I’ve long considered myself first and foremost a Federspiel guy due to the sheer drinkability and versatility of those wines. This was a rare Smaragd in my cellar but I think it might change my buying habits to some degree. Some Smaragds in the past have been on the heavy side but this is just a stupendous bottle of Riesling with terrific balance and drinkability. I can’t even criticize the price, even if I would not routinely pay the tariff as there is so much good stuff available at half the price.
2013 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain- Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (30.4.2020)
The nose shows big intensity and depth and formidable ripeness - flashes of higher prädikats. Somewhat reductive all the same with notes of apple, pineapple and pomelo with a hint of grapefruit-esque tartness that stings the nostrils in a wonderful way. I reckon this might offer some attractive petrol notes in the future. On the palate this comes to the fore with serious volume and scale while packing absolutely massive acidity. Despite its ripeness it seems completely dry and the finish is mouth-puckering and tangy with an almost tannic sensation. This is a chiselled heavyweight with at least ten years to go before reaching its apogee. A Smaragd Riesling of the highest order.
It’s funny that for Hirtzberger, Singerriedel seems to get most of the praise, yet I almost always prefer Hochrain, which is the vineyard directly below it’s more famous counterpart. I think I still have this in the cellar, along with a few other vintages going back to 2002. And while I do like the Federspiel style in the right hands (Nikolaihof immediately comes to mind), the power of Hochrain is very impressive.
Total agreement on this wine. The 2013 Smaragds here are the best I’ve ever had, better than ‘97 and ‘99 and ’01 for example. I’m not sure anything other than another cool growing season with a clean harvest could produce such pure, nuanced, and balanced wines given the warming trends in Austria. So I’m not sure I’d generalize or revise your buying habits based on ‘13.
It’s just seems to be with this way always that one of the vineyards/bottling producer X works with is more prized than the others. It’s not like Dönnhoff’s wines from vineyards not named Hermannshöhle suck! Different strokes and all. Considering the comment after yours have you seen notable stylistic variation between the different vintages of this bottling?
Not really what I was hoping to hear but I guess I know now to look for more 13s I really had no idea there was such a vintage variation in Austria. Unfortunately the country or any of its regions get like 0.1% of the attention Burgundy or Northern Rhône get here so it’s hard to keep track.
Please do not hesitate to share some of your favorites! Apparently each and every time I drink something from Austria I say to myself “buy and drink more of these, stupid!” but yet I seem to keep opening a bottle once in every few months only.
It’s possible others have a different view. But I didn’t especially like the Hirtzberger Smaragds I‘ve tried from ‘12 and ‘14-15. I do find vintage variation.
Well I certainly appreciate you expressing your view. I probably will make some mistakes due to this fantasti bottle, perhaps did already (placed an order last night which included Alzinger’s 2018 Riesling Smaragd Ried Liebenberg and FX Pichler’s 2018 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Loibenberg), but meanwhile it’s good to have other people’s takes on the matter.
Alzinger is a different beast. The more restrained style may be able to handle a riper vintage like 2018 with more grace, but to my recollection I did try a few of the 2018 Alzingers last November or December and they were good but not as racy as usual. Maybe Hollerin and Loibenberg Smaragd. And a Durnsteiner Federspiel that I recall preferring. I don’t recall the Steinertal Smaragd being there.
While I will agree with Jayson that there is a lot of vintage variation in the Wachau, interestingly enough, the last time I tried the 2012 & 2013 Hochrain’s side-by-side, I found them pretty similar. A few years back, another Berserker and I got together for dinner with our wives and I brought the '02, '05, '12 & '13 to dinner. The '05 was definitely a stylistic outlier - a big & ripe wine with tropical fruit. I still have all four of those vintages in the cellar, so maybe I will replicate that tasting just to see how things have changed.
In terms of producers that handle riper vintages well, would definitely agree about Alzinger, and I also consider Nikolaihof to be very good in that regard. FX Pichler, not so much (at least IMO).
Yes and yes and yes. Alzinger’s style is perfect for riper vintages (and really, I love Alzinger basically always). FX Pichler’s wines are so big and ripe–but I nonetheless admit to finding them very enjoyable for what they are.
I have a love-hate relationship with Nikolaihof. I’ve had some beauties. But also too many wines that I found flat or off or uninspiring. I agree that that Nikolaihof’s reserved and elegant profile is made for riper vintages.
I would also check out Prager if you haven’t. I would say my favorite Wachau producer stylistically. I have also liked Jamek but a little bigger style than Prager and Alzinger IME.
There are some good threads on Wine Berserkers within the last 2-3 years on Austrian wines if you delve into the search function.
I have actually and - surprise surprise - also loved their wines. Exactly the style I prefer for both Gruner and Riesling. From Jamek I’ve had one, a Federspiel Riesling, which was incredibly tight and acidic yet promising.
Totally agree on Alzinger and Pichler. We really enjoy Austrian wines more than German wines at our house. Mainly because my wife likes a drier style of wine.
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I really had no idea there was such a vintage variation in Austria. Unfortunately the country or any of its regions get like 0.1% of the attention Burgundy or Northern Rhône get here so it’s hard to keep track.![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}