Here is a summation of the event we did yesterday. I was able to retaste about 1/2 the wines again today, as some of the bottles didn’t go home with the Berserkers when they said goodbye last night. So, some of the TNs below will have more depth, as I was able to get after the wines again this afternoon to check on them with a full 24 hours of air. Of note, and I say this because to me this is salient for my own notes, I clearly do better work when I can taste wines over a spectrum of time and develop a full view into the wine’s expression. To me, this is how you can asses the craft, slowly and with time and thought to really see what is in the glass. I just can’t sit down and do 20, 30 wine anymore, nor do I like the idea of it for appraising wines.
The other thing I dug about yesterday is we started at 1PM. To be sitting at my dining room table in the afternoon, in the midst of doing Alpine and Horseshoe blind, with a bunch of Wine Berserker and Falltacular palates, was bitchen. We kept the table small, just 8 of us, we flighted everything single blind (which is how I mostly taste now when more than one wine is in the mix), and we have the cool benefit of doing this in the daylight. I’m intrigued and moved by this idea of daytime tastings and I’ll likely move the next one to Noon, to really get the advantage of doing the entire next event during the day. My senses are more tuned in, I just dug the premise.
As for some high level conclusions, aside from the detailed notes below–and I hope those at the table last night will invest the time to post some impressions here–I note the following:
Blanc de Blancs sparkler. A mixed review from my POV. Let’s see what the subsequent releases look like but if we’re in the $80 price tag, I want the wine to see the project improve in complexity. There is a lot of really bad-ass Champagne/Bubbly available now, that is farmed with care and without chemical BS, in the 50-80 dollar range. If Rhys is going to compete, they will want to ratchet up what’s in the final product.
Vintages. The 2015 is tight, and we did listen to Kevin Harvey when he recommenced we D/Q the 2014s from the lineup, which we replaced with the 2010s, which was smart. We did press on against his advice and do the 2015s, which were tight. I did notice the Horseshoe loosened up today, but the Alpine is still coiled pretty tight. The 2010s seems pretty accessible now, and the 2012s are drinking beautifully, with a long ways to go. The 2008s were revealing for the power and aging finesse they are showing–these are bitchen wines. Vintage does matter.
Alpine versus Horseshoe. It’s gonna depend on what you like. Alpine seems more stuffed and sexy to me, whereas Horseshoe is more linear, more savory. Vintage also makes a difference but I do see the vineyards diverging across what you want in Pinot Noir. I did prefer Horseshoe in a couple vintages, yet Alpine in others. The conclusion for me is to keep buying both, and in multiple bottles, as these for me are where I want to keep exploring Rhys. I can only drink and buy so much still wine every year and so my approach will stay with the focus and support of these two plots going forward, with perhaps a sprinkling of Porkie Hill.
Blah blah…I hope you enjoy these notes and thanks for reading.
RHYS @ MY PLACE–PART 5 - My House In The South OC (1/12/2020)
This is the continuation of the Rhys series at my house. For Part 5, I made an intention to keep the event small. The difference is that when we did the most recent iteration of this series back in October, we had about 30 bottles open, mainly 2013 vintage, but we had about 25 people in attendance. Last night, we put an intention to keep the table small, so we had just 8 of us, working through flights of mainly two wines, with a focused look at Alpine and Horseshoe. We did mix in a Swan Terrace for kicks but mainly this was about Alpine and Shoe. We also took a look at the new Blanc de Blancs, and we had a few extra non-Rhys things in our glasses, too. Finally we had Maison in Dana Point cater the food, which worked out well, and served as another affirming test of the restaurant who will be our Friday night Falltacular venue when we buy out the restaurant next month. Overall, a great evening and thanks to the group who attended last night, as we mixed in half of the group who mainly financed the cost of the wines, again the other half of the group who curated the wines from their cellars. This is how you bring people together and make things work with the power of collaboration.
