A year ago I had never heard of Elio Sandri but suddenly last autumn the name started popping up seemingly everywhere. As I was offered the wines by several retailers I did some research and quicky got excited. I’m sure there are some that would prefer this 10 000 bottle a year operation to remain a secret but I can’t help but spread the word a bit. In a very traditional style this wines offers fantastic value at 22€ a bottle. It would be probably smart to stock up while it remains so affordable.
2017 Elio Sandri Langhe Nebbiolo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (9.5.2020)
Popped and poured, enjoyed from a large Bourgogne bowl over three hours. Markedly floral and oh so pretty on the nose with notes of cherry, rose petals and tar with haunting, complex spiciness. It is not oaky at all yet it has this lovely woody nuance. There is nothing that is not supposed to be there and it is ethereal and articulate. On the palate it is medium-bodied and on the entry fairly kind but it has remarkable tannins that strengthen their grip towards the finish in a seamless manner, though without ever feeling punishing or too drying. The wine carries its 14% ABV very elegantly, there is no heat and only a little weight. A richly fruited and structured wine, this is destined for a good evolution in the cellar. The value in a very traditional style is great.
I had this just a few days ago and I agree with you - very lovely wine. Yesterday I got to try the 2014 Barolo from Sandri and loved it even more. Less fruity, lighter, more translucent. Very very nice. The 2010 Perno Riserva Vigna Disa, on the other hand, is not giving much - it was a waste to open it.
I suppose it makes sense that a young, middling vintage is approachable at this point while a Riserva from a stellar vintage is not giving much at age 10. I bought a bottle of the 2011 Riserva Perno but I reckon there is little point opening it anytime soon. Thanks for the datapoints!
On some level I get you and even share the same feeling but then even more so I really believe these small producers deserve to become famous and widely respected, even if it necessarily means increasing prices.
I also had the 2012 Perno Riserva Vigna Disa over two nights. More giving than the 2010, but not at the level of immediate pleasure of the 2014, so I would hold the 2012 as well. I also have a bottle of 2011 Riserva Perno that I am thinking of trying - I was reading somewhere that it is a favorite of Elio, so I am curious If I decide to go for it, I’ll let you know how it was.
Sandri’s 2017 Barbera is a beauty. I might as well say tell you now: it has 15° alcohol. This is becoming quite common in Piedmont; some winemakers / some wines can handle it, and Sandri seems to have it figured out – at any rate the wine isn’t hot or overblown.
Barbera is the guilty variable for the ABV. Elio is a pretty restrained producer, but in a solar year like '17 Barbera nearly everyone’s Barbera is going to hit 15 likely 15.5 or more. That said Barbera likes warm years and vintages that give stewed fruit in Nebbiolo often shine for Barbera. It is impressive that Barbera can taste fresh at 15%, well at least until you wake up the next morning. Now, on a more important note, please stop mentioning his producer.
Please do! I’ve had some 2011 Barolos that I’ve quite enjoyed so have some expectations for that one, even if it is not generally thought to be the greatest/most uniform vintage out there and apparently the alcohol levels got quite high in some places - I happen to own one bottle that states as much as 15.5% ABV on the label
If I decide to go for it, I’ll let you know how it was.