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2017 Oddero Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (13.2.2020)
The grapes are sourced from a 2-hectare vineyard in La Morra averaging 15 years in age. Macerated for 15 days with the skins. Aged for a year in botti casks of different sizes. 14,5% alcohol.
Very pale, luminous and fully translucent raspberry red color. Ripe but also surprisingly brooding nose with relatively little fruit; instead there are delicate aromas of gamey meat, juicy raspberries, some gravelly minerality, light smoky notes of tar, light floral tones and a hint of blood. The wine is dead-serious, moderately full-bodied and quite muscular on the palate with dry and rather robust flavors of gravelly minerality, some sour cherries, a little bit of crunchy redcurrants, light umami notes of bloody meat, a tart hint of lingonberry and a touch of tar. The wine is quite tightly-knit with its medium-to-moderately high acidity and rather grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, grippy and quite robust with long flavors of crunchy cranberries and astringent lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, light gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of smoke and tar, a hint of raw meat and a touch of savory wood spice. The high alcohol makes the wine end on a somewhat warm note.
A robust, sinewy and dead-serious Langhe Nebbiolo from the more impressive end of the spectrum, coming across as more of a baby Barolo than a leftover Nebbiolo. Firmly structured with very dry overall character that does not really emphasize fruit as much as it does the savory non-fruit tones. It is not particularly complex this young and the alcohol is a bit on the high side, but its unapologetic, robust character feels very attractive to me and it definitely shows good potential for future development, so hopefully this’ll become something even better with age. (89 pts.)
Surprisingly pale, thin and fully translucent garnet red color; slightly darker than the color of vintage 2016 tasted alongside. Very ripe, sweet-toned and fruity nose with aromas of juicy red cherries, some strawberries, a little bit of cranberry juice, light gravelly mineral tones and a hint of earthy spice. The wine is quite big and full-bodied on the palate with juicy flavors of black raspberries, some sweet black cherries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light gamey tones, a bretty hint of leathery funk and a sanguine touch of bloody meat. The texture is silky yet pretty firm with the medium-to-moderately high acidity and ample but quite gentle medium tannins. The finish is long, somewhat grippy and slightly warm with flavors of redcurrants, some sour cherry bitterness, light black cherry tones, a hint of bloody game and a touch of dried aromatic herbs.
A very ripe, fruity and tasty Nebbiolo, but ultimately a bit on the soft and mellow side. The wine has nice sense of depth and character, but shows more fruit and alcohol than finesse and restraint. While is a bit modest in the acid and tannin department, this vintage is still more structured than the round and gentle 2016 Nebbiolo d’Alba. This is an accessible and very fruit-forward Nebbiolo for immediate consumption. It might not only keep, but develop over a handful of years more, but I really don’t see much point in that, since the overall style seems to emphasize the early-drinking qualities of this wine. Good, but nothing truly memorable. (86 pts.)
Very pale, fully translucent and beautifully luminous pinkish ruby color with a wide, colorless rim. Even more pale than the already pale vintage 2017 that was tasted alongside this. Very big, fragrant and floral nose with seductive aromas of rose petals, raspberry marmalade, some medicinal notes of aromatic herbs, a little bit of strawberry, a hint of ripe red plums and a smoky touch of tar. The wine is broad, full-bodied and quite mellow on the palate with a silky mouthfeel and rich flavors of ripe raspberries and strawberries, some gravelly minerality, a little bit of sanguine iron, light sweet notes of marmaladey dark berries, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of gamey meat. The high alcohol makes the wine feel noticeably warm and slightly boozy, while the firm tannins lend some noticeable grip on the gums. However, the wine feels slightly soft and lackluster due to its modest, soft acidity. The finish is ripe, rather hot and quite tannic with juicy, sweet-toned flavors of soft strawberries and ripe redcurrants, some gravelly minerality, a little bit of leathery funk, a bitter hint of sour cherries and a touch of raspberry marmalade.
A super-rich and surprisingly soft Nebbiolo with tons of very ripe, sweet-toned fruit and quite a bit of grippy tannins, but rather little in the way of balance. The wine is impressively big and fruity, but it isn’t nearly enough to mask away the boozy alcohol that would be more appropriate in a Priorat or a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, not a Nebbiolo d’Alba. Furthermore, the wine is lacking in acidity quite a bit, making the rich fruit feel a little blowzy and jammy. While I enjoyed the noticeably tannic grip here, I must say I preferred the more balanced vintage 2017 over this one. (84 pts.)
