I’m curious to get the board’s collective wisdom on the 2018 vintage throughout France.
Media reports seem to be trumpeting the greatness of the vintage, though I’m reading in some regions how it is the second hottest vintage after 2003 (which I’m aware 2019 will trump). Thus far I’ve completed two regular case purchases from 2018 that I’d usually consider no brainers. The first is Faury Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (my importer brought in a bottling called “Glou Glou”). The second is Bernard Baudry Les Granges. I was surprised to find that they are 13.9% and 13.5% alcohol respectively! Both pour extremely inky dark in the glass and both are very structured with noted bitterness and protruding alcohol. While I’d usually expect low alcohol, varietal/regional typicity, and lighter weight and fruit in these bottles, I’ve instead discovered total bombs. Both examples are far more deep, heady, and extracted than anything I encountered with a vintage like 2015. I suppose I’ll find out if age round out these hard edges.
I’m struck by this Decanter quote:
Patrick Meynard, owner of Châteaux Lalaudey and Pomeys in Moulis-Médoc, said 2018 will deliver the most structured wines since 2010, and expects ‘a vintage marked by climate more than terroir’.
So what do you say? Is this a sign of what’s to come in this vintage as the heavy hitters roll in, or have I just gotten unlucky?
It was striking to me to read Loire wine writer Chris Kissack, on this site, relay that one vineyard in Loire Cab Franc - yes, Loire - clocked in at 16%. I cannot imagine a Loire CF at 15%, let alone 16%. They really should be sub-14%.
I’ve not tried any 2018s yet. But that really caught my eye.
Not sure what regions you’re interested in, but I had a 2018 Chidaine Baudoin last week, and it was quite nice. Concentrated, yes, but balanced. 14%. A hint of warmth on the finish but a nice wine - certainly nothing exaggerated.
The only thing I buy in France is red burgundy and I bought the same things in 2018 that I buy every year. From my standpoint, I didn’t see any media trumpeting the greatness of the vintage. Everything I read made it pretty clear that there were some real bruisers and some busts (although I wouldn’t say there was any consensus on what was good/bad). Buyer beware seems like a good strategy.
A
John Gilman and Claude Kolm have both said that it’s the most wildly inconsistent red Burgundy vintage that either of them have tasted – some great wines, some over-the-top wines, sometimes at the same producer – and they each go back many decades in the region.
Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, chef de caves and executive vice-president at Roederer, said of 2018 “I’ve never seen such a great vintage overall.”
I’m looking forward to them. Production volumes were way up, and apparently overall acidity didn’t suffer.
I’ve written about it here before but I am definitely worried, especially when it comes to Cru Beaujolais alcohol levels. Fortunately there is plenty of 2016 and 2017 available from my favorite French regions so now is a good time to buy more of those, especially 2016.
I’ve definitely been skittish with ‘18 Burgundy and Rhône. I read Kolm’s Burgundy report and notes from individual producers. I suspect my palate aligns with his. Which makes me skeptical when so many with a vested interest are touting how great the vintage is across the board.
Thanks for the comments. My thoughts were mostly directed at Bordeaux, the Loire and the Rhone. Perhaps the better Champagne and Burgundy producers have avoided the heat wave.
I’m almost certain he was writing about Couly-Dutheil, but he did go on to say in another post that the plot responsible had been demoted to a lesser wine. The 2018 Loire reds I have bought so far have levels that are no higher than usual - between 12.5 and 13.5°, the one exception being Yannick Amirault’s top wine, Le Pavillon du Grand Clos, which clocks in at 14°. So nothing to worry about at this point.
As for Bordeaux, I’m not over-anxious either. The tiny sample of wines I’ve tasted so far have been quite strong but balanced with good acidity - they made me think of an improved version of 2010.
Bordeaux 2018 is definitely a bold vintage. 2009-like with high complexity and good ripeness. I tasted quite a few barrel samples and while the complexity is off the charts there is some alcohol in one or the other wine. I would be more selective than in 2016, which on average has 1%+ less alcohol. But I wouldn’t deny myself the 2018s. While 2016 or 2010 (or 2005) are bigger in my cellar, the 2009 vintages keeps giving a lot of joy (especially on the left bank). I would just be selective (especially on the right bank) in 2018 and check alcohol levels first.
As far as Burgundy is concerned, I had worries that that was the case. My few tastings in Burgundy disabused me of said worries. I will be buying my usual producers without fear (and in quantity).
If you read John Gilman and Claude Kolm’s reviews (which are cited in that thread I linked to above), they were kind of dumbfounded at the inconsistency in Burgundy, even in the same cellar. And they both focus on top producers. So it sounds like a Burgundy vintage where you can’t just buy based on producer reputation. You have to know something about how their individual wines turned out.
I’ve instead discovered total bombs. Both examples are far more deep, heady, and extracted than anything I encountered with a vintage like 2015
The Dressner portfolio is like that in 2018.
The 2018 Roilette [normale] is slick & sleek & polished & sauve & satiny for the first day or two, then the spoof burns off and it falls apart on Day 3 and goes all skanky on you.
Whereas the 2018 L’Ancien opens very awkwardly - it’s rough & disjointed & rude for the first day or two, but after a few days, the various parts start melding together, and it becomes a great big fruit bomb which refuses to oxidize.
[So pop-n-pour/drink-now on the Roillette, but hold the L’Ancien for a decade or two.]
The Texiers all taste rather industrial these days [like something Gallo might produce]; I have an idea as to what the Texiers need, but I haven’t yet had a chance to experiment with them.
The various 2018 French whites I’ve tasted are similar in style to the Roillette & the Texiers - very smooth, very easy to swallow, but not showing much in the way of typicity nor terroir.
Although I’m getting that now everywhere in Europe - everyone seems to be moving to this smooth sauve satiny absence of typicity & terroir.
Hopefully, if you’re patient, it fades after a few years, and eventually you get real wine?