Last January a nebbiolophile friend of mine arranged a blind tasting on the recent vintages of Barbaresco. Apart from the traditional-leaning Ca’ del Baio, all these wines should be very old-school in style with many having heavy emphasis on natural/hands-off winemaking. The wines were decanted for about an hour to hour and a half prior to tasting and tasted in a fully randomized order.
This was a remarkable tasting in the sense that very rarely I get to taste this many wines at one go that are so consistently of excellent quality - especially when taken into account that all the tasted wines were very young Barbareschi! My score range might not be that striking for one accustomed to the (rather inflated) scores handed by American wine critics, but I prefer to rate wines using the full 50-point scale, meaning that in this tasting even the wines with the lowest points fared remarkably well.
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2013 Cascina Roccalini Barbaresco Roccalini - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
A traditionalist and minimal-interventionist Barbaresco: fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in concrete, macerated for a whopping 60 days by keeping the cap submerged in wine (no punch-downs or pump-overs). Aged for 18 months in large, +2000-liter oak casks. Bottled without fining or filtration and with minimum effective sulfites (25-30 mg/l). 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite translucent and slightly dull ruby red color with a pale brick-orange rim. Very open, dark-toned and somewhat earthy nose with layered and subtly sweet-toned aromas of sweet raspberries, some red cherries, a little bit of leathery funk, light salty liquorice tones, a hint of varnish and a touch of lifted, floral and slightly balsamic character. Very seductive overall feel. The wine is dry, firm and quite ripe on the palate with medium-to-moderately full body and complex, layered flavors of crunchy cranberries, sour cherry bitterness, some brambly raspberry tones, light funky undertones of leather, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a sanguine hint of iron and a lifted touch of balsamic VA. Silky and textural yet remarkably firm mouthfeel with impressive structure, thanks to the rather high acidity and ripe yet very ample tannins that at first feel quite gentle, then rapidly pile up on the gums. The finish is rather tannic and grippy with remarkably long flavors of sour cherries, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light sanguine notes of iron, a hint of gravelly minerality and a sweet, lifted touch of VA.
A beautiful, harmonious and very nuanced young Barbaresco that is quite accessible already, but is still rather tightly-knit now with its pretty assertive tannins and quite pronounced sour cherry bitterness. Consistently some of the greatest young Barbaresco wines I know. Tons of promise here; while very delightful at the moment, the wine will in all likelihood be even better than this if given enough time to gain further depth and complexity. Exceptional value at 24,90€. (94 pts.)
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2015 Serafino Rivella Barbaresco Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Macerated with the skins for 4 weeks. Aged in large botti casks for 30-40 months, followed by 18 months in bottles. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Beautifully luminous, translucent and still quite youthful raspberry red color with the slightest pink hue. Somewhat restrained but also very nuanced nose with fragrant, sweet-toned aromas of licorice, juicy figs, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light smoky tones, a hint of raspberry marmalade and a touch of blackberry jam. The wine is silky, moderately full-bodied and very dry on the palate with very intense flavors of ripe dark fruits, some gravelly minerality, a little bit of red plummy fruit, light umami notes of raw meat, a hint of sanguine iron and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The wine is quite high in acidity with ample and rather assertive tannins that make the wine feel pretty grippy. The finish is spicy, tannic and slightly warm with long, powerful flavors of black cherries, peppery spice, some gravelly minerality, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light gamey notes of umami, a sweet hint of figs and a touch of dried roses.
A very muscular, serious and rather tough Barbaresco that shows some obvious ripeness that is to be expected of a 2015 Barbaresco, but all in all the wine is not nearly as soft, jammy and accessible as so many 2015 Nebbiolos I’ve tasted have been. My guess was a non-interventionist Barbaresco from 2013, so I was very astonished to learn that this was a 2015 instead. The wine carries its ripeness and sweet-toned fruit flavors with remarkable grace and the overall feel is quite tightly-knit and even slightly aggressive at the moment, all things considered. Utterly delicious although still a bit too tough at the moment; shows remarkable potential for future development. Easily some of the most impressive 2015 Nebbiolos I’ve tasted. Really delivers for the price at 50€. (93 pts.)