Translucent, luminous and rather youthful black cherry color. Enjoyably funky and meaty nose with aromas of sweet raspberries, bretty leather, some black cherries, a little bit of savory exotic spices, light floral notes of roses and a sweet, liqueur-ish hint of volatile lift. The wine is juicy, moderately full-bodied and quite ripe on the palate with very dry and savory flavors of brambly black raspberries, gamey meat, some sour cherries, a little bit of wild strawberries, light licorice tones, bretty hints of leather and phenolic spice and a touch of cherry marmalade. The overall feel is firm yet velvety smooth with the moderately high acidity and ample yet supple and textural tannins. The finish is long, somewhat grippy and very juicy with dry flavors of fresh cranberries, game, some sweet black cherries, a little bit of wild strawberry, light bretty notes of leather and phenolic spice and a hint of gravelly minerality.
A beautiful, harmonious and very accessible Nebbiolo that might lack the sturdy frame and intensity of a true Barolo or Barbaresco, but performs markedly better than your run-of-the-mill Langhe Nebbiolos in terms of sheer depth and complexity. Wonderfully drinkable right now, but based on its very youthful overall feel, I can imagine this will continue to develop for a handful of years more. However, this doesn’t feel as ageworthy as many true Barolo and Barbaresco wines, so I wouldn’t stash this away in a cellar for ages. A very gratifying wine for a mere entry-level Nebbiolo. (90 pts.)
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2017 Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (13.2.2020)
The fruit is sourced from old Vigna del Castello vineyard in Sinio, outside the Barolo region, but some lots from Vigna del Pozzo in Castiglone Falletto in the Barolo region are blended in. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, macerated with the skins for 2 weeks. Aged first for 8 months in stainless steel and then for a further year in large Slavonian oak casks. 14% alcohol.
Quite translucent black cherry color with brick-red highlights. The nose feels ripe, juicy and rather brooding with sweet-toned aromas of black cherry marmalade, some fragrant strawberry tones, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of ripe dark-toned fruits and a touch of savory spices. While the nose feels sweet, it never comes across as jammy or too ripe. The wine is surprisingly lean, tough and structured on the palate with medium body and dry, sinewy flavors of stony minerality, sour cherry bitterness, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of sweeter wild strawberry, light sanguine notes of iron and a hint of brambly raspberry. The structure relies equally much on the high acidity and firm, assertive and grippy tannins. The high alcohol lends a bit of warmth to the palate. The finish is dry, tannic and grippy with dry, focused flavors of ripe cranberries, some sanguine iron, a little bit of gamey meat, light smoky tones, a hint of tart lingonberry and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The high alcohol makes the wine finish on a somewhat warm note.
A very impressive, muscular and structured Langhe Nebbiolo that could easily work as a stand-in for a true Barolo. The overall feel is still quite youthful and as the general style is very high-strung and structure-driven, the wine certainly isn’t showing its best yet. However, you can taste that this is a rather ambitious effort, feeling more like a Barolo or Barbaresco made from grapes outside the appellations, than a “baby Barolo” that is made from grapes not good enough for the real thing. Most likely needs another 8-12 years before hitting its drinking window and probably peaking only after 15-20 years. Although the wine is pretty ripe and the high alcohol shows at times, the acidity feels remarkably high for the vintage and keeps it all together pretty effortlessly. Fantastic old-school stuff. (92 pts.)
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2016 Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (13.2.2020)
The fruit is sourced from old Vigna del Castello vineyard in Sinio, outside the Barolo region, but some lots from Vigna del Pozzo in Castiglone Falletto in the Barolo region are blended in. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, macerated with the skins for 2 weeks. Aged first for 8 months in stainless steel and then for a further year in large Slavonian oak casks. 14% alcohol.
Quite translucent black cherry color with brick-red highlights. Ripe, rather meaty and somewhat sweet nose with dark-toned aromas of strawberries, juicy dark plums, some cherry marmalade, a little bit of boysenberry, light earthy tones, a hint of savory spice and a touch of blueberry jam. The wine is dense, full-bodied and quite muscular on the palate with a silky texture and ripe yet dry flavors of cranberry, sour cherry bitterness, some meaty umami, a little bit of wild strawberry, light sanguine notes of iron, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of tar. The wine is quite high in acidity with rather strong and grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, grippy and rather tough with flavors of bloody meat, sour cherry bitterness, some tart lingonberries, light notes of smoke and tar, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of brambly black raspberry,
A very tough, serious and tightly-knit Langhe Nebbiolo that is built more like a lighter Barbaresco or Barolo than what is normally associated with the more accessible Langhe Nebbiolo style. Perhaps slightly less impressive and minimally more accessible than the vintage 2017 that was tasted alongside, but nevertheless a terrific effort. Very stern and ageworthy old-school stuff that punches way above its weight. Requires lots of air and food hearty enough to tame that structure, if opened now. Will reward longer cellaring. Recommended. (91 pts.)
