Tinned Fish & Wine Pairing (Conservas)

My wife and I had a great trip to the Azores to celebrate her 30th in November and while there fell in love the Portuguese tradition of tinned fish. Those who have only have North American grocery store tuna in water really need to try to source some of this.

I also recently caught this article on the benefits of tinned fish.

the points are a little drawn out, so here is the summary:

  • For nearly two centuries, canned seafood has been viewed as a delicacy in Southern Europe.


  • Rather than processing low-quality fish parts (i.e., some of the canned tuna you’d find in a U.S. grocery store), artisan producers use their highest-quality yields, carefully clean the product, cook them to perfection, and preserve them at peak freshness.


  • High protein content and rich omega-3 fatty acids, it’s no secret that a fish-heavy diet welcomes a range of health benefits.


  • Unlike tuna, sardines and anchovies are low in mercury


  • Every species has its own sustainability tale, but from mussels to tuna, canned seafood often has a very good story to tell.

I did a search and was surprised to find very few mentions of tinned fish or conservas on the board. I’d like to understand what people do pairing wise.

While in the Azores we stuck mostly to local whites like the Azores Wine Company Branco Vulcanico, which worked well. Other obvious choices leaping to mind are chardonnay or champagne. Anything else? Would richer fish in a tomato sauce work with lighter high acid reds? Here are a few we brought back with us:

  • Mackerel in Escabeche


  • Mackerel in Olive Oil


  • Mackerel in Primivera Tomato Sauce


  • “Peixe espada” in Olive Oil (the package says this is Black scabbardfish, but the translation is Swordfish)


  • Tuna belly in Olive Oil

A great Bourdain episode on point:

This is probably a case where it’s best to stick to local wine, as you did. Or similar. Volcanic soils maybe… aged Assyrtiko springs to mind.
Rose? That might work with the tomato based versions.

Love Portuguese tinned seafood. Generally go with a Portuguese white, Arinto or Alvarinho. These are high acid.

“Peixe espada” in Olive Oil (the package says this is Black scabbardfish, but the translation is Swordfish)

Espada is black scabbardfish, a specialty in Madeira.

It’s a soft, white fleshed fish.

Great eel as well

Ask Nola. She sells the stuff.

I’d go with any some of the whites mentioned and even consider reds. Some of that stuff is pretty strong and oily, so it can handle a bigger wine.

Fino?

Thanks for the responses. I hadn’t considered fino. Coastal and Volcanic wines for sure.

While fino and manzanilla are great options I’ve found Vouvray to pair well with Nola’s sardines and mackerel.

Nice thread. My suitcase is always loaded with conservas every time I come back from Portugal. The ventresca (tuna belly) is lights out delicious with Champagne, just fork some onto a toast point and you’re set. There are a couple brands that do sea bass in oil, which is phenom with assyrtiko (mentioned above), and comparable whites from Chablis or Vinho Verde. IIRC, there’s a resto/wine bar in the EV that specializes in these things as part of their overall wine and food program.

Fino Sherry seems like the obvious choice. Most wines would either be overpowered by the food or clash with it.

One of my favorite things to eat at L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer and L’Avant Comptoir du Marche are sardines from Yves Camdeborde’s cousin swimming in Bordier butter, washed down with still or sparkling dry Loire Chenin. A match made in heaven.
2019-09-24 13.32.56-1.jpg

Sounds awesome, Mark. Thanks