Earlier this week, the local distributor kindly put on a trade tasting focusing on 2018 Austrian offerings, but also with a smattering of German Rieslings and 2017 selections. I took a quick work break to attend, and so my TNs are few and brief. My failure to taste something was not indicative of negative impressions- merely a matter of not having time to visit everything. Scores in brackets as I was tasting and spitting very small samples.
NV Aubry Champagne Brut
A pretty nose of apples, pears, sweet lemons, same on palate with good bright lime-driven acids, mid-weight, light bread notes, very attractive and could do with a little cellaring.
[***+]
2018 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg
citrus and melon on the genteel nose, light grass note, on the palate a bit aloof at this point but showing some sweet rounded orange notes, good firm acids on the finish.
[***+], 2025+
2018 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg
lively nose of sweet earth, limes and limestone, on the palate very young and quite forceful, clay notes, berries, good length, overall quite good and in need of some cellar time.
[****], 2025+
2018 von Winning Estate Riesling Trocken
bright orange and lemon notes on the nose, on the palate fresh and light, grass notes, attractive citrus fruits, tightens up on the good long finish, serious QPR here and yet another 2018 Trocken that makes a good gateway into developing an appreciation for the drier wines, could use a little cellar time.
[***+], 2023+
2018 von Winning Leinhohle 1er Lage Riesling Trocken
soaring nose with lemon and floral hints, on the palate slightly sweet in the center leading into a good long dry finish, peach notes, fine depth, very nice and worthy of a little rest in the cellar.
[****], 2025+
2017 Ziereisen Viviser Chasselas
one of the most unusual wines I have ever tasted- and I have to wonder if the singularity of the 2017 vintage may impact this showing, on the nose- jarred maraschino cherries and hot chocolate, on the palate very dry with an admirable long finish, a particular- almost peculiar- intensity to the fruit, a most unusual array of flavors- meaty tones combined with dark berry and red fruit of an intensity to suggest tomatoes, it reminded me of steak and red gravy, another commented it was the scent as you add condiments to a burger fresh off the grill, there is nothing wrong here- the wine is very nicely balanced, well made with no flaws and quite intense, but for the moment it would seem to be in a very unusual place- and one that inspires the imagination for the days to come, I did not order many wines today- but a few bottles of this are going into my cellar to see what time may bring.
[**+?], if this sorts itself out as I hope, then my score will seem very stingy in time, 2025+
2018 Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese #5
a very quiet and undeveloped nose, earth tones dominate, sweet orchard fruits, on the palate peaches and citrus, quite sweet for a Spatlese- almost to true Auslese level, white pears, beeswax, fine long finish, quite good.
[****]
2018 Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese #10
old school petrol tones on the nose, rose petals, dark citrus, on the palate very primary but presenting itself with the elegance and subtlety of an aged wine, honey notes, peaches, honeysuckle, so very elegant, long and achingly seamless finish, tranquil and effortless, it is very difficult to put into words just how beautiful and endearing this wine is already, and time can only refine these qualities even further, along with Selbach-Oster’s Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese * (and probably at least one of AJ Adam’s wines when I revisit them after they have a chance to settle down) this is one of the handful of truly special Rieslings I have come across in what I consider a beautiful and classic vintage.
[*****], 2025+, it will go the distance but I suspect it will remain beautiful all along the way and be ready sooner than usual for a great Auslese.
2018 Bernhard Ott Gruner Veltliner “Fass 4”
zesty and almost spicy nose, white cherries, berries, on the palate very aloof at present, light and elegant, good long finish, very promising but this needs some time.
[***+]
2018 Bernhard Ott Gruner Veltliner “Der Ott”
ethereal peach nose, loads of honeysuckle, lemon grass notes, on the palate a firm red earth note underlying the sweet and charming fruit and keeping the wine nicely balanced, great wine- needs some cellar time.
[****], 2025+