Dark, luminous and somewhat translucent black cherry color with a thin, colorless rim. Sweet, ripe and rich yet not jammy nose with seductive, somewhat Barolo-ish aromas of black cherries and juicy raspberries, some peppery spice, light succulent notes of dark plums, a little bit of savory spice and a floral hint of roses. The wine is dry, medium-bodied and very textural on the palate with intense flavors of stony minerality, sanguine notes of iron, some ripe cranberries, a little bit of wild strawberry, light gamey tones, a bitter hint of sour cherries and a tangy touch of red apple. The structure and intensity come more from the crunchy, high acidity, whereas the moderately grippy medium tannins keep the firm and sturdy. The finish is gently grippy with long, savory flavors of game, cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, light licorice root tones, a little bit of dried spicy herbs and a hint of stony minerality.
A pure and harmonious but also very tough and high-toned Langhe Nebbiolo that is built more like a Barolo. Quite stern and uncompromising in style, yet still not austere in any way; on the contrary, the wine is full of fruit and character. Definitely built for the long haul and most likely isn’t going to show its best at least over the next handful of years. While the tannins really don’t necessarily call for further aging to soften up, the overall feel is still so tightly-knit and nervous that a few hours of air or pairing with heavy food will make this wine perform much better now. Wonderfully unapologetic old-school stuff. Expect the score to go up with age. (89 pts.)
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2016 Massimo Clerico Coste della Sesia Ca’ du Leria - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (13.2.2020)
A blend of Nebbiolo (50%), Croatina (30%) and Vespolina (20%). The grapes are sourced from Vigna Leria, a vineyard situated right next to the historical cellars of the domaine. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Aged for a year in old, neutral oak barrels. 13% alcohol.
Brooding, translucent black ruby color. Complex and quite sweetly-spiced nose with aromas of cloves, sweet black cherries, some earthy tones and dusty old wood, a little bit of ripe dark berries, light lifted notes of VA, a brambly hint of blackberries and a touch of sappy herbal spice. The wine is dry, clean and fresh on the palate with medium body and precise, delicate flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of bloody meat, light stony mineral tones and a hint of licorice root. The wine is very high in acidity with quite gentle, textural medium tannins. The finish is dry, bitter and gently grippy with fresh flavors of sour cherries, crunchy cranberries, some sanguine notes of iron, a little bit of tart lingonberries, light gravelly mineral tones, a sappy hint of dried herbs and a touch of earth.
A wonderfully fresh, poised and delicate Alto Piemonte red. Not an “impressive” red in any way, if one considers only big, extracted and intense wines qualifying for being impressive. On the other hand, this is just fresh, delicate and stylistically even slightly backward, emphasizing finesse, precision and bright, high-toned fruit over stern structure and extraction. Drinking pretty well right now, but definitely could benefit from at least a few years in a cellar. A very enjoyable effort for an entry-level red. (88 pts.)
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2013 Massimo Clerico Lessona Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (13.2.2020)
100% Nebbiolo from Vigna Gaja planted in 1970. Aged for at least 30 months in French oak barrels. 13% alcohol.
Luminous, very translucent and quite pale raspberry red color with a brick-orange hue. Dry and very restrained nose with subdued, fine-tuned aromas of raspberries, some wild strawberry, a little bit of sun-baked stone, light earthy spices and a light yet distinctive hint of spicy red apple. The wine is light-to-medium-bodied, very acid-driven and bone-dry on the palate with somewhat lean overall feel. Crunchy flavors of cranberries, sour cherries, some stony minerality, a little bit of leathery funk, light tart notes of dark forest fruits, a hint of game and a touch of rowanberry. As much as I love high acidity, the acidity here feels a bit too high for the lean, light fruit. The medium tannins feel somewhat grippy, but not tough or aggressive. The finish is dry, long and slightly grippy with intense, crunchy flavors of tart lingonberries, some sanguine iron, a little bit of cranberry, light stony mineral tones and a hint of dried aromatic herbs.
