Unti LaCrima DryCreekVlly (14.2%; 50 cs) Healdsburg 2017: Very dark color; slight herbal very fragrant/perfumed black cherry/black cherry cola/LaCrima some pencilly/toasty/oak slight earthy/rustic/Italianate lovely aromatic nose; bit soft very strong LaCrima/black cherry/black cherry cola/bit root beer slight earthy/rustic some smokey/pencilly/oak bit complex flavor w/ modest rough tannins; very long/lingering strong black cherry/black cherry cola/slight licorice/pungent bit earthy/rustic finish w/ modest tannins; speaks strongly of LaCrima character w/ a slight rustic/Italianate character; would like a bit more high-toned DCV character; as good as any LaCrima from LaMarche I can recall.
A wee BloodyPulpit:
LaCrima is the grape known in LeMarche as LaCrima di Morro d’Alba. GeorgeUnti planted a few rows at Unti and their first LaCrima release was a blend of three vintages and a bit on the late-hrvsty side. Turns out that their LaCrima vines were badly virus-infected and I believe they have since been pulled. Too bad, because this is a first-rate expression of LaCrima. Reminds a bit of Refosco, a bit of Schioppettino.
In LeMarche, they make a fabulous dessert wine called Visciola, from Visciola cherries and LaCrima grapes. This wine is a no-brainer for a Calif dessert wine but nobody listens to TomHill, so no Calif Visciola yet. Over in the SuisunVlly, where they grow a lot of cherries, a PetiteSirah/cherry Visciola would be a natural.
Tom
Hey Tom, nice note on a very interesting wine. Also tasted this at the October Idlewild Sunday School and had a similar reaction. Enjoyed the wine quite a bit and your theoretical blend of Refosco and Schioppettino is about right. My TN from October is below:
“2017 Unti Lacrima: This was the second additional wine and an interesting story. Cuttings of Lacrima were taken and planted at the Estate. After a couple years of small production the vines became diseased and died. The Lacrima will not be replanted.
After tasting the 2017 Unti Lacrima it is a shame that it was discontinued. The aromas and flavors were similar to the previous wine, just toned down a bit which gave it excellent balance. Expressive aromatics, violets, carnations, bergamot. Strong flavors of blackberry, bergamot, violets and tea. Great acidity, little to no tannin. A very good showing, unfortunately the last one for Unti Lacrima.”
The previous wine to the Unti Lacrima I referred to was the unbelievable fragrant 2017 Luigi Giusti Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC: My TN for that is below: 2017 Luigi Giusti Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC: The first of many reds. Very strong floral notes of violet, white carnations, bergamot and dark fruit. Nose is almost too much, like standing next to too much cologne. strong flavors of red and black raspberry, bergamot, blueberry, violets. Intense but balanced flavors, bracing acidity with little tannin. Quite a mouthful of wine. You will be hard pressed to find a more floral wine.
Wonder where Unti sourced their Lacrima cuttings from. Assume they suitcased it in rather than having the cuttings go through the quarantine / cleaning up process through Foundation Plant Services (FPS) in Davis. Heard similar stories in recent years of suitcased cuttings of several varieties being badly virused and having to be pulled out before too many years - just hope those didn’t spread plant viruses elsewhere in the vineyard or to nearby vineyards.
Among varieties that have gone through FPS and are available for planting or grafting, Ruchè may be the most similar to Lacrima, at least aromatically. Randall Grahm has some at his vineyard (who knows where he got the cuttings from) and Bryan Harrington brought some cuttings from Randall to FPS. IIRC, the cuttings from Randall turned out to be clean with no virus. Sam grafted some at his Wild Ruth Ranch in Yorkville Highlands, didn’t he, Tom?
First, I like Unti and their style/approach to winemaking as well their adventurous spirit with Italian varieties.
2nd, It all strikes me as a fun experiment. Many Italian varieties can grow well in CA (are there any that don’t?) and interesting enjoyable wines can be made.
3rd, On a commercial level, it all seems largely impractical. Much of the best of the actual Italian production, i.e.: Lacrima di Morro d’Alba…or Refosco…or Schioppettino…or even Visciola…can generally be purchased in this Country for less than the pricing that Unti or other CA producers could afford to sell it for. This might be less true in Sonoma County, but it certainly seems that way in the Northeast US.
Tom, your notes are interesting, yet it all seems kind of foolish. Is there commercial practicality beyond being a limited production novelty? There doesn’t need to be…but your notes tend to encourage me to try more examples of the real thing rather than CA interpretations.