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2016 Cascina Roccalini Barbaresco Roccalini - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
A traditionalist and minimal-interventionist Barbaresco: fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in concrete, macerated for a whopping 60 days by keeping the cap submerged in wine (no punch-downs or pump-overs). Aged for 18 months in large, +2000-liter oak casks. Bottled without fining or filtration and with minimum effective sulfites (25-30 mg/l). 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Exceptionally luminous, translucent and rather dark ruby red color with a deep core. Big, sweet-toned and quite brooding nose with ripe aromas of black raspberries, some leathery funk, a little bit of sweet allspice, light licorice root tones, a slightest hint of balsamic VA and a touch of dried flowers. The wine is ripe, quite full-bodied and juicy on the palate with dark-toned flavors of strawberries, succulent dark plums, some cherry marmalade, light meaty umami tones, a little bit of boysenberry marmalade, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of earthy spice. Wonderful purity of fruit. Moderately high in acidity with ripe and surprisingly gentle tannins - especially for Roccalini. The finish is rich, silky and rather sweet-toned with quite modest tannic grip and medium-long flavors of cherry marmalade, some licorice, a little bit of ripe strawberry, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of raw meat. The high alcohol makes the wine end on a somewhat warm note.
A very ripe, vibrant and pure Barbaresco with some obvious ripeness and quite gentle tannins for a Nebbiolo. The latter characteristic surprised me quite a bit when the bottles were revealed - I’ve used to Roccalini wines being very tannic and tightly-knit in style, whereas this was surprisingly soft and accessible for both their style and for a Barbaresco in general. Perhaps a bit too warm, ripe and sweet-toned to hit my sweet spot, but nevertheless an attractive, lush and vibrant Nebbiolo made in a fruity, transparent style. Perhaps not going to be as long-lived as Roccalini Barbaresco’s earlier iterations. Priced according to its quality at 31,90€. (90 pts.)
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2016 Cascina delle Rose Barbaresco Tre Stelle - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
An organic Barbaresco from the Tre Stelle Cru. Macerated with the skins for three weeks. Aged in large (1000-2000 liters) Slavonian oak botti casks of for 18 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Brooding, dark black cherry color that permits only very little light through. Very ripe and brooding nose with dark-toned aromas of plums, black cherries, some blueberry-and-raspberry jam, a little bit of gamey meat, light spicy notes of clove and roasted exotic spices and a hint of earthy smoke. The wine is ripe, full-bodied and balanced on the palate with juicy flavors of black cherries, some marmaladey dark fruit, a little bit of leather, light plummy tones, a sappy hint of raspberry leaf tea and a sanguine touch of bloody meat. The wine might show some obvious ripeness, but it is also wonderfully structured with its quite high acidity and ample, ripe tannins that bring some wonderful firmness to the mouthfeel and slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is moderately grippy and somewhat drier compared to the midpalate with flavors of sour cherries, stony minerality, some blood, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light notes of red plums, a hint of earthy spices and a touch of cherry marmalade.
A sophisticated, tasty and tasty Barbaresco that feels noticeably ripe, but also one that carries its ripeness and the resulting sweet-toned flavors with ease. The wine never once comes across as soft or blowzy, and while the fruit flavors are verging on marmaladey sweetness, the wine doesn’t really come across as jammy, thanks to the impressive structure and lean, mineral core. Still very youthful in style and seems to be more about future potential than immediate pleasure. Although drinking quite good now, this wine will definitely benefit from further aging. Let it wait for another 3-5 years for some further integration of flavors, or a few decades for a proper, well-aged Nebbiolo. Lovely stuff. Expect the score to go up with age. (92 pts.)
