TN: Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett 'Goldtröpfchen' 2018

[David Strange]

Afternoon all,

This is both the best and cheapest wine I have purchased this year (yes, I know it is only 3/2/2020), I had to share this note as the wine is so wonderful:

Riesling Kabinett 'Goldtröpfchen' 2018, Schloss Lieser

Good god, what a nose! It is an incredibly focussed beam of precision, strung to an incredible degree of nervy tension. How thrilling! How exciting!

This piercing, penetrating point of power exudes tightly bundled, intense packets of gloriously sun-slathered fruit – pink grapefruit, mango, passion fruit, pineapple, papaya – all this gloriously exotic fruit whilst never losing a scintilla of its pure elegance and refinement.

There is a powerful, slate-y minerality as well, intertwined with all that lovely fruit, tied up with a candied like concentration and a character that makes it clear this wine will be joyfully, wonderfully charged with delicious acidity and limitless, lively purity.

Wow. WOW. This smells so good I almost not dare taste it. Almost…

Pow! Zap! Wehay! What a palate!!

It is off-dry, a true Kabinett, and that helps the flavours of the ravishingly exotic fruit expand to fill your palate. The same kind of fruit that was on the nose, these lovely sensations are sapid and exciting whilst being nicely plumped-up by this Goldtröpfchen Kabinett being in its very young ‘puppy fat’ stage of is evolution. The fruit is light-years beyond attractive.

Associated with the truly winsome fruit one gets a feeling of astringency at the sides of one’s palate, as if one is getting a taste of the fruit skins as well and the fresh flesh of the fruit. This adds to the incredible harmony of the wine.

Then there is the stunning minerality that infuses the wine. It is a powerful, profound slate-y character, fulsome in character but completely in balance with the tight-knit intensity of the wine.

The slate flavours give the palate a grip. A taut intensity that tells you this wine will never become flabby, no matter how long you age it (assuming your cellar is up top the job).

Acidity is one of the main parts of the fun with a Kabinett, one wants them fresh and crisp. Even though the Goldtröpfchen is a sun trap that produces ripe grapes, and this is a reasonably ripe Kabinett, not a molecule too much of acidity has been ripened out of this Schloss Lieser example.

It has the focus and precision of multiple lasers aimed at a microscopic glass bubble of helium in order to initiate fusion in the bubble. To say this was an effulgently active virtual reality erotica codpiece would be massively downplaying the energetic thrills one gets from it. It is this acidity that makes this Schloss Lieser Goldtröpfchen 2018 a true Kabinett of exquisite poise and perfect balance.

These features do not exist as discrete entities. Rather they are bound together in a seamless whole. That creates a synergistic magic of its own.

Firstly, as I have stated, all these characteristics exist in perfect balance with each other. The harmony is faultless. Secondly, and more impressively, their interaction creates a savoury, almost dry character that you feel in your cheeks and on your gums as you swirl it around your mouth.

I like such savoury characteristics in wine. They speak to me as marks of a really classy wine. These savoury qualities persist and persist, along with all the other flavours and sensations present in this Goldtröpfchen Kabinett 2018, for an amazing amount of time after you have swallowed it. The finish is long and exquisite.

This wine is of supreme style and quality in every possible manner one can analyse wine. It is a glimpse of a timeless world of near perfection. It seems a shame to mention money when one is dealing with wine of such coruscating beauty, but this is probably the best bargain I will ever recommend. The quality/price ratio is incalculable.

This costs £15.50 (~$20.20) in the UK from The Wine Society.

The Editor and I tasted this very carefully, discussed it fully, analysed its every detail and finished the bottle in 9 minutes and 39.6 seconds.

Cheers,
Davy.

[Corey N.]

Schloss Lieser is lovely and your note sublime.

Thank you for posting, old bean.

[David Strange]

Schloss Lieser is lovely and your note sublime.

Thank you for posting, old bean.

My pleasure, young Corey!

Writing the note was a fun alternative to sleeping last night. I would have preferred to have slept, but the great god of sleep chose not to visit. Second night in a row, pah!

I really enjoyed that wine. I love that vineyard so much.

[J. Rock]

I have some of the 2018 Goldtröpfchen Spatlase and I think it's a great, powerful wine! I don't think I've had the Kabinett yet, but now I'll need to seek it out.

[David Strange]

I have some of the 2018 Goldtröpfchen Spatlase and I think it's a great, powerful wine! I don't think I've had the Kabinett yet, but now I'll need to seek it out.

Jordan,

I'm extremely jealous of you having the Spatlese! I'd love some! More seriously, that must be lovely. I mostly bought Kabinetts from 18 - I'm just a dedicated follower of fashion! I like the tension of the Kabinetts in 18 - both ripe and fiercely acidic. Enjoy your Spatlese!

