2015 Saint-Romain, Maison de Montille

This is a pleasant surprise, a very good wine but not what I expected. I look to Saint-Romain as a source of very good white Burgundy in an austere, mineral style, as close as the Cote de Beaune gets to Chablis. This ain’t that.
Appropriate light gold color. The aromas are surprisingly lush, with notes of green Bartlett pear, hay and honeysuckle. The palate simply has a ripeness and richness I do not expect from this Appellation, even in a ripe year like 2015. This is not a complaint. While there is nothing at all tropical about this, the richness is almost New World. If given this blind, I might have guessed Russian River Valley or even Napa. There is enough good balancing acidity so it doesn’t cloy, but it’s not far from ‘right fatty’ territory. The flavors reprise the aromas, with a touch of lemon to offset the ripe pear character. This is a lovely glass of odd Chardonnay. A singleton, IIRC I paid about $30, which is fair. Rated 90.5, probably at peak but will hold easily another year or two.

Dan Kravitz

Very interesting. I will look into this.