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2013 Cascina Roccalini Barbaresco Riserva Roccalini - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
A traditionalist and minimal-interventionist Barbaresco: fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in concrete, macerated for a whopping 60 days by keeping the cap submerged in wine (no punch-downs or pump-overs). This Riserva is made only in good enough vintages. Aged for 24 months in large oak casks. Bottled without fining or filtration and with minimum effective sulfites (25-30 mg/l). 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, luminous and very translucent raspberry red color with a light pink rim. Big and sweet - borderline jammy - yet surprisingly robust nose of strawberry jam, wizened dark plums, some dried figs, a little bit of balsamic VA, light licorice tones, a hint of peppery spice and a touch of campfire smoke. The wine is quite full-bodied, juicy and quite mellow on the palate with dry-ish flavors of ripe dark berries and sweet black cherries, some stony minerality, a little bit of blackberry marmalade, light gravelly tones, a hint of smoke and a touch of brambly raspberry. The wine feels quite soft with its medium-to-moderately high acidity and ripe, textural medium tannins. The finish is somewhat grippy, slightly warm and quite long with flavors of raspberries, sour cherries, some ripe blackberries, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a bright hint of tart red plums and a touch of strawberry jam.
A big, soft and accessible Barbaresco. Although the wine is lower in alcohol than the previous iteration, 2011, which clocked at whopping 15%, this version feels otherwise bigger and more ripe with its slightly sweeter-toned fruit and noticeably softer, mellow tannins. The wine is certainly very approachable now, but, conversely, doesn’t seem to hold such aging potential one would wish from a Riserva Barbaresco. Although not a bad wine in any way, this was still something of a disappointment, since the regular Roccalini 2013 is one of the greatest young Barbarescos I know. This feels just a bigger, sweeter and softer - and thus somewhat underwhelming - version of that magnificent wine. (88 pts.)
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2015 Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Roncagliette - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Organic. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated for 60 days with the skins. Aged for approximately 20 months in old Slavonian oak bottis. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Noticeably translucent yet quite dark raspberry red color. Wild, characterful and intense nose with lots of everything. Expressive aromas of fresh raspberries, some raisiny tones, light aldehydic notes of green apple, a little bit of ripe red cherry, a green hint of birch leaves and a spicy touch of white pepper. The wine is ripe, chewy and moderately full-bodied on the palate with bold, juicy flavors of fresh, brambly raspberries, ripe red cherries, some aldehydic notes of green apples, light stony mineral tones, a hint of leafy greenness and a touch of darker fruit. The wine is high in acidity with very ample and firm, yet not aggressively grippy tannins. The finish is quite grippy and somewhat aldehydic with long, firm flavors of licorice, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light red apple tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of tangy salinity.
A very fresh, bright and impressively structured old-school Barbaresco - especially for one from the warm 2015 - but this time around the wine showed a slightly Fino Sherry-like streak of aldehydic greenness, which introduced some understated nuanced of apple slices, leafy greenness and salinity to the wine. There’s a lot to like here - I especially enjoyed the well-managed tannins here: they really are ample and they offer lots of firmness, grip and chewy texture to the wine, yet the wine never once feels aggressively astringent or too tough. However, I suspect this bottle might’ve seen a bit too much oxygen for its own good, resulting in that Fino-like note of acetaldehyde, which takes its toll on the enjoyability. Were this bottle in pristine condition, it would’ve been easily a 92-94 pointer, but with these sappy green tones the wine unfortunately doesn’t get full points this time. (89 pts.)
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2016 Ca’ del Baio Barbaresco Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks using the submerged cap method for 60 days. Aged for 24 months in oak, partly in large oak botti casks and partly in French oak tonneaux. 15% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dark yet moderately translucent dark ruby red color. Big, quite sweet and rather brooding nose with open, dark-toned aromas of black cherry marmalade and strawberry jam, some licorice, light toasty oak tones, a little bit of gamey meat, a lifted hint of balsamic VA and a touch of roses. The wine is moderately full-bodied, juicy and textural on the palate with intense, dry flavors of red plums, ripe raspberries, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of licorice, light toasty oak notes of mocha and bittersweet dark chocolate, a hint of peppery spice and a touch of gamey meat. The combination of rather high acidity and very ample, firm tannins that slowly pile up on the gums make the wine feel very balanced and structured, while keeping the sweeter edge of the fruit nicely in check. The finish is dry, long and quite tannic with vibrant, ripe flavors of sour cherries, some brambly raspberries, a little bit of ripe cranberries, light savory wood tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of sweet, toasty oak spice. The high alcohol makes the wine end on a somewhat warm note.