A rather subdued, lean and understated Lessona with tons of acidity but surprisingly in the way of fruit. We were wondering whether the style of this wine is this austere, or if the wine was just caught in an awkward and somewhat dumb phase. Overall the wine came across pretty underwhelming, so here’s to the hopes this wine would open up if given some age. No hurries with this one. (85 pts.)
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2015 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (13.2.2020)
A blend of organically farmed Nebbiolo (95%) and Vespolina (5%). Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Macerated with the skins for 30 days. Aged for 2 years in used (2nd and 3rd use) oak tonneaux. 13% alcohol.
Youthful and dark ruby color with surprisingly little translucency. Big, ripe and quite sweet-toned nose with aromas of juicy black cherries, some fragrant blackcurrant tones, a little bit of strawberry, light brambly notes blackberry and a mineral hint of stone dust. The wine is medium-bodied, fresh and very acid-driven on the palate with slightly closed flavors of tart lingonberries, crunchy redcurrants, some fresh blackcurrants, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of earth. The wine is very balanced and structured with its noticeably high acidity and firm, textural medium tannins, but somehow the overall feel is somewhat dull and lacking vibrancy. The fruit is very pure here and the noticeably high acidity lends the wine some really nice freshness, but it still feels like it is lacking some precision. The finish is dry, moderately tannic and somewhat earthy with quite long flavors of crunchy cranberries, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of dried savory herbs and a touch of smoke.
An enjoyably crunchy and acid-driven Alto Piemontese red, but somehow it never really manages to captivate me. There’s some sort of dullness and lack of vibrancy to the fruit here, despite the fresh overall feel. It’s quite impossible to put finger on it, since this wine is so similar to the vintage 2014 that was tasted alongside this, but while this was somewhat underwhelming and insipid, the 2014 vintage was just gorgeous. I really don’t know what is/was going on here, but based on this experience, I’d either skip this vintage and concentrate on the surrounding ones or then I’d let the wine get enough age to get over this sulky period. (83 pts.)
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2014 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (13.2.2020)
A blend of organically farmed Nebbiolo (95%) and Vespolina (5%). Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Macerated with the skins for 30 days. Aged for 2 years in used (2nd and 3rd use) oak tonneaux. 13% alcohol.
Youthful, translucent ruby red color. Dry, fresh and somewhat restrained nose with fine-tuned aromas of redcurrants, some earthy spice, light floral notes of rose petals, a little bit of meaty character, hints of black raspberries and wizened dark forest fruits and a touch of rose hips. The wine is dry, tough and somewhat bitter on the palate with medium body and pure, crunchy flavors of sour cherries and dark forest fruits, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of crunchy redcurrants, light sanguine notes of iron, a mineral hint of sun-baked stone and a touch of dried savory herbs. Overall the wine is wonderfully balanced and structured with its high acidity and firm, textural medium tannins. The finish is dry and gently grippy with quite long flavors of sour cherries, some ripe cranberries, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light notes of bloody meat, a hint of stony minerality and a spicy touch of dried herbs.
A beautifully fresh, tough and uncompromising Alto Piemontese red with wonderful sense of focus and purity. Stylistically almost identical with the vintage 2015 that was tasted alongside, but while that wine felt somewhat dull and lacking in focus, this vintage performed with flying colors. This is pretty much exactly what one would look for in an Alto Piemonte red. With enough air this is drinking really well right now, but it is built for the long haul; most likely this will hit its peak only after 10-15 years of further cellaring. Very gratifying stuff. Expect the rating to go up as the wine ages. (93 pts.)
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2015 Colombera & Garella Bramaterra Cascina Cottignano - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Bramaterra (13.2.2020)
A blend of organically farmed Nebbiolo (70%), Croatina (20%) and Vespolina (10%) from volcanic soils. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Macerated with the skins for 18 days. Aged for 2 years in an used 6200-liter Slavonian oak botti. 13% alcohol. Total production 3500 bottles.
Pale, translucent and luminous ruby red color. Ripe and sunny yet not particularly sweet nose with aromas of black cherry, some blackcurrant, a little bit of sun-baked stones, light blueberry tones and a floral hint of roses. The wine is ripe, medium-bodied and somewhat angular on the palate with dry, crunchy flavors of tart lingonberries, some cranberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light darker-toned notes of blackcurrants and crowberries, a sanguine hint of iron and a touch of redcurrant. The wine is high in acidity with firm, stern and rather grippy tannins. The finish is long, moderately tannic and quite acid-driven with dry flavors of sour cherries, tart lingonberries, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light notes of dried herbs, a hint of smoke and a floral touch of rose.
