2017 Arnoux-Lachaux Horizontal

Have been wanting to taste through this lineup for a while, and finally got a chance this weekend. Several of us pitched in, and tasted the wines together over a Zoom chat in distributed (4.5 oz.) bottles poured three days in advance of the tasting.

Would have loved to have included the Suchots and Reignots but these wines are becoming ever more difficult to find. To make things more interesting a Gerard Mugneret Echezeaux was included to taste against Arnoux-Lachaux’s. With that addition we had three flights of two wines each (village flight, 1er flight, and Echezeaux) all flights were compared blind by everyone except me. In the end, each flight had a clear winner and all six of us were more or less in agreement, with the exception of the village flight where the strength of the Chambolle and all together poor showing of the Vosne lead to some confusion.

2017 Arnoux-Lachaux Chambolle Musigny
Shows a good balance of feminine and masculine character, with ample but never heavy dark red fruit (cherry pit, dark cherries, raspberry), herbs, fine spice, and a nice mineral impression. Good medium acidity throughout, with nice round tannin providing interest on the back, though not more than moderately powerful. Still, there is slightly more structure than is expected of Chambolle here, which probably lead the group to thinking this was the Vosne, together with the wines overall sense of completeness for a village. A very nice, sturdy and charming Chambolle.

2017 Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne Romanee
Checked on this an hour before the tasting, medium weight, somewhat closed with some warming spice turning to heat on the back palate. Cooled down the rest for the tasting which shut down the aromatics, but took care of the heat on the palate. Noticed a fine dusting of tannin with nice grip on the finish at one point, but the wine never showed as complete. We all kind of struggled with this one. Maybe comes together with time, as the residual drops in bottle smelled really nice the next morning. Kind of suspected the Chambolle would take this round, and it did.

2017 Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits Saint Georges 1er Les Proces Has a silky, satiny mouthfeel. Good extra layer of sap to its dark red fruit, though still with nice freshness, even a pronounced saline/mineral impression coasts through the palate. Elegant with powdery tannins on the back. However, with air came a significant iodine note that really bloomed on the nose and a bit of iron on the palate, and overall the wine became quite medicinal. After a real nice start, hard to enjoy in the end.

2017 Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne Romanee 1er Chaumes When I was first pouring the wines in to the smaller bottles, this had by far the best aromatics of the five Arnoux-Lachaux wines poured, archetypal Vosne with a certain flair and power to it, just undeniable. While those sane fireworks were somewhat withheld when we as a group got around to tasting, it was still easily one of the two wines of the night. Shows excellent, plush dark fruit, but also with nice freshness, complex spices, and a mineral component. The tannins here are silkier than the preceding wines, more ripe and saturated without a loss of freshness. Shows nice sustain and follow through on its graceful finish. Classic Vosne. Have heard the plot here is thin and vertical, running from the north to the south right in the middle of the vineyard.

2017 Gerard Mugneret Echezeaux
As beautiful as the 1er Chaumes was when first opening/pouring this was possibly even more heavenly and intoxicating. Great florals, complex spices, herbs, and freshness. I had pretty high expectations going in, and thought this would be a great heads up between the Arnoux. Though when it came time to taste, there was some rather slick new oak and vanilla flavoring that was a bit of a distraction on the palate. The brilliant aromatics weren’t really firing, and by the time the oak had integrated, it just couldn’t run with the Arnoux. Missing a bit on Grand Cru depth, complexity and completeness. Having said that, I’m pretty sure, if this were had on its own, that it would be very enjoyable. It just so happened to be served in between the two best wines of the lineup. From the Les Quartiers de Nuits climat, in a farming agreement with relatives and land owners, Mugneret-Gibourg.

2017 Arnoux-Lachaux Echezeaux
Fairly reserved aromatics both when initially poured and tasted with the group. The palate however, was a tour de force. Sinewy, lacy, and textured, but definitely better density than the Gerard Mugneret. Brilliant in how “together” this wine is, the bold but elegant blue fruit impression recalls of a lighter framed Roumier Bonne Mares. Just love the balance of sweetness, freshness, and depth to this wine. Echezeaux is known for showing itself early in its evolution and this is very much like that, though there’s also a brooding nature to this wine, with some darker fruit mixed in that promises of its excellent potential. From the Les Rouges du Bas climat. My wine of the night. Significantly better than the 14’ of this tasted a couple years ago.

This is a great write-up, thanks. My only grievance is that you missed the Hautes Mazieres!

Thanks Sean, trust me I’m bummed about not having it too. Was my original intention but a local retailer had the Vosne, whereas I would’ve had to order the H-M from a sort of unknown NY shop with rising temps.

+1! Tends to be the sweet spot for me in the range.

Thanks for the notes. I had a 2005 Arnoux-Lachaux Echezeaux earlier this year and was very pleased at the value.

Robert:

Thanks for detailed notes. How would you describe the house style now? Especially in contrast to the father’s somewhat oaky and extracted wines (which I still appreciate, for the record)?

I’ve definitely been following the Eche over the Suchots and other GC’s just because it seemed to be their best wine with decent availability and pricing all things considered. Kind of wish I’d scooped up more as that figures to be changing, but happy to have a small cache ranging from 14-17.

Matt, here’s something I wrote elsewhere that I think gives the background you’re looking for. There’s definitely a buzz around Arnoux and where the wines are going. The Domaine has been fun to watch because you have the steady hand of the prior generation (Pascal) combining with the new ideas and fire of the youthful next generation (Charles) making improvements at a fast pace. Berthaut-Gerbet is another producer in a similar spot, though without the heavy hitting holdings.

Anyhow, I’ve liked what I’ve seen from 17’ reds (whites even better) and have been really curious to try Arnoux-Lachaux’s lineup in particular as Charles Lachaux is one of the most talked about, up and coming young vignerons in Burgundy. Some say he took over in 12’ some say 14’ or 15’ but regardless, it’s common knowledge that he’s been working feverishly to get the domaines wines up to the top of the heap, and with 17’ he’s had at least a few years now to push the vineyards (emulating practices of Domaine Leroy) and cellar (significantly less new wood than his father) toward his vision.

I’m mostly just mad because it’s the one bottling I DO have (though I wish I had all of them) and wanted to get a sneak peek.

Thanks for the notes on these wines, The only 17 Lachaux I have opened was a Pinot Fin BR which was really good for its level.

Did you use the Methode Fu Bouteille?

As his lawyer, a licensing fee is in order. It will be steep.

You always want to make sure to get a good Fu fill to fulfill your small bottle needs.

Why don’t you pitch in and open one? If you follow it over multiple days it should be nice, judging by how these showed.

Not quite, as I didn’t use the methode de tube, but either way Charlie and I are in talks.