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2007 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année Rosé - France, Champagne
This was generously brought by Bob H to our Rhys tasting yesterday, and while we did taste it and the new Rhys Bearwallow BdB side by side, there was no intent to measure either wine against the other. So, take my note here as a bonus to the Rhys BdB, which I will post on separately. According the Bollinger website (as the back label of the bottle was covered with the importer sticker), the wine is roughly 3/4 Pinot Noir and 1/4 Chardonnay, with 7 g/l dosage. The color yesterday (and today) is the subtlest of peach and light copper. Like yesterday, the wine today (which is mostly still now) shows a beautiful balance, an elegance. Tangy red fruits, some blood orange/grapefruit acidity, green apple. I just find the wine lithe and balanced, yet with complexity and flavors. My first go with this cuvee and it’s spot on delicious. I wonder what the 2008 will taste like, and it doesn’t appear it has been released yet but I’d seek this out for a great vintage like 2008 if the wine can taste this good in 2007. -
2015 Rhys Blancs de Blancs Bearwallow Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
My first bottle of two that I bought. I have been eager to try this wine, to see how the Rhys sparkling project was coming along. In addition, I am aware of the early mixed reviews on this so my intent was to block out that distraction and assess the wine for what it is. I also realize there is some bias danger here, both because I dig the Rhys wines big-time, and I also buy and drink a lot of true Champagne so the additional effort to stay transparent and fair in my own assessment here is top of mind. I tasted this wine in two stages. The first yesterday, during our Rhys tasting event at my house, using this wine as the opener for the event. My notes yesterday say steely nose, green sour apple, honeyed stone fruit and pear, and a perception that I was drinking Berarwallow Chard with bubbles, but not a wine that used Bearwallow fruit to create a sparkler. My point is that the wine yesterday seemed more like a still wine that had bubbles added rather than a wine that was seeking to express a total experience, integrating fruit and bubbles to create something more than its parts. Fast forward then to today, the wine is mostly still from the few ounces left in the bottle. Aromatically, I still dig that part of the wine, as poured blind, you could fool me this wasn’t from Avize or Vertus. Tasting the wine, I do find the wine to be lacking in complexity, today expressing an apple sauce core with a good dollop of honey mixed in, along with oranges and green apple. For me, this doesn’t remind me of the sparkling I want to drink, as it does translate to something that is perceptibly sweet. So, while I like the aromatic, I find the palate lacking in compleicity. Knowing the winery, this is a work in process, and for context, damn this is their first try. But for those who want yet another honest opinion, you now have mine.
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2016 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
I last tasted this wine during my winery visit to Rhys in the summer of 2018. I gushed about the wine in my tasting note from that visit, as the wine really wowed me. So, as part of our Rhys event here at the house yesterday, we paired this Alpine with the 2016 Horseshoe. Listed ABV is 12.7%. My notes from our tasting yesterday for the Alpine say pear, dried pineapple, yellow apple and some toasted vanilla oak on the nose. Finishes with citrus peel, spicy apple and less chiseled than the Horseshoe, with the Alpine being more showy and approachable. Retasting today from the bottle I stick in the fridge overnight, some off the new oak is still seasoning the aroma but it’s complementary, not distracting (and for what it’s worth, the oak here seems more in play than the Horseshoe, which to me showed virtually none). The structure in the Alpine here is a bit less overt than the Horseshoe, with the Alpine just richer in tone, with a light lemon curd note today, along with zesty lime and a lick of mineral in the finish. Overall, the Alpine has similar acidity to the Horseshoe in 2016, and I believe now that I prefer the Alpine at this stage, as all the pieces seem better aligned, whereas the Horseshoe is still young and grounded in intensity. -
2016 Rhys Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Bottle was opened yesterday. Listed ABV is 12.6%. My notes from our tasting say savory green apple, green banana, spicy with an intense core of citrusy energy. Finish with a light touch of pineapple, spicy with good length. We had some leftovers that I kept in the fridge overnight, so retasting today. Very similar to yesterday’s notes, and what I like about the wine is the mixture of cut/acidity and the mineral texture of the finish. This is in the leaner, more refreshing style of Chard, similar in style to what I dig and drink from Jamie Kutch’s Chardonnay. Of note too, whