TN: Condrieus from Perret, Gérard and Vernay

From where I am sitting Condrieu does not seem to enjoy great popularity. Obviously it is a small appellation and the wines are somewhat on the pricey side but for many they seem to be something to actively avoid as unappealing, alcoholic caricatures that lack the acidity to keep them fresh and food-friendly. My own views are not as extreme and certainly I had enjoyed a number of them before this tasting of ours took place but this line-up most definitely gave me a newfound appreciation for the grape variety and the region.

The WOTN for me was without a doubt the 2004 Vernon - the best Condrieu I have tried to date - but some around the table gave my personal #2, Perret’s 2015 Clos Chanson, the highest praise. I think besides the past its peak 1996 Vernon all the wines were very good and despite high alcohol levels they did not seem hot or unbalanced. The ones with some age offered a more savory side of the variety and as such were better suited for food, but all of them worked very well with soft cheeses (we had Pérail, Brebiou and Valençay). If I were to buy one of these wines for the cellar it would probably be the very refined Clos Chanson, given it’s great QPR at the domaine (30 €).

• 2015 André Perret Condrieu Clos Chanson - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (2.2.2020)
  The nose provides Viognier’s youthful exuberance at its finest while managing to be supremely elegant with its apricot-driven fruits, some floral notes, moderate oak and slight smokiness. Immensely attractive and all class. On the palate wonderfully rich, just very opulent but still in no way over the top despite 15% ABV. An unbelievable combination of decadence and freshness. Some warmth and spiciness that fit in well. Probably would age like a champion but who cares when it offers such a pleasure right now.
• 2017 Xavier Gerard Condrieu Côte Chatillon - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (2.2.2020)
  Massively floral and fragrant on the nose, this just swarms from the glass and fills up the space with its massive aromatics. In your face style, no doubt, this wine is not about taking any prisoners. On the palate viscous and mouth-filling with very ripe fruit. Benefits greatly from having a spicy edge that somehow helps to keep the overt fruitiness in check. Rich yet vibrant, not flabby at all. Promising but a bit difficult to approach right now.
• 2012 Francois Gerard Condrieu Côte Chatillon - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (2.2.2020)
  Notably timid and shy on the nose. Hard lemon candy fruit and beeswax, turning towards savory. Somewhat fragrant with a yoghurt-like note. Nothing showy, but quite stylish. On the palate fairly rich yet surprisingly linear and firm, if there was some baby fat that is no largely gone. Still it has this freshness and is very drinkable. Long finish.
• 2009 Francois Gerard Condrieu Côte Chatillon - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (2.2.2020)
  Floral and fragrant on the nose, very bright. Beautifully zesty citrusy fruit, a bit on the savory side without a doubt. Very attractive. On the palate mid-weight with convincing density and good acidic lift. There is some nice tension to it. Still on its way up but in a very good phase. Clean on the finish with some spicy bite. A relative ballerina, nothing is sticking out here and this ranks very high in terms of drinkability.
• 2004 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Coteau de Vernon - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (2.2.2020)
  An aromatic explosion on the nose with wonderfully extravagant, tangy apricot-driven fruit. So complex and expressive with judicious oak and some almond paste. On the palate as captivating as they come with downright addictive, massively hedonistic ripe fruit. Large-scaled with terrific drive and power. At its peak, quite savory but has not dried up at all. Combines high levels of ripeness and concentration with incredible freshness resulting in a singular experience.
• 1996 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Coteau de Vernon - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (2.2.2020)
  Seemed off early on but did not really turn any worse with time and in the end was deemed just old with some old way mustiness. The fruit on the nose has lost much of its sweetness and has a distinct tomato leaf edge. The nose is bright does not show much classic Viognier notes. On the palate the wines has dropped most of its fat and the fruit has dried quite a bit. Drinkable, but definitely past its peak. Surprisingly enough the closest thing to the tomato leaf note here I can think of is 1997 vintage blue Chimay enjoyed in 2018.
• 2011 Xavier Gerard Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (2.2.2020)
  Ripe, almost liquor-like blackberry fruit, wet leaves and olives on the nose. On the palate youthful and energetic more than anything with plentiful tangy dark fruit. Sort of sweetish when it comes to the fruit expression but still what I would call a savory wine. Very good acidity. No tertiary development but seems to be moving to the right direction. Probably peaking in 7-8 years.

