’s near Vosne but it’s not really Vosne-like to me (spice doesn’t sing here); yes, it’s in NSG but it doesn’t have the sturdiness or rustic notes that identify the village. It’s an in-between wine. It’s red-fruited, fragant and has an unusual mahogany note on the long finish. That light-footed transparency that marks the 14 vintage comes to the fore.
2015 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée
The Cathiard is an expensive village wine. No doubt about it ~$130 stateside. But I enjoy this wine more than most 1er crus from lesser producers. It’s just filled with stuffing and sensuousness. Sandalwood, rose petals and juicy blackberries. It’s cut like a well-made gray flannel suit. The ripeness and ballast of the 15 vintage is on full display.
If I had to pick one over the other, I’d probably take the Cathiard for its combination of sexy fruit and elegant but strong frame.
Like Liger-Belair, these producers make wines that are so beguiling right out of the gate. They seem to be built for providing immediate pleasure. Very showy. You find yourself thinking: I want to drink these wines, not age them! Only time will tell how the wines show at age 20. Are they so front-loaded now that they will unravel in later decades? I sure hope not. We shall see…