2013 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

2013 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera
A wine I wouldn’t normally think to open this young, but we were invited over for ribs (socially distanced at different tables, etc.) and this seemed the most appropriate bottle on hand. Though somewhat of a gamble on such a youthful Barolo, this is an era where early approachability seems more the norm than the strict and stern wines of yesteryear. Having said that it’s of course producer/vintage/cru dependent.

True to form, this did show much softer, rounded and approachable than expected. Took a small taste a few hours before serving, and as it gave the impression it would naturally open in the glass with dinner, I just put the cork back in to save for later.

Once served for dinner it showed the classic Barolo profile, with a fairly giving nose of red rose, tar, dark cherries. Much the same in the mouth, big dark cherry fruit, somewhat floral, and creamy, it definitely had a chocolate/vanilla note that rounded the wine, and made it more accessible. Not very cloying, but enough to make me wish it were a little less. There’s good medium acidity and tannin underneath, both supporting the fruit well, and never a challenge. A trace of heat shows on the back and through its graceful finish, squarely medium in length and complexity. A wine that worked well for the occasion. More for its function and drinkability, as opposed to a deep and complex Barolo for the back of the cellar. Though one would tend to think that some added complexity may bloom with age here.

Thanks for your check in on this. I have a few of these, but buried them.

Would be curious to see if you enjoyed the '13 Casa Mate more than the Chiniera. I did not find the Chiniera to be cloying at all, and found the Casa Mate to lean too savory with not enough fruit poking out (at this young age)… maybe the Casa Mate has that deep fruit profile that may resonate more? That said, I also found both '13s to be tannic monsters.

Is this a Cru?

I think it is a subzone in Ginestra, but not on the same hill as Ciabot Mentin, Ginestra Casa Mate, Sori Ginestra, Pajana… It is right in front/below and side of the winery, with front/below being the source for Runcot I think, and side being the source for Gavarini Chiniera.

Had been curious about this for a while, was glad it worked out and gives me a better idea of how/when to open. Will probably crush a 16’ young to see how it is. Seems like it could be an early drinking Barolo as I noticed the 13’ had a bunch of glowing reviews on release.

Haven’t tried Casa Mate yet, I suppose that should be next. My tolerance for tannins is pretty high, and do expect fullish tannin with Barolo, so I normally only open to pair with meat dishes or hearty pasta. But as we know there are some producers trending more toward a Burgundy style with lighter tannin.

I tried both the '16s last week. I saw bigger difference between the Chiniera/Casa Mate for the '16s than I saw in the '13s. Both '16s were approachable/informative, although the Chiniera shut down hard after a couple hours (by then most of it was gone, so there was nothing to taste the next day) and the Casa Mate really opened up with a lot of air. I think I generally prefer Chiniera over Casa Mate, but will buy both '16s. I do wonder if you will generally prefer Casa Mate over Chiniera…

Interesting. How would you describe the difference between the '13s and '16s?

I found the '13s to both be dark, tannic with large structures, with the Chiniera having some fruit poke out vs. the Casa Mate I found to be more savory with the fruit still lurking underneath. I found the '16s much more obviously different, with the Chiniera much more obviously redder fruited/elegant to the Casa Mate which was much darker fruited/masculine. I have some TNs which I have been meaning to drop on CT but have not done so… I think another WB already dropped notes on both up there.

Has anyone had the '08 Casa Mate recently?

I bought a bottle from K&L earlier this year and I’m trying to figure out when to open it. I don’t have a ton of experience with Barolo aside from Vietti Castiglione. Planning on having it with truffle risotto at one of our favorite Italian restaurants.

Hi David - I last had the '08 Casa Mate back in February. It is an incredible wine, very dark in fruit profile and with some balsamic notes as Casa Mate often is, great richness, but still very young. Very enjoyable but think if I only had one bottle and wasn’t going to be in the market for more, I’d hold off. But then again if you haven’t had much Barolo probably interesting to taste a wine like this even if it is too young and maybe it’ll get you into it.

If you’re taking it to a restaurant, you’ll need to consider sediment. There probably isn’t that much in an '08 but nebbiolo sediment is extremely bitter, and if it’s stirred up, it can really spoil the experience. Assuming the restaurant will allow it, I’d stand it upright for a least a couple of days and decant it (or double decant it) before heading to the restaurant. An '08 Monforte Barolo should stand up fine to decanting ahead.

Thanks John and Rob for the responses and decanting advice! I think I’ll keep my hands off it for a few more years since it’s my only bottle. I’ve been itching to try a nicer nebbiollo, but want to make sure it’s showing well.

I’ve been back buying some 13 and 15’s as I search out the 16 releases. Picked up the 13 of the Casa Mate and 15 Chiniera recently. Nice to see them still at original release price.

David- had the 08 last November. It was fantastic after a short decant. I have 2 left I believe and will probably have one of them this winter.