Cheers,
Davy.

[J. Rock]

I didn't take any notes when I tasting the Spatlese, but from what I remember, it's a big, rich and round Spatlese, but it's still balanced with enough acidity (though, doesn't have the electricity of the last few vintages). I'm a big fan of Schloss Lieser. I got several of their 2018s, including their Lieser Niederberg Helden Auslese Lange Goldkapsel, which I'm tryyyying to lay down for many years (but it's a challenge).

[David Strange]

I didn't take any notes when I tasting the Spatlese, but from what I remember, it's a big, rich and round Spatlese, but it's still balanced with enough acidity (though, doesn't have the electricity of the last few vintages). I'm a big fan of Schloss Lieser. I got several of their 2018s, including their Lieser Niederberg Helden Auslese Lange Goldkapsel, which I'm tryyyying to lay down for many years (but it's a challenge).

Jordan,

Schloss Lieser make a fantastic Niederberg Helden Auslese Lange Goldkapsel. I once got a double magnum of it, I forget the vintage. What I do remember is adoring my first glass and feeling a bit ill on my sixth or seventh...


Anon,
Davy.

[Brian S t o t t e r]

Skurnik says we won't see the 2018s state-side until the fall. Hoping some of the auslese and Doctor bottlings make it across.

[Russell Faulkner]

Thanks for the amazing note.

Brian, the Doctor GG was only sold in a mixed 6 pack or in mags at the auction in 2018 afaik. There were tiny quantities of Doctor Kabi.

[David Strange]

Skurnik says we won't see the 2018s state-side until the fall. Hoping some of the auslese and Doctor bottlings make it across.

Brian,

Don't think you're buying down-market with the Kabinetts - this was fabulous, really, really fabulous. Making a good Kabinett is far harder than making a good Auslese, those can be churned out until the cows come home. I'm told, by a serious Mosel grower, that Kabinetts are their best wines but they have to sell them at a loss because everyone thinks they are just cheap crap. This is not true, as this bottle amply demonstrates. I've got so much wine it is stacked up in my dining room, I cannot get more! So this year I bought fifteen bottles of Kabinett (one was a Lauer Auction Kabinett) and two bottles of Spatlese. My partner is livid with me!

Anon,
Davy.

[Brian S t o t t e r]

Skurnik says we won't see the 2018s state-side until the fall. Hoping some of the auslese and Doctor bottlings make it across.

Brian,

Don't think you're buying down-market with the Kabinetts - this was fabulous, really, really fabulous. Making a good Kabinett is far harder than making a good Auslese, those can be churned out until the cows come home. I'm told, by a serious Mosel grower, that Kabinetts are their best wines but they have to sell them at a loss because everyone thinks they are just cheap crap. This is not true, as this bottle amply demonstrates. I've got so much wine it is stacked up in my dining room, I cannot get more! So this year I bought fifteen bottles of Kabinett (one was a Lauer Auction Kabinett) and two bottles of Spatlese. My partner is livid with me!

Anon,
Davy.

David,

My wife and I visited Schloss Lieser in April 2018. We love their wines across the spectrum, and I have several kabinetts and Spatlese from them, however it is so hard to find auslese and their GGs, which I enjoyed quite a lot. I have a single bottle of the 2016 Doctor GG stashed away from our trip, wishing I had enough space in my wine check and other luggage to bring back more.

[David Strange]

Skurnik says we won't see the 2018s state-side until the fall. Hoping some of the auslese and Doctor bottlings make it across.

Brian,

Don't think you're buying down-market with the Kabinetts - this was fabulous, really, really fabulous. Making a good Kabinett is far harder than making a good Auslese, those can be churned out until the cows come home. I'm told, by a serious Mosel grower, that Kabinetts are their best wines but they have to sell them at a loss because everyone thinks they are just cheap crap. This is not true, as this bottle amply demonstrates. I've got so much wine it is stacked up in my dining room, I cannot get more! So this year I bought fifteen bottles of Kabinett (one was a Lauer Auction Kabinett) and two bottles of Spatlese. My partner is livid with me!

Anon,
Davy.

David,

My wife and I visited Schloss Lieser in April 2018. We love their wines across the spectrum, and I have several kabinetts and Spatlese from them, however it is so hard to find auslese and their GGs, which I enjoyed quite a lot. I have a single bottle of the 2016 Doctor GG stashed away from our trip, wishing I had enough space in my wine check and other luggage to bring back more.

Brian,

Their GG's are some of the best, it is true. Thomas Haag is as skilled as his dad, whom I was lucky enough to visit twice.