A very impressive, bold and structured Barbaresco with very firm and tactile presence. In a blind Barbaresco tasting where a huge majority of the tasted wines were old-school wines aged exclusively in large oak botti casks, this wine stood out like a sore thumb with its oak aromatics. However, that is not to say this wine was particularly oaky, since it certainly wasn’t. The oak use here feels quite judicious and the woodier tones feel still somewhat noticeable mainly because the wine is still so young. Although I prefer Barbareschi with lower alcohol levels and no noticeable oak presence, this wine came across as surprisingly impressive amidst all the traditionalist wines, all things considered. It is all about future promise and just needs some more aging to drop some of its baby fat and integrate those oak notes with the fruit. Stunning value at ~25€. Recommended - if you can keep your hands off the wine for another 9-12 years. (92 pts.)
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2016 Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Starderi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Organic. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated for 60 days with the skins. Aged for approximately 20 months in old Slavonian oak bottis. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Rather pale and very translucent youthful ruby red color with a broad, colorless rim. Crunchy, clean and fresh nose with aromas of blood, sweet red cherries, some ripe raspberries, a little bit of dusty earth, light gravelly minerality and nuances of sun-baked rocks, a hint of crunchy lingonberry and a touch of savory spices. The wine is silky on the palate with medium-to-moderately full body and dry flavors of ripe cranberries, brambly raspberries, some fresh black cherries, a little bit of gamey meat and umami, light earthy tones and a hint of licorice root. As the wine isn’t particularly big and burly, the alcohol warmth peeks a bit through. Wonderfully high in acidity with firm, chewy and well-managed tannins that bring tons of structure to the wine without making it feel aggressively grippy. The finish is savory, somewhat grippy and lengthy with dry flavors of meaty umami, sweet black cherries, some tart red plums, a little bit of bloody game, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of tart lingonberry and a sweeter touch of ripe blackberry.
A bright, fresh and vibrant Barbaresco with wonderful purity of fruit. I’d say it is surprisingly approachable for an old-school Barbaresco that is this young, but on the other hand, the wine shows quite a bit of potential for further development as well. A textbook example of the new paradigm of Nebbiolo: wines that are very accessible already in their youth, yet reward prolonged cellaring as well. This doesn’t scream for any further aging as it is drinking so wonderfully now, but I have no doubts this will be even more seductive, if it gets to see its 10th birthday. Despite being so very lovely, I’m still not certain if the wine is actually worth its price at 55-60€, though. (92 pts.)
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2016 Piero Busso Barbaresco Mondino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Grapes sourced from the Mondino plot located in the Balluri vineyard in Neive. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel. Aged for 18 months in large oak botti and further 6 months in bottles before release. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite pale, youthful and beautifully luminous ruby red color. Surprisingly restrained and nondescript nose with vague, brooding aromas of sweet black cherries, some balsamic VA, a little bit of gamey meat, light blueberry tones, a hint of alcohol and sweet liqueur-ish character and a touch of sweet yet earthy autumnal forest floor. The wine feels ripe and full-bodied but also somewhat restrained on the palate with slightly reticent flavors of brambly raspberries, blood, some ripe black cherries, a little bit of astringent rowanberry character, light plum liqueur tones and a lifted hint of balsamic VA. High in acidity with firm, grippy tannins and rather pronounced alcohol heat. The finish is dry, rather grippy and quite hot with savory flavors of earth, roasted spices, some black raspberries, a little bit of gamey meat, light smoky tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of sour cherry.
A classically built old-school Barbaresco that feels surprisingly reticent for the typically more expressive style of Piero Busso. I wonder if the wine was just caught in an awkward phase? It is definitely very lovely, but even with air it doesn’t become particularly impressive due to its relatively light flavors and due to the lack of presence in the fruit department, the alcohol shows through a bit too much. This is nevertheless a fine Nebbiolo by all accounts, but I can imagine this could get another 2-3 points if it was a bit more open. I hope time will help with this. (90 pts.)
