My thoughts about the Paulee Grand Tasting this year

Interestingly, I have seen several threads about not going to any Paulee events, but no threads about any of the events - may have just missed them if they were around.

First, my overall thought is that 2017 is a very good vintage that seems to have good acidity and is stylistically right in my wheehouse - like 2010 and 2014, for example, for reds. I like the vintage for both whites and reds and like it a good bit more than I did a year and a half ago when I was tasting barrel samples in Burgundy. Visit to Burgundy and Champagne - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers The wines from the producers I visited then have filled out more and virtually all were better than they were when I tasted them then - the common producers were Clerget, Hudelot-Noellat (the wines then were still undergoing malo), Mugneret-Gibourg, and Bernard Moreau.

I very much liked the whites and there were some outstanding producers there. Some of my favorites were PYCM (the Corton Charlemagne and Batard-Montrachet were fabulous), Sauzet (I have had Sauzet before but never a range of wines like this and was very impressed (esp. with the BBM)), Roulot (loved their wines, but not at all sure they are worth the premium they command in the US), Drouhin (esp., the CM Moregot "Marquis de Laguiche), Comte Lafon, Bernard Moreau (esp. the CM Vergers and Morgeots) and Olivier Leflaive (never had their wines before). A new producer to me whose wines I liked a good bit was Paul Pillot. My white wine of the event was the Bouchard Chevalier Montrachet - fabulous wine.

As for the reds, I really have to single out the Volnays. Wonderful assortment of Volnays. I really liked the Volnays from D’Angerville, Lafarge, Comte Lafon, Montille and Bouchard. But, I give special mention to the wines from Thibaud Clerget. His Volnays (and his Clos Vougeot) were fabulous and he had one of my two favorite villages Volnays - with, of course, Lafarge’s Vendanges Selectionnees. Look for 2017 Volnays.

Going to the rest of the Cotes de Nuits, we really were treated to a whose who of the best of Burgundy. I have often stated here my love for the wines of Hudelot-Noellat and Mugneret-Gibourg and these were fabulous yesterday. Then, what more could one want than to be drinking wines from Dujac, Fourrier, Trapet, and Comte de Vogue. I have not had that much wine from Trapet (I drink a lot of Rossignol-Trapet) and this was, at least to me, a real find. But, not surprisingly, the wine of the event was the CdV Musigny. Other notable wines were the Hudelot-Noellat Richebourg, CdV Bonnes Mares, MG Echezeaux and Ruchottes Chambertin, Trapet Chambertin, Fourrier Clos St. Jacques (Jadot’s was awfully good also), My value wine of the tasting was Faiveley’s Mercurey Clos des Myglands. I was thrilled with the excellent showing of HN’s Clos de Vougeot as I own some.

Then, as an extra bonus they had Salon 2007 and Delamotte 2012. The Delamotte was special, but very young. The Salon was even much better.

Howard, thanks for posting. As usual I love this event both for the depth and breadth of what is possible to sample.

Like you I adored the 2017s and found much to be impressed by. There were many examples that I thought would be great to drink young, and also quite a few with depth and structure to age as long as one might like. While not quite as good as 2016, this is a very good vintage that will be a solid part of the cellar. Yes, the whites were standouts. My favorite overall was Paul Pillot, and I loved Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches. But there was much to like from the lofty GCs to village Chablis (eg. Louis Michel).

While a few of the reds didn’t impress me the overall impression was of excellence. Howard and I have similar tastes, but I’d have to add a salute to the Comte Liger-Belair. Unbelievable elegance - depth and intensity paired with perfect balance and delicacy. The wines were really a marvel, but sadly out of my price range. Hopefully I’ll post more detailed notes at some point.

Thanks for the note Howard. Was just going through mine so will type my thoughts out.

Overall: A very enjoyable vintage for the reds and right in my wheel house. Agree with you that the Volnays were the star. The whites were outstanding across the board - I really liked the 2017 Meursaults and while still good, felt the least positive about Chablis.

A few notes on certain producers:

d’Angerville - Already mentioned the Volnays above generally. Most impressive wines at the tasting for me (sure there is some adjustment that even the Ducs is a 1/4 to 1/5 of the price of some other producers’ GCs and even 1ers, but even so, man were these good).

