TN: Northern Rhones

Blind tasting notes Feb. 28, 2016

Northern Rhone theme, with Southern Rhone allowed only for whites and good ringers invited.

Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Iteration 24 Grande Cuvée – this one was based on the 2006, 2004, and 2002 vintages. Excellent nose, smooth crisp entry, very good.

2010 Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc – showing a bit of colour now, and a fairly ripe nose of peach/apricot. Excellent mouth feel. Good showing.

2015 Domaine Auguste Clape St. Péray – citrus nose, oily mouth feel then switching more to pear in a clean finish. Very nice.

2016 Cave St. Pierre Syrah Réserve des Administrateurs – my wine and what turned out to be a very good ringer. As long as no one asked if it was French, I was good – and someone asked if it was a Northern Rhone and of course I correctly said yes, as the Valais in Switzerland is indeed further up the Rhone River. Fairly dark and showing a good syrah nose with notable black pepper, it smooth on palate, almost elegant and had ample soft tannins.

2014 Domaine Marsanne St. Joseph – dark wine with lightening edges. A nose of black pepper, blood/iron and dark cherry which added a meaty component as it opened up. Smooth in mouth and with soft tannin at the end.

2012 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Classique Ampodium – more pepper and blood in this nose with nice roasted meat notes. A bit of thyme and black olive crept in toward the end. Warm and inviting but should hold for years.

1990 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne – I was interested in this one (after it had been identified) as Ii still have some in the cellar. A rather exotic nose with anise and leather, juicy on palate and a long finish with good balance. At peak and will hold for years.

2011 Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles – surprisingly ripe sweet nose, with faint metallic hints, red fruit in the mouth and clean acidity, medium length.

2014 Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 30 – lead pencil and white pepper nose a tad volatile, middle weight and persistent. Pretty good.

2003 M. Chapoutier Cornas – still fairly dark, with a nicely perfumed nose of plum, and a fairly solid middle. Bit shirt but not too bad for that vintage.

2009 Château Rieussec – zowie! What a way to finish up. Tropical fruit nose with some botrytis, and on palate sweet but balanced, delicious, long and very well balanced. I intend to hold mine for a few more years!

Have had most of the Northern Rhone producers in earlier vintages. Not that surprised that the non-Northern Rhone (go Rieussec!) won in this one.

Yeah…I’ve literally poured most of the 1990 Sizeranne down the drain because no one liked it.

OTOH, I have slowly worked my way through almost a case of 1993 La Sizeraine, some good some not so much, and the last one I opened was the best I have ever tasted.

To each their own!



1993 was the worst vintage at least in the 90ies, but most probably between 1980 and 2002 … so this was obviously a good job …

1990 is definitely much much better … and I´ve enjoyed 4 or 5 bottles so far … not a really great Cote-Rotie but usually excellent to outstanding. If it was to pour down the drain it was a flawed patch … (imho).

I would always rebuy it if in good condition and reasonably priced …

BTW: in 1997 I tried to collect as many different Cote-Roties as possible sur place for a tasting. It turned out that many producers were suspicious because the “Revue du Vin de France” - after neglecting the Appellation for many years - did eventually a comprehensive report, and chose the disastrous 1993 vintage … the results were equally catastrophic … and many growers were furious …
(I mean imagine a report about Bordeaux … using the 2013 vintage only …)

There was absolutely nothing flawed about the 1990 Sizeranne, it was just a not very good bottle of Hermitage (it is not Côte Rotie). Chapoutier wines aren’t very good imho.
Last I checked, Gilman gave it a 78. My palate doesn’t always align with John’s (though it does often), but he’s spot on in this case.

I have always preferred Jaboulet to Chapoutier, but have had some pleasant surprises with Chapoutier including their basic 1995 Cornas, which was quite presentable and the Ermitage Les Greffieux which in some vintges excels. And their Crozes, Meysonnierrs has been a best buy in the last couple of vintages.

Sadly, I am a bit uncertain about my old favourite Jaboulet after the buy out by the Freys. Wish I still had some 78s left - it vied with Chave for best of the vintage.

and I’ve often commented that Chapoutier makes some of the most boring wines in the northern Rhone.

Chapootier is the poster child for the exercise of eminent domaine [sic]. The INAO should seize the vineyards and give them to someone who knows how to make wine (e.g. Chave).

Yes, sure, my mistake … a mental leap maybe due to holding a bottle of Chapoutier 1990 Cote-Rotie in my hands two days ago.

Reg. 1990 Sizeranne in particular and Chapoutier generally I disagree - and I have the feeling that it is simply an aversion against the style - which isn´t very traditional …

Your bottle was bad, my bottle(s) were good … so I see 3 possibilities:

  1. shipping/storing issues
  2. there are different bottlings for the USA (or wherever) and France (where I bought mine)
  3. different views about what´s good - what´s bad …

I looked at my notes, and I gave the last Sizeranne 1990 bottle 91 points … definitely nothing for the sink …

Moreover I have opened a lot of Chapoutier bottles, not only Sizeranne, in my tastings, and when the bottle was sound it usually was apreciated by the group … incl. the 1990 and 1991 Sizerannes … but also other cuvées like Le Pavillon, La Mordoree, Barbe Rac etc.
It´s not my absolute favorite style in the Rhone, but also not rubbish wines … this is simply wrong and exaggerated … (I guess due to personal aversions).

I will not participate in useless discussions about modern versus traditinal styles etc. anymore … there are different styles and different tastes …

… but your comment is only one personal opinion, even if some people will be d´accords … my opinion is different and as valuable as yours …

That really doesn´t matter at all, because all wines are worth 93 points …

I love it. When I call a wine bad, I am “simply wrong and exaggerated”. But your opinions are just as valid as everyone else’s. [rofl.gif]

THIS

was exaggerated (imho) … but of course you are entitled to your ho …

No, it’s not exaggerated, because it’s clearly qualified as my opinion. My opinion is that Chapoutier wines aren’t very good.

I wish they were just boring. I think they are worse. But that’s just me.

Worse than boring.

Something that I wouldn’t want to serve to wine-knowledgeable guests.

Chapoutier really that bad? I’ve just started getting into Northern Rhones so excuse my ignorance, but damn…I wish I had checked this board before I placed my bids on this week’s auction!

Mike:

I think they are a little bit modern and I’ve been underwhelmed by the few bottles I’ve tried. Please see the link below to see what Davy Strange thinks:

What a brilliant article! I thoroughly enjoyed reading that haha. Going to have to try and look for some of the producers he suggested. Thanks Nick!

That’s spot on. I do think Michel’s grandparents were good winemakers in their day, but I’ve only had a few of those old Chapoutier wines. With his holdings the potential of this domaine is squandered year after year. IMO.