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2016 Cascina delle Rose Barbaresco Rio Sordo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
An organic Barbaresco from the Rio Sordo Cru. Fermented for two weeks, followed by extended maceration with submerged cap method for another week. Aged in large (1000-2000 liters) Slavonian oak botti casks of for 20 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat translucent black cherry color with subtly brick-red highlights. Ripe, dark-toned and subtly lactic nose with pure and somewhat sweet aromas of strawberry milkshake, dark plums and ripe black raspberries, a little bit of raw pepper steak, light notes of blood, a hint of raspberry marmalade and a subtly animale touch of farmhouse funk. The wine is firm, sinewy and quite compact on the palate with medium-to-moderately full body and dry, not that ripe yet very juicy flavors of cranberries and sour cherries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of rusty iron, light notes of dried herbs, a hint of roasted game and a touch of tart lingonberry. The overall feel is wonderfully textural and rather chewy with a terrific structure, thanks to the high acidity and firm, medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, quite tough and somewhat grippy with long, crunchy flavors of sour cherries, some tart cranberries and lingonberries, a little bit of truffle, light iron tones, a hint of tar and a touch of meaty umami.
A beautifully firm and savory Nebbiolo and a real textbook example of an old-school Barbaresco. Despite its still slightly lactic nose, the wine impresses right from the get-go. Although 2016 is supposed to be a great vintage for both Barolo and Barbaresco, all too many wines from this vintage have been noticeably ripe, rather sweet-toned and even surprisingly soft. Well, not this wine. This is as lean, dry and sinewy as I want my Barbaresco to be. The tannins are not super-assertive and massively grippy, but they certainly pack some welcome punch and grit. Overall the wine feels too youthful - both aromatically and structurally - for immediate consumption, but I’m positive the wine will start to drink nicely after 2-4 years. However, since the feels all about development potential, it would make much more sense to approach it after another 12-15 years. This is a keeper. Highly recommended. (93 pts.)
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2016 La Ca’ Nova Barbaresco Vigna Bric Mentina Montefico - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Fermented for 22 days with constant pump-overs. Aged for 18 months in 3000-liter oak botti casks, then for another 10 months in bottle. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, only somewhat translucent and relatively youthful dark ruby red color with a pale ruby rim. Somewhat ripe and slightly metallic nose with aromas of ripe dark forest fruits, some leather, a little bit of dusty old wood, light sour cherry tones, a hint of rusty iron and a touch of salmiac powder (salty liquorice). The wine is dense, ripe and somewhat extracted on the palate with moderately full body and juicy flavors of ripe cranberries, sour cherry bitterness, some earthy tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light sanguine notes of iron and a touch of dusty old wood. The wine feels somewhat warm with quite firm tannic grip and rather high acidity. The finish is dry, juicy and somewhat grippy with bright, savory flavors of cranberries, sour cherries, some sanguine iron, a little bit of wild strawberry, a hint of earth and a touch of tannic bitterness.
A tasty, balanced and harmonious single-vineyard Barbaresco. Well-made by all accounts and not really lacking in anything else, but perhaps in some character and distinction. For its young age, the wine is immediately accessible, but it feels more like a very ripe and somewhat extracted Langhe Nebbiolo more like a single-vineyard Barbaresco. I would prefer to leave the wine in a cellar for at least some years in the hopes that the terroir would start to shine through after the wine loses its baby fat. Solid value at ~25-30€, though. (89 pts.)