Bouchard - Also had the Chevalier as the white of the tasting. The Genevries wasn’t far behind and it is priced more than right. I wasn’t sold on the reds.

Clerget - The villages Volnay was my QPR of the tasting. All very good, but the Verseuil was notable.

PYCM - Entire range was fun, but to be honest I struggle with the current pricing. Not sure elegant enough for the price.

Dujac - They were good Dujacs. I sometimes feel like the only person who isn’t enamored with the wines at any age, and this didn’t change my mind.

Fourrier - I’ve always loved these and this year is no different. Entire range was great, but agree the CSJ showed its pedigree.

Grivot - Rich and supple. To me, They lacked a bit of transparency, but I don’t have a lot of experience with Grivot with age.

Hudelot-Noellat - I continue to think Murgers doesn’t get enough respect. The Murgers, Suchot and CdV were all excellent.

Lafarge - Good Volnays, but I thought d’Angerville and Clerget were next level in 2017.

Montille - Loved the two whites, particularly the Corton-Charlamagne.

Mugneret-Gibourg - Excellent range, particularly the Echezeaux. The VR village was very special for a villages, and while I haven’t looked, I have no doubt it is priced that way.

Roulot - is Roulot. Agree that I struggle to justify the prices, although I think the Bourgogne is still fair for the absolute class.

Sauzet - Enjoyed the entire range. The BBM was great (expected) and thought the Perrieres punched well above its weight.

Enjoyed vicariously.
Anybody attend the Gala dinner?

A FEW THOUGHTS IN CAPS.

Well, that’s pretty-much my vintage summary from 15 months ago - Delamotte excepted!

Overall impression: surprised how approachable the wines were. Not as concentrated as 2016, 14 or the 10s (which I rank higher). Early drinking vintage, the village wines were too simple (unlike 16s or 15s). Overall whites showed better than reds.

Top 3 producers
Mugneert Gibourg: True class across the lineup. The texture of the wines stood out. Echezeaux was a star of the tasting.

Comte Liger Bel-air: Perhaps the most perfumed wines. The reignots was a GC in all but the name. Wish the prices were lower

Hudelot-Noellat: As people have mentioned before, some of their 1er crus are being overlooked. I felt suchot was the highlight, the GC needed time.

Volnays stood out

d’Angerville: The village ones were light. The champans and Clos des ducs were remarkable.

Rossignol: Surprise of the tasting. The volnays showed purity, elegance and depth. The chevret and santanots were outstanding. Need to seek more.

Clerget: Darker in color compared to the other too. I really liked the pommard, offered more depth in a vintage like 17s.


Rest

Lafarge: Bit too rustic compared to the others. Didnt match the other volnay producers. However wouldn’t turn down their clos des chenes.

Grivot: Good vintage for Grivot, rich and broad wines. Vosne village was so drinkable. The rest needed time.

Fourrier: not as great as the 16s. I feel Combe aux moines is the sweet spot in the lineup. Little too fruity without structure, perhaps the sign of the vintage.

Duroche: The wines were too sour and tart. Was disappointed.

Trapet: The star of the gevrey producers. Wine were cherry-red, silky and immensely drinkable. The chambertin was the star, no surprise.

Dujac: Too new world for me. Too much oak and stems.

Vogue: Shame that they own majority of Musigny. They are more suited for Bonnes Mares style wise. Nothing different to prior experience.

d’Eugenie: wines were all good but no special character. Felt like a Pauillac in burgundy!

Bize: Great wines, of both colors. Their Lat chambertin was remarkable. The savigny was delicous as well.

Drouhin: Best of the maisons for me. The Clos de vougeot and the Chassange really stood out.

Whites:

Top 4

PYCM: Had to go to CC or Batard to see why they are sought after. Such a distinct style.

Sauzet: Highlight of the whites. BBM was among the best. Pulignys was delicious too. If only they had low premox incidence.

Bernard Moreau: best of the chassagne producer for me. The entire line up showed well, good delineation between vineyards.

Roulot: Wines were so fresh and clean. But fail to understand sky high prices for village wines.

Others:

Pillot: The village was too oaky. The chassagne 1er crus were good.

Lafon: Good vintage for lafon. Seemed to have dialed down on the oak. Good wines, but silly prices.

Jobard: Genevrieres stood out, the rest were fine.

