When you focus on the producers in Mauves and nearby you occasionally forget about the size and variability of the St-Jo appellation. I think it is safe to say that even besides qualitative comparison there is something different about the wines from the original parts and the rest. That’s not to say that good wines are not coming from the north, as they most definitely are. Still, I just could not find much charm in this one and I wonder if its reductive state is only partially to fault.
I would love to hear if someone here has experience with less recent vintages of this wine. I have this producer’s 2015 Mairlant bottling in the cellar so perhaps that will tell me more but right now I’m not so sure what to think of this bottle and Villard in general.
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2016 François Villard St. Joseph Poivre et Sol - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (15.2.2020)
Decanted for two hours, not that it did much! For sure Syrah is notoriously reductive at times but this one is really playing hard to get. First and foremost black pepper-y on the nose with notes of blackberry and bouillon as the supporting cast. Some oak, definitely. Nothing wrong with the nose, except that it’s just not very expressive. The palate is relatively full-bodied on the entry. Quite structured, this has a well-defined tannic frame and a good deal of dark-as-night fruit around it, although it is the structure that is dominating right now without a doubt. Powerful and grippy, this is no delight on its own currently but with a nicely marbled and fatty entrecôte it is enjoyable. Without food it comes off as somewhat challenging and the finish gets a bit austere. The flavor profile certainly is on the simple/monotone side. To be honest I am not sure whether this should just be considered too young or judged by how it is in the glass. I’m certainly no expert on how these northern Saint-Josephs age so I think I need to give it the benefit of the doubt. There are some good building blocks here so maybe it will develop into something more interesting eventually.
Posted from CellarTracker