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2016 Francesco Versio Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Francesco Versio has been working as a winemaker at Bruno Giacosa and Oddero. At the same time, he has been producing his own wine from his tiny family estate, farming organically 50-yo vines in two Barbaresco Crus of San Cristoforo and Currà - mainly in the former with small holdings in the latter. The fruit was sold until the vintage 2012; thus this is the 4th commercially released Versio Barbaresco ever. Fermented in stainless steel, aged in one 2000-liter oak botti. Vinified with minimal sulfites, bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale and very translucent, limpid cranberry red color with a somewhat developed brick-orange hue. Brooding and remarkably understated nose with reticent, dark-toned aromas of blood, black cherries, some salty liquorice, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light notes of tar and smoke, a hint of sour cherry and a touch of dusty old wood. There’s lots of nuance to the nose, but the overall feel is surprisingly light, bordering on mute; you really have to concentrate to find anything at all from the nose. The wine is silky, somewhat lean and savory on the palate with moderately full body and dry flavors of sanguine iron, crunchy cranberries, some tart dark berry flavors, a little bit of fresh red cherry, light gamey tones and a hint of tangy red plums. Although the wine is not as reticent on the palate as the nose was, the flavors are still lacking intensity and the wine comes across as somewhat underwhelming. The high acidity and the powdery medium tannins are nicely in balance with the body. The medium-long finish is somewhat grippy with dry, crunchy flavors of cranberries, rusty iron, some sour cherries, a little bit of gravelly minerality and a touch of tar.
A lively and sophisticated, but also somewhat underwhelming Barbaresco that feels very harmonious, but somewhat lacking in intensity. You can taste the purity and classicist style here, but unfortunately the wine is currently whispering, not singing. In a comparative tasting setting the wine suffers from a Chablis syndrome: you can taste the quality here, but amidst so many more expressive wines, the wine just doesn’t manage to make the cut. I hope the wine was just caught in an awkward phase and it will open up if given some age. (87 pts.)
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2013 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Made from old-vineyard Nebbiolo sourced from the Rabajà cru. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel over a period of 3-4 weeks. Aged in old (5-20 years old) Slavonian oak casks (1700-2600 liters) for 22 months and for a further year in bottles before release. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Translucent, quite pale and still surprisingly youthful raspberry red color. Clean, ripe and somewhat sweet-toned nose with juicy and quite complex aromas of raspberry jam, some cherry marmalade, light floral notes of violets and roses, a marmaladey hint of red-toned primary fruit and a touch of alcohol. Contrasting the quite sweet-toned nose, the wine is surprisingly lean, tightly-knit and very structure-driven on the palate with moderately full body and high-toned flavors of sour cherries, tart lingonberries, some sanguine notes that feel not only somewhat rusty, but even slightly metallic, a little bit of sweeter marmaladey raspberry tones, a hint of extracted black tea and a touch of tart black forest fruits. The wine is high in acidity with assertive, even somewhat aggressive and very grippy tannins. The finish is dry, lean and very tannic with flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some gravelly minerality, a little bit of smoke and tar, light peppery tones, a metallic hint of iron and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
A very tightly-knit, impressively structured and dead-serious single-vineyard Barbaresco. Very lovely and attractive otherwise, save for the slightly metallic note on the palate. Since I didn’t pick up any metallic notes when I tasted the wine last time 2 years ago, I think there must be some bottle variation going on - at least I hope so. All in all, this is a very impressive, somewhat lean and quite forbiddingly tannic Barbaresco that feels like it is not going to be hitting its optimal drinking window anytime soon. Still needs at least 10-15 years of cellaring, if not more. Terrific value at 31,90€. (92 pts.)
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2016 Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Roncagliette - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Organic. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated for 60 days with the skins. Aged for approximately 20 months in old Slavonian oak bottis. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Remarkably pale, thin raspberry red color. Looks almost like a deep, dark rosé rather than a red wine. Brooding, ripe and juicy nose with attractive, fine-tuned aromas of wizened black cherries, some dusty earthy tones, a little bit of sweet pruney fruit, light strawberry tones, a hint of tar and a touch of brambly raspberry. The wine is firm, intense and quite tightly-knit on the palate with ripe yet very dry and savory flavors of game, tart cranberry, sour cherry bitterness, some meaty umami, light notes of earth floor, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of blood. The high acidity and textural yet very grippy tannins make the wine feel quite tough and unapologetic, yet still the wine is not lacking one bit in finesse. The finish is dry, tough and textural with very grippy tannins and lengthy flavors of fresh raspberries, stony minerality, some earthy tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light notes of lingonberries, a hint of rusty iron and a peppery touch of phenolic spice.