Pierre Morey: Unlike the verticals where the whites was the best, the wines didn’t show too well.

de Montille: I adore their whites, corton charlie was incredible.


My palate was shot when I got to chablis, didnt have much notes.

Grand tasting and the verticals were very well organized!

Howard agree with all of the above observations, well done! Will add as another producer the 17 whites from Jadot. The CC was really outstanding and now they are using DIAM they will likely even be better in terms of premox. Rossingnol was another Volnay producer that was excellent, and the wines are made in a very accessible style this year. He opined that 17 will be an earlier drinking vintage with enough stuffing to go on for the medium term. I would concur based on the Volnays for sure. The D’Angerville Ducs was excellent, but likely will need a few years to soften a bit but is not brutal to taste right now. Couldn’t agree more on the Salon! The vertical event was also well done and the M-G wines were great also for that event. Damn, wish they were not so expensive. I also found out I am probably stupid to buy any young Bonne Mares…I don’t know how well I will be drinking in 20 years.

As a side-note, I have never observed so much compulsive handwashing, use of Purell, and sterilized wipes as i saw over the weekend. The message about contagion is at least getting through in NYC. Everyone is just kind of holding their breath for now and waiting for warm weather and a decrease of the spread of the virus. A major breakout in New York would cause a serious degree of economic as well as social harm to all of the industries there. Was at a theater performance of Hadestown on Saturday night and the place was full, at least no immediate damage to the Broadway for now?

It’s interesting to read people’s perspectives! I thought 17 was a pretty vintage but very producer driven - i.e., if you like the producer, you’ll probably like it (unlike, say, 16, where it was hard to make bad reds).

Overall, I thought the 17 reds were charming but mostly on the lighter side, while the whites were a bit more mixed.

Whites:
I have a strong aversion to oak in chardonnay, so have never liked PYCM’s style, but was incredibly impressed by his grand crus. Almost feels like they’re made by a different producer than the 1ers. Nice to have your preconceptions shattered sometimes.
I thought the Pillot higher elevation wines (Romanee, Grande Montagne) were great as well.
Bouchard’s Chevalier was spectacular - I thought his entire range was great, and the biggest surprise for me.
Moreau’s Vergers was wonderful
I liked the Genot-Boulanger wines as well.
Jadot is good value for the Meursault - not spectacular, but solid.

Reds:
Hudelot Noellat’s Richebourg was phenomenal, as was Trapet’s Chambertin. I was a touch underwhelmed by the Suchot, which is unusual, that’s the wine I tend to buy the most of (I love Hudelot-Noellat).
Fourrier did really well in 17 I thought - the Clos St. Jacques and Combe au Moine (the sweet spot in the lineup).
The Bouchard res were a very pleasant surprise - again nice to have prejudices overturned. I really liked the Cailleret.
I liked the Champans and the Ducs from D’Angerville a lot, the Chenes from Lafarge as well; I agree that Lafarge’s wines are a touch more rustic, but that’s consistent with the house styles. That Chenes is a beast, one of the few wines that will make very old bones from this vintage imho.
Mugneret Gibourg was lovely as always, very consistent with their style.

Added note, two other top notch wines were served at Amex Lounge.

Chassagne 1er cru by Ramonet and Morey 1er cru by Roumier.

I saw the Amex lounge but did not know anything about it. What did you need to do to get in there? I paid for my tickets with Amex.

Howard: same for me. I only peeked from the outside. Probably you needed to buy the ‘Magnum’ or bigger package that were offered. ‘Magnum’ was the Grand Tasting and Gala Dinner.

Just had to show your AMEX…and they would let you in.

You must have showed yours with the secret handshake. I showed mine and got turned away. I had to console myself with Vogue Bonnes Mares.

Seriously?? Maybe it was Platinum/Reserve cards and above…

Adding insult to injury!

Showed the platinum card and walked in. Worth carrying with you at La Paulee events.

I have a regular green Amex card (from Hilton), paid for the Paulee tickets and had the card with me. But, did not really know what the room was all about.

I was curious to check in. At the entrance, they asked if we have platinum card; which allowed me and couple of friends in.
Found out they were pouring some special wines, and you could see why Ramonet’s and Roumier’s wines are a different class. They had food served by gabriel kreuther as well. It was good to sit down have a bite and glass of each.

Wow, you have swung to the dark side! I always knew you were a closet fan!