I find trips to wine regions seriously stress my luggage and suspension (if I'm driving). The Mosel is a fabulously beautiful place, and the wines even more beautiful.

Cheers,
Davy.

[D@vid Bu3ker]

Not everyone thinks Kabinett is cheap crap!

[David Strange]

Not everyone thinks Kabinett is cheap crap!

I certainly don't, David!

[D@vid Bu3ker]

Nor do I

[David Strange]

Nor do I

Good!

[Curtis Chen]

Been a fan of Schloss Lieser for a while. Would love to try this!

Also, Kabinetts are awesome. JJ Prum's Kabs are what got me into Riesling in the first place.

[David Strange]

Been a fan of Schloss Lieser for a while. Would love to try this!

Also, Kabinetts are awesome. JJ Prum's Kabs are what got me into Riesling in the first place.

Well said, Curtis!

[Howard Cooper]

I love Schloss Lieser wines from Kabinett on up (try one of their 2010 GKA). But, I have never seen a Goldtropfchen from the estate. Is this a new vineyard for them or have I just not seen it.

[Charlie Carnes]

Beautiful note Davey! I love Schlöss Lieser Kabinett. I have never had their Goldtröpfchen, but I can only imagine how amazing it is. Thanks!

[Howard Cooper]

Are there any German wine lovers who do not love a really good Kabinett?

[David_K]

I love Schloss Lieser wines from Kabinett on up (try one of their 2010 GKA). But, I have never seen a Goldtropfchen from the estate. Is this a new vineyard for them or have I just not seen it.

He has been buying parcels in a whole bunch of new vineyards lately. Believe he has had Goldtropfchen for only a couple of years. But I haven't seen it either. Uneven distribution in the States though hopefully that will change with Skurnik having picked up their portfolio.

[Brian S t o t t e r]

I love Schloss Lieser wines from Kabinett on up (try one of their 2010 GKA). But, I have never seen a Goldtropfchen from the estate. Is this a new vineyard for them or have I just not seen it.

New-er. I tasted their 2016s at the estate, including the Goldtropfchen GG and Kabinett (the Kabinett was awesome). I don't recall that they made wines from that vineyard prior to 2016.

[Brian S t o t t e r]

Are there any German wine lovers who do not love a really good Kabinett?

Now I want a Kabinett. Have had plenty of good Kabinett but need to find a really good Kabinett and one that's ready for drinking now (most of mine are 2015 and 2016 vintage).

[D@vid Bu3ker]

Oldest Goldtropfchen I have from Lieser is a 2016 Spatlese.

[David Strange]

Beautiful note Davey! I love Schlöss Lieser Kabinett. I have never had their Goldtröpfchen, but I can only imagine how amazing it is. Thanks!

Thank you, Charlie!

Goldtröpfchen is a brilliant vineyard to own a piece of, the wines have such an intensity to them - even this Kabinett seemed like drops of gold.

It's used to be that the only passable Goldtröpfchen was made by Rheinholt Haart, but his wines were pretty ordinary. Now there's Lieser, Spater-Viet and Julian Haart (who makes stunning wines), at least. It's good that this high-quality vineyard is getting the serious growers it deserves!

Anon,
Davy.

[Russell Faulkner]

And Max Kilburg!

[David Strange]

And Max Kilburg!

That's a really brilliant name, but I've never heard of the fellow - thank you for enlightening me!

[Russell Faulkner]

Young guy, excellent wines, worked with Julian Haart. We have drunk through 2 x 18 bottle cases of a mix of 16-18s.

[David Strange]

Young guy, excellent wines, worked with Julian Haart. We have drunk through 2 x 18 bottle cases of a mix of 16-18s.

Thanks for the heads up!

[D@vid Bu3ker]

Rheinhold Haart ordinary?

Umm...no!

[Russell Faulkner]

I don’t care for the wines very much. More stylistic than qualitative though.

[David Strange]

I don’t care for the wines very much. More stylistic than qualitative though.

I find them a bit low acidity and a touch flabby. Not a fan.

[Russell Faulkner]

I’m in the same camp totally. The (very) sweet wines can be good though. I have some 2011 TBA to start drinking.

[D@vid Bu3ker]

I really love the R. Haart Ohligsberg wines.

Honestly, I tend to find Goldtropfchen (from everyone) too low in acid these days.

[Fred Bower]

A very Strange note indeed.

Chapeau!
fred

[David Strange]

A very Strange note indeed.

Chapeau!
fred

Thank you, Fred!

[G. Shields]

Nice note and thread!

