Had a fun, short Zoom session with Dominic and Charles Symington, and a handful of other friends and acquaintances, for the release of the 2018 vintage ports from Quinta do Vesúvio and the Dow’s brand from Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira. We also tasted the same vintage ports from 1998.
Live from Vesúvio, Dominic and Charles explained - in very good Portuguese, with only a subtle Queen’s English affectation - the weather particularities of 2018, which was a very dry winter and a very wet spring (there were floods in parts of the Douro), as well as the advantages of employing Alicante Bouschet in their Port blends - a recent development - given its much earlier ripening point compared to Touriga Franca, the latest bloomer. There’s an average 3 week difference between them. Phenolic ripeness was reached before optimal sugar levels were, curiously enough.
Coincidentally, 1998 was also a wetter than average year, with the harvest being done in humid conditions and spoiling what would have otherwise been a truly great vintage - perfect maturation, low yields.
Quinta do Vesúvio 2018
Nose hits at you with stewed prune and currants, menthol, apricot and blueberry jam, dark chocolate, cumin, cistus, peppermint, even a hint of green beans. Very decadent, candied sweetness in the mouth. Will likely come around as it ages, with the menthol-y side taking the front seat and integrating better with the sweetness.
Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira 2018 (Dow’s)
Very deep, opaque purple, darker than the Vesúvio. Nose has more cytrusy jams and a stronger thread of balsamic/vegetable notes, some fig, a greater sense of freshness or even ‘greenness’. Grittier, more tannic mouth, drier finish, huge sensation of spices, cumin dominant.
Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira 1998 (Dow’s)
Still a youthful color, only barely browning/reddening hue. Nose is overwhelmingly spicy - saffron foreground - already overpowering the fruit, followed by camphor and mint notes. Somewhat tense mouth, almost austere: honey, paprika, very peppery aftertaste. Not an indulgent port, or perhaps just at an awkward stage of development.
Quinta do Vesúvio 1998
Very focused and potent nose, sickly jammy yet anised, quite centered. Overwhelming dark caramel sweetness, more brutal than hedonistic, but with terrific mouthfeel - satined, layered, envolving. Will be gorgeous when my grandkids drink it.
Last but not least, the beautiful corks from the 1998s: brand new at 22 years old.