An outstanding, very tightly-knit and tremendously promising Barbaresco from the more natural end that is brimming with potential. The pale, limpid appearance gives no indication whatsoever what kind of tannic beast this wine really is. The wine is not as aggressively tannic as the Giuseppe Cortese Rabaja 2013 that was tasted alongside, but definitely more tightly-knit and drier in style than the Bondonio Roncagliette 2016. The overall style here would be bordering on austere, if it weren’t for the intense fruit flavors that counterpoint the structural elements wonderfully. The wine is still very angular and unresolved, and most likely it is going to remain that way for many more years. I wouldn’t think of approaching this wine before its 10th birthday. Definitely built for the long haul. Very highly recommended. (94 pts.)
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2016 Poderi Colla Barbaresco Roncaglie - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Macerated with the skins for two weeks. Aged for 14 months in large Slavonian oak botti casks. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Beautifully luminous and quite translucent ruby red color. Slightly restrained, ripe and moderately sweet-toned nose with aromas of cherry juice, some black raspberry tones, a little bit of lifted VA, light brambly notes of blackberries, a hint of alcohol and a touch of dried roses. The nose doesn’t feel big or powerful, but very fragrant and seductive. The wine is dry, firm and medium-bodied on the palate with very firm and grippy tannins and youthful, sinewy flavors of sour cherries, tart lingonberries, some stony minerality, light cranberry tones, a hint of quinine bitterness and a touch of gravelly minerality. Very chewy and rough on the edges. Bright, high acidity. The finish is tough, grippy and intense with youthful, precise flavors of tart dark berries, lignonberries, some sweeter black cherries, light stony mineral tones, a hint of crunchy cloudberry and a darker-toned touch of bilberry.
A tough, structured and very serious Barbaresco. Although not super-aggressive, the wine is still far from an accessible easy-drinking Nebbiolo - a wine right up my alley! Nothing fun and easy here, this is dry, bitter and tannic with remarkable intensity. Built to last for ages. Stash away and don’t touch for a long time - expect the score to go up over the years. Remarkable quality at ~35€. Highly recommended. (94 pts.)
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2016 La Ca’ Nova Barbaresco Montestefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (20.1.2020)
Fermented for 22 days with constant pump-overs. Aged for 18 months in 3000-liter oak botti casks, then for another 10 months in bottle. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep and dark yet moderately translucent cherry red color with a subtly maroon hue. Ripe, sweet-toned and somewhat restrained nose with brooding aromas of plummy dark fruit, some juicy red cherries, a little bit of peppery spice, light licorice root tones, a hint of hot gravel and a touch of sun-baked sandy soil. The wine is ripe and silky yet pretty firm on the palate with moderately full body and pure flavors of sweet black cherries and dark plums, some peppery spice, a little bit of black tea, light sanguine notes of iron and raw meat, a hint of crunchy crowberry and a lifted touch of sweet balsamic VA. Balanced overall feel with moderately high acidity and textural, powdery medium-plus tannins. The finish is juicy yet dry with firm yet friendly tannic grip and savory flavors of ripe red berries and crunchy cranberries, some tart red plums, a little bit of stony minerality, light licorice root tones and a hint of black tea.
A very pure, balanced and harmonious Barbaresco. Stylistically very poised, but perhaps a bit predictable as well, lacking in distinction. Fortunately the wine certainly feels like a true single-vineyard Barbaresco (unlike the enjoyable but somewhat uninteresting La Ca’ Nova Barbaresco Montefico), but still it doesn’t really do anything to me that would make me lift this wine above its peers. It’s a well-made, harmonious and structured effort that is pretty accessible already, but shows good potential for development as well. Thoroughly enjoyable, but nothing too memorable, at least for now; perhaps might gain some character and additional depth with age. Terrific value at 25-30€, though. (91 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker.
