Earlier in our wine drinking lives, modest dry white Bordeaux (Graves, Entre deux Mers) were a staple for us. We somehow got away from them early in the new millennium when we got rerouted to the Loire and to Sancerre and to other humbler versions of Loire Sauvignon Blanc (Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois and Chidaine Touraine Blanc.) A recent glowing review of the 2017 Carbonnieux Blanc by Kirk Grant jogged my memory and my interest. I pre-ordered some of that 2017 Carbonnieux for delivery later this year and I also picked up a bottle of this wine, which also used to be one of our favorites.
The wine introduces itself with an oily mouthfeel, followed a slow and steady development of flavor and tang, finishing with an impression of Sauvignon Blanc mixed with a fuller and broader, but still dry, fruit profile. I recalled that Semillon can be a big component of some white Bordeaux and that is the situation here with 70% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, and 5% Muscadelle. Distinctly different in taste from the wines coming from Sancerre et al. I needed a sip or two to get re-acquainted, but this is very enjoyable and tasty. Another solid “any day” wine, that should have broad appeal. Generally available at $15-$20. Recommended.
Jim, is one of my favorite “textbook” Bordeaux Blancs. It is imported by Kermit Lynch, and they are represented in most States of our country. Erica & I have recently started really getting into Bordeaux Blanc. Are there any others that you’ve had that you also enjoy?
Kirk, the only other Graves Blanc that we used to drink was La Louviere. That wine is another of those “it has been too long” friends that we will have to get together with. We also used to enjoy Entre-Deux-Mers as more of an “any day” wine for us. I would say that Graves and Entre-Deux-Mers used to occupy pretty much the same position and uses in our wine drinking world as Sancerre and Loire Sauvignon Blanc do today. We might be heading towards changing that and enjoying the pleasures of both . . .
PS Andre Lurton of La Louviere, has an interest and influence in the mainstreamed Chateau Bonnet. They put their whitet out as an “Entre-Deux-Mers” though sometimes I see what looks like the same bottle without the AOC designation. In most years, this can be very good. IMO, almost any white Entre-Deux Mers that has a kind word or two written or spoken about it will also be worth checking out.
Thanks for the note Jim. Last bottle I had from this producer was a 2014 which was also quite good. I’ll have to seek out the 2018 soon.
For white Bordeaux I’ve mostly been drinking Cote-Montpezat Cuvee Compostelle Blanc, Guibon Blanc, and de Chantegrive Cuvee Caroline, although I haven’t had anything from 2018 yet.
Other than Carbonnieux and Smith Haut Lafite, both of which I think you’ve posted about, and this obvious value play, I think Chateau de Fieuzal is outstanding, and even their second wine (L’Abeille) is very good, though the latter can have more oak than some people like (top wine might have more new wood but holds it better). Domaine de Chevalier is also great, and that one apparently ages extremely well. Pape Clement is another standout for me, though I’m not sure I would spend the extra money over some of these other options. I don’t have enough experience to say that for sure. I have only ever had tasting samples of that one. Each time, it has been memorable.