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1997 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (3/28/2020)
Medium expressive nose displaying ripe concentrated black fruit, black currant jam, dry fig, plum, licorice, fruit cake, vanilla, tar, leather and earth. Excellent concentration, generous very ripe black fruit, rich, warm and round, surprisingly soft and hallow middle, medium acidity, earthy mineral, tannins are still masked by generous fruit but clearly noticeable on the second night, and a medium to long ripe black fruit driven finish with licorice and fruit cake at the end. Stephen Tanzer wrote in 1998 “does it have as much grip?” which is fascinating. The noticeable tannins are there yet feels very soft. It feels modern and reminds me Gaja a bit but not as interesting. (92 pts.) -
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut - France, Champagne (3/25/2020)
This has clearly reached the youthful peak. Very vinous driven nose, sous cherry, raspberry soda, smoked salmon, sous bois, cinnamon, sweet spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered sweet raspberry fruit, rich and decadent yet precise, bright acidity, limestone mineral and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with smoke and sous cherry at the end. It is a rich and opulent Rose, not so refined like Krug or DP but incredibly delicious. There is ample fruit to age and it will be interesting to follow for the next two decades. (96 pts.) -
2003 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (3/23/2020)
Clearly displaying the 03 overripe fruit, cherry, cherry liqueur, plum, dark spices, tar, oak/vanilla, anise, rare steak, and earth. Excellent concentration, packed overripe black fruit, chewy and rich, good acidity, earthy mineral, still very noticeable coarse tannins and a medium to long very ripe concentrated red fruit driven finish with licorice and dark spices at the end. It remains very tannic and masculine, perhaps due to new oak. Perhaps another decade of cellaring will lessen the ripe fruit and oak expression, and soften the tannins. (91 pts.) -
2009 Jérôme Chezeaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (3/21/2020)
At the mid-stage of development. Medium expressive nose displaying ripe blackberry, a hint of dark spices, rose, sap, mushroom and earthy mineral. Medium concentration, slightly muted black fruit, unctuous, noticeable acidity that is slightly disjointed, slightly rustic tannins and a medium long black fruit driven finish. The fruit is slightly coiled at the moment and not much development of sous bois. Still needs another decade or longer. (92 pts.)
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