This time my friend Heather and I drove out to Kitchener to see our close friends Lynn and Jon. Heather prepared crudites (2 delicious dips including a tofu-substitute chorizo that was indistinguishable from the sausage version), Lynn and Jon prepared pork shoulder fajitas (Jon) and flourless torte caprese (Lynn) and I brought a salad. yeah, I know. lazy oaf. Well, I did bring 4 of the wines we opened 
Monmousseau NV Sparkling Vouvray
I believe Lynn and Jon had either brought this back from their Loire trip or had had it there and found it here. At any rate, a fine starter. I believe the disgorgement is recent, but we all felt this was already in a nicely mature place right now with evolved feel and gentle mousse. Fine hint of saltiness, it was an excellent foil for the appys
2014 Dirty & Rowdy Semillon
My profuse thanks to Don Cornutt for gifting me with this bottle when I was in Atlanta last fall. Originally slated for WineFest, but with that being pushed back a year, I can sub in one of my Evanghelo Mourvedres and Heather wanted this opened. Guys, this is steaming wine. Really, really, really good. The aromas mix some lime in with some slight melon, but the palate is steely and firm and mineral-traced and just plain pure Sem. I can’t remember when I last tasted a better expression of this grape in pure form, and that includes a couple older Tyrell Vat offerings. Bravo, Hardy!
2017 Chapoutier Petite Ruche Marsanne
Very fun add from Lynn and Jon, who had an extensive visit at Chapoutier late last year. We all get some phenolic bitterness at the start, but that quickly resolves itself with time in the glass. Although there are mustard glints here, the wine has a definite sweet and lilting character, with lilacs and honeysuckle coming to mind, along with melon fruit later. Still has some zip for sure, a very different iteration from the Aussies I’ve had.
2012 Littorai Mays Canyon Chard
Heather’s bring which I was delighted to see. I’ve had this wine, but it’s been about 6 years. And this is a completely different creature from the one that was putting itself together on my last taste. There are touches of nougat and just a tiny bit of residual oak which is fully supporting the palate filled with glazed pear, butter croissant and a feel of absolute silk. There is a trace of sweetness, but that fits very, very well within the profile of the wine. Some Meursault-like hazelnut presents itself too, and the finish is sneakily long. Probably my WOTN, though that is a very difficult choice from tonight’s offerings…
2011 EMH Black Cat Cab
… which included this one from me. Again, with WineFest pushed off, I can get and use my 2012 bottle next year. The others haven’t tried this. And it was certainly “a point”. Tart berry and currant are the base in nose and mouth and there’s a nice quiet earthy and cocoa side as well. In no way extracted or hot to me (checks in at 13.7%), this is a really lovely drink that was dynamite with the fajitas—the food definitely elevated the wine to another level of energy and revealed layers. Marvelicious
2002 Daniel Lenko Viognier Icewine
When I opened the last good bottle of this at WineFest IV, Loren rightly commented that “history is passing with each bottle” or somesuch. Daniel only ever made this in one vintage and this is surely one of the last half-bottles still existing. I had planned to take this on the France trip Lynn, Jon and I were slated to go on in April, but alas. And I knew it had to be opened this year. The aroma remains quite sexy–peaches, apricots and a wealth of underlying tropical fruit. To taste, it retains the thickness it’s always had and there are certainly replays. But it is now missing the driving intensity (not acidic–never acidic) and presence that previous bottles have shown. The others enjoyed this more than I did on the night of, but Heather reported it was quite dead by the end of the next day.
2005 Chateau Climens
When these came out, I bought about 8. I am starting to think I am glad I have but 2 left. This, too, underwhelmed me. Although there were glimpses of star fruit, vanillin, sweeter lime and very light ginger, this too lacked real cut or presence. 2 days later, it has progressed “properly”, where the botrytis has gained some ascendancy, but it still missing the extra level that Climens should have. My last bottle will be saved for a vertical 4 years from now but I won’t get any hopes up. I am beginning to wonder about the ageability of the 05 Sauternes vintage in general.
2008 Royal DeMaria Cab Franc Icewine
Since they are no longer in formal business, this is also a super-rare wine. And I have been worried about the age curve on all their wines too. Well, this—Lynn and Jon’s contribution—was thrilling to me. Exquisite purity of strawberry and Morello cherry on nose and mouth and the palate in particular has that genius of their best wines—the lifted, balancing acidity to carry the fruit through. There is actually, for me, no sign of age here at all. It’s one of the best I can remember having from them, and that’s saying a lot. Lynn reports next day it remained delicious, with figs, honey, allspice and a little cinnamon.
This was such a restorative night, to spend it in the company of three of my Companion-level friends. I hope for more of this type of thing as we move slowly and carefully forward into restarting our humanity.
Kwa Heri
Mike
