I’ve thought for years that the best wines coming out of California are the historic field blends. My budding wine passion in the early 1990s was shaped in part by Ridge, Ravenswood and Zin in general. While there are other producers that do this well, I’m not sure anyone has devoted almost their entire winery to the pursuit and preservation of historic field blends better than Morgan. And these really are his best wines. Yes, I like the Cabs, waffle a bit on the syrah, and have tried some interesting whites, but this is where Morgan makes legend. I really do believe we will be - well, I’ll be dead - reading about Bedrock, its field blends, and what Morgan and Chris have been doing here, 40, 50+ years from now sorta the way my generation reads about Mondavi. I really do believe that. If you are not on this list, the only California list that I am on, I think you should consider it, this is best of class.
Here is Morgan’s note from 2015:
2014 Oakville Farmhouse Heritage Wine: It is hard not to slobber all over myself when I talk about this vineyard and the resulting wine. The little two acre patch of vines, planted in the 1930’s, sits at the foot of Futo and Harlan and catty-corner to To Kalon. It is a patchwork quilt of different varieties- Negrette, Mondeuse, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Ruby Cabernet, Malvasia Bianca, Chenin Blanc, Colombard, and more. And despite this assortment it just reeks of old school Oakville wine- fresh currant, underbrush, pencil lead, camphor and more. This one is going to need some time to unwind but should reward aging.
Powerful nose of camphor, brambly black fruits, pepper spice. Full range of the fruit color spectrum on the palate, including a tinge of leafy tobacco green and dry forrest floor. Really full-bodied, big pepper kick and still quite chewy. This wine remains a baby. While intellectually I want to identify and specify the unique, complex cepage, with some seemingly inapposite varieties, my soul says this wine is one seamless whole, stop thinking and just enjoy. Quite tannic, but they are on the sweet side and will integrate well with time, no fear of overpowering this fruit-dominant wine. I would not say this wine is ready, perhaps in 4-5 years, but damn is it working well with grilled sausage and a parmigiana risotto that I just made myself - yes proud to fend for myself - while my wife is in Breckenridge with the girls. I’m stuck at home with two stinky dogs, a windy cold day in otherwise generally sunny Florida, a messy kitchen (my mess), and this really incredible bottle of wine that will likely not see the light of day . . . .
Kudos, Bedrock.
(94 pts.)
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