A nice, fresh and positively rough Alto Piemontese red. Not a particularly accessible wine with its almost ripping acidity, tough tannins and moderately bitter fruit - yet the wine manages to be quite delicate at the same time with some attractive sense of finesse. Overall the wine seems to be a bit awkward at the moment, showing more potential for future development than immediate accessibility. Most likely the wine needs just some time to sand out a bit of that roughness from the edges and make the pieces fit better together. The wine has its charms, but they might not be that obvious yet due to its very tightly-wound nature. Let it wait for +10 years and this will be a whole nother beauty. (87 pts.)
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2014 Colombera & Garella Bramaterra Cascina Cottignano - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Bramaterra (13.2.2020)
A blend of organically farmed Nebbiolo (70%), Croatina (20%) and Vespolina (10%) from volcanic soils. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Macerated with the skins for 18 days. Aged for 2 years in an used 6200-liter Slavonian oak botti. 13% alcohol. Total production 3500 bottles.
Translucent and luminous ruby red color; slightly darker than the vintage 2015 that was tasted alongside. Very attractive, perfumed nose with fine-tuned aromas of rose petals and boysenberries, some fresh red cherries, a little bit of raspberry jam, light spicy notes of earthy herbs, a stony hint of minerality and a touch of rose hips. The wine is dry, textural and juicy on the palate with medium body and crunchy flavors of sour cherries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of red currants, light blueberry tones, a hint of wild strawberries and a touch of iron. The wine is surprisingly robust and - perhaps counterintuivitely - positively tough and austere with its remarkably high acidity and quite assertive, grippy tannins. While very structured and tightly-knit, the structure never seems to be at odds with the lighter body. The finish is sinewy, tannic and grippy with long, high-toned flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of wild strawberry, light iron notes of blood, a hint of tar and a touch of dried herbs.
A ridiculously young, tightly-knit and rather tough Alto Piemonte red, but also one that is very harmonious and seductive with its fine-tuned, layered aromas and flavors of wonderful freshness and purity. Although the wine is equally stern and forbidding as the vintage 2015, still requiring years before starting to become more accessible, this wine is hugely more impressive and engaging now, at the age of 5 years. It might work quite well now, if paired with food that could tone down that intense combination of acidity and tannins, but definitely will be much better if just left in a cellar for another 10-15 years. A very fetching wine, second only to the lovely 2014 Colombera & Garella Pizzaguerra. (92 pts.)
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2015 Muraje Kraema - Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola (13.2.2020)
The very first commercial vintage of this producer. “Muraje” refers to the walls which form the terraces on which the vines grow. The grapes come from the appellation of Carema, but since the wine is not vinified within the appellation, but instead at La Piane in Boca, it cannot be called Carema; hence, “Kraema”. A blend of Nebbiolo (90%) and Neyret, Pugnet and Ner d’Ala for the remainder. Fermented spontaneously in concrete tanks, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks, aged for a year in old oak barrels. Lot 6-17, bottle #833 of total 972 bottles produced. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale, youthful pomegranate color with a thin, colorless rim. Sweet, perfumed and very attractive nose with complex aromas of wild strawberries and floral notes of violets, some raspberry marmalade, a little bit of funky animale character, light juicy notes of sweet black raspberries, a lifted hint of sweet balsamic VA and a touch of stony minerality. The wine is ripe, juicy and textural on the palate with moderately light-to-medium body and vibrant, bone-dry flavors of ripe red cherries and redcurrants, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light notes of baking spices light cardamom and cloves, a hint of cool stony minerality and a bretty touch of farmhouse funk. The high acidity makes the wine feel wonderfully crunchy and precise while the sophisticated medium tannins lends nice firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is bone-dry, crunchy and gently grippy with cool flavors of cranberries, some sour cherries, a little bit of bretty leather, light iron notes of blood, a hint of tar and a touch of barnyard.
A very attractive, delicate and crunchy Nebbiolo-driven blend that shows great sense of place with its relatively light body, bone-dry fruit and cool, mineral overtones, all typical of Carema. The wine is slightly funkier than either Produttori di Carema’s or Ferrando’s wines, but also shows more complexity than the entry-level wines of Produttori and slightly more ripeness and power than the white label of Ferrando. The style here is very youthful and definitely promising great aging potential. All in all, a very promising effort from this new producer. I’m really looking forward to tasting this producer’s first real DOC Carema wine, which is supposed to be the 2017 vintage. (93 pts.)
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