2016 Lucas & Lewellen Brut, Santa Barbara

I got a larger than requested parcel of samples; as it wasn’t one of the wines of commercial interest, I just put it away. It’s been a good week for me by pandemic standards, haven’t had a glass of bubbles in 2+ months so pulled the cork.

This is good! Frothing from the neck, I would guess it was disgorged well under a year ago. The aromas are very primary and surprisingly intense, more green apple than forelle pear. There’s something a tiny bit smoky, don’t know where that comes from but it’s an enhancement. The palate is zingy, bucking and kicking! RS has to be well under 1%, pH not much more than 3, this is not great wine but it’s a Party Animal for sure. The finish is reasonably long indicating improvement with time. There’s not much yeast or breadth right now, but the balance and intensity are there. Rated 89.5, will probably improve a point or more when it catches its breath and calms down. Suggested retail is $36, not a bargain, but it can apparently be had for under $30, which is fairer. I’d like to try it with another ~2 – 5 years on the cork.

Dan Kravitz