Posted from CellarTracker

Very nice - don’t see many panel tasting notes of Condrieu AOC !

I like the stuff but do not cellar it. Buy a bottle here or there and then drink up pretty much right away.

btw I’ve had some of Perret’s white viognier driven Cotes du Rhones and they have some Condrieu like flavor to them. but hardly ever see them state side.

Glad to read up on the TNs. But, panel tasting notes? In forums like this, I don’t even see them as the starter white in Northern Rhone offlines!

Btw, me too! My m.o. is buy them if I ever see them on local shelves and then drink them right away at home, alone.

I recall a couple of Vernay’s Condrieu from early 2000’s that were truly enjoyed years ago in a restaurant in Ampuis, close to where they make 'em.

That idea of ooey gooey cheeses is a good one for these.

Some years a friend closed out a wine dinner with a La Doriane and an Epoisses + tete de moines

Unf, I would have to double bag an leftovers before putting it in the family fridge.

I guess in one way I should be happy that Condrieu is not commented on much, or mentioned heavily, since its already expensive enough…

Yup, I first drank some from the 90’s at lunch in a one-star restaurant that used to be right on the water there. I followed that up by cellaring some, and I still drink them from time to time, but since the white burgundy bug bit me, I often find them a little heavy and floral.

Thanks for the notes!! I love Condrieu and we buy a few every year to cellar. Your notes sorta confirm some of my experience that they are generally best at 7-15 years (with some wiggle room to be sure). I’d also recommend Villard’s condrieu and even some of the non-condrieu viogniers.

I don’t think I’ve seen a CdR from Perret but the IGP Viognier is good for the price. Overall I think he produces nice wines from top to bottom.

I find Epoisses scary for any wine besides red Burgundy. Did the pairing work?

It’s interesting. To me it seems that Condrieu lives in the shadows, away from all the positive attention that is now directed at the reds of the Northern Rhône. Many seem to enjoy the reds when they are at their most “Burgundian” (Jamet, Allemand, Gonon etc) but you don’t really find an expression of Condrieu that would draw similar comparisons to White Burgundy (and nor should you find!). Even the Perret’s wine that I commented as elegant and refined is still high in alcohol and highly recognizable as Viognier, you will not fool anyone with it in a blind tasting.

Was the restaurant the Beau Rivage or perhaps its predecessor?

Not sure if I’ve had Villard but I did enjoy his buddy’s Cuilleron’s whites, including also the sweet Condrieu.

Super notes, Ilkka. Condrieu is hard to get up here, but even so, I should stock some once again—I have always enjoyed good renditions of it. That Vernay sounds like a dream wine.

Salud,

Mike

The Coteau de Vernon…is, IMO, the best wine of Condrieu…and , unfortunately, priced accordingly. It can age beautifully. (Their “regular” Condrieu is great, too.)

I don’t have nearly the experience you have with this appellation, but this bottling is also the best I have had…by far.

Wish I could still afford them…

Especially the Vernon… but…

I always thought of Condrieu/viognier as the too trendy school kid who was the free spirit from art class but also a genius at math. Prices have always been high and the quality middling-to-average, but I think it is going in a better direction. Like the others, I drink about 1 a year, usually when the warmth of summer begins to flow through the veins. Writers have pounded into our heads the idea that these never age, so drink them up right away (except for Chateau Grillet for some odd reason) and so I usually do.

Restaurant was actually just across the river in Vienne called La Pyramide.

In my estimate, I’ve probably drank in my lifetime more Northern Rhone whites, as well as CDP/CdR whites, during travels in France than here at home in the US. It just goes with my preference for drinking local regional stuff when on travel and I’m not saying I drank these in great quantities (if I can recall them all, I can probably count with my fingers how many I’ve had). Another factor is that these whites are seemingly not readily available in my local stores or nor offered in most of my local restaurant lists.

Ah, ok. Never been there but as it happens met their team of sommeliers by accident when visiting Xavier Gerard a couple of years ago. I am definitely with you, always interested to drink local when in wine regions.