TN: 2017 Clemens Busch - Pündericher Riesling Kabinett (Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer)

2017 Weingut Clemens Busch Pündericher Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (4/28/2020)
– popped and poured –
– tasted non-blind over a few hours –
– AP #: … 018 1118 –

NOSE: expressive; lime seltzer water; quinine; moderately “zesty”; medium-strong note of clover honey.

BODY: pale green-yellow color; no spritz; medium bodied.

TASTE: this wine somehow manages to have “that electric feel,” but without searing acidity – I’d put the acidity in the medium+ territory; “crunchy”; lemon – lime; powdery; probably Kabinett+ as far as sweetness goes; alc. not noticeable (8%); one of the best Kabinetts I’ve had over the past couple of years; this is truly excellent, which makes it a great QPR at $27. Will buy again.

This is an estate very much back on my radar after a bit of a gap.

And this was my first go with them. I was actually a little worried about the purchase when I read Otto’s note in CT, but my bottle showed much better than it sounds like his did. I have a 2017 GG from them pending right now, too; I’m really looking forward to that one. What bottling(s) of theirs has piqued your interest, Russell?

Brian, I’ve had a few glasses over the last years. The GGs are super popular in Berlin.

But the Auction Kabinett in 2018 was lovely and really turned my eye again. Happy to have six of those, though it’s really a Spatlese I suppose.

This is a producer I haven’t tried before. The divergent reactions from you and Otto are intriguing. I’ll definitely be on the lookout.

I respect Otto’s palate, and have no doubt his note accurately reflects what was in his glass. “Intriguing” is right — makes me wonder if Otto’s bottle had a wee bit of TCA or TBA.

An '18, huh?!? Nice. I have '18 largely written-off in my head for German Riesling — can’t remember exactly what the early reviews said that made me feel that way, but I do distinctly remember telling myself something to the effect of, “well, that’s the third year in a row.” But I can never really stop myself from buying at least a few Kabinett from each vintage.

I’ve had more disappointing experiences with Clemens-Busch than positive ones. The ones that have been good have been pretty lovely indeed, which is why I haven’t written this producer completely off. All in all it seems that the Clemens-Busch wines need +10 years to show any complexity, since mainly the disappointing wines have been young and those that have performed better have had some years under their belts. They might have wonderful acidity and good sense of minerality, but aromatically they tend to be quite mute.

Do note that the tasting note you are talking about was from out Kabinett Cup, where we taste ~40-50 Kabinetts horizontally, all fully blind. We had the previous vintage of the same wine in the 2016 Cup as well and it didn’t perform any better.

Cool. Thanks for that, Otto.