I checked into the Julian Haart 2018 Goldtropchen kabinett back in December. Here’s my note from CT, fwiw:

‘Very shy nose, hardly gives up much, just a few hints of ripe orchard fruit tinged with citrus and honey. Palate is electric though, with great tingling acidity bouncing off lightly sweet citrus fruit and plenty of stony minerals. I feel this needs plenty of air and/or a couple of years in cellar to blossom into something very fine. 91 today, but loads of upside, I reckon’

Seems like that electric palate is the common theme here. The haart was pretty closed though and could use time or lots of air.

I also have a couple of Nik Weis St Urbans Hof kabs from 2017 from this vineyard. Any ideas how this producer compares to Lieser or Haart?

And yes, I also throw my hat in as a Kabinett lover!

[M.Kaplan]

Schloss Lieser is lovely and your note sublime.

Thank you for posting, old bean.

Agree!

[Brian S t o t t e r]

I don’t care for the wines very much. More stylistic than qualitative though.

I find them a bit low acidity and a touch flabby. Not a fan.

Um, what?

Went to Reinhold Haart's estate and tasted through the whole line-up of 2016s. Not lacking in acidity and vibrancy at all.

[G. Shields]

As a follow-up question to my earlier post, i’ld be really interested to understand better how Kabinett’s develop with age.

I think I have my head around how dry Riesling develops and in terms of sweets beginning to know what to expect from Loire Chenin as it matures but kabinett?

[D@vid Bu3ker]

As a follow-up question to my earlier post, i’ld be really interested to understand better how Kabinett’s develop with age.

**Warning - gross generalization ahead - Warning**

Same general development process as other German Rieslings. Kabinetts may get to certain stages a bit faster than say a spatlese, but they generally go through a closed period a couple of years after the vintage, re-emerge 3-5 years after that, then head slowly to maturity over the next 10 years or so. High quality kabinett ages remarkably well. I routinely drink 15-20 year old (or older) kabinett that has years of life left.

[Claus Jeppesen]

Also Goldtröpfchen Riesling Großes Gewächs trocken 2018 is truly awesome your Davyness

[Charlie Carnes]

Julian Haart (who makes stunning wines), at least. It's good that this high-quality vineyard is getting the serious growers it deserves!

Anon,
Davy.

1000% agree

[Russell Faulkner]

The same is true of the Doctor. Very glad Thomas Haag is making wine there.

[Howard Cooper]

Are there any German wine lovers who do not love a really good Kabinett?

Now I want a Kabinett. Have had plenty of good Kabinett but need to find a really good Kabinett and one that's ready for drinking now (most of mine are 2015 and 2016 vintage).

Just try a 2015 Kabinett from Zilliken or Reinhold Haart. Wow wines.

[Howard Cooper]

Beautiful note Davey! I love Schlöss Lieser Kabinett. I have never had their Goldtröpfchen, but I can only imagine how amazing it is. Thanks!

Thank you, Charlie!

Goldtröpfchen is a brilliant vineyard to own a piece of, the wines have such an intensity to them - even this Kabinett seemed like drops of gold.

It's used to be that the only passable Goldtröpfchen was made by Rheinholt Haart, but his wines were pretty ordinary. Now there's Lieser, Spater-Viet and Julian Haart (who makes stunning wines), at least. It's good that this high-quality vineyard is getting the serious growers it deserves!

Anon,
Davy.

IMHO, Reinhold Haart wines are fabulous.

[Brian S t o t t e r]

Are there any German wine lovers who do not love a really good Kabinett?

Now I want a Kabinett. Have had plenty of good Kabinett but need to find a really good Kabinett and one that's ready for drinking now (most of mine are 2015 and 2016 vintage).

Just try a 2015 Kabinett from Zilliken or Reinhold Haart. Wow wines.

Have them but afraid they still may be shut down/not ready.

[David Strange]

Now I want a Kabinett. Have had plenty of good Kabinett but need to find a really good Kabinett and one that's ready for drinking now (most of mine are 2015 and 2016 vintage).

Just try a 2015 Kabinett from Zilliken or Reinhold Haart. Wow wines.

Have them but afraid they still may be shut down/not ready.

Recently I've had some 15 Kabinetts and Spatlese from JJ Prum - they've been delicious! If Prum is accessible, I would guess most people's wines would be.

Anon,
D.

[A.Gillette]

Thanks for the really nice note David. I’m a big fan of the Schloss Lieser wines. In some past vintages I’ve found the kabinett to tend toward spatlese (but they’ve been wonderful nonetheless) but I agree that the ‘18 kabinett are proper kabinett. There is a 2018 Graacher Domprobst Kabinett Auktion that I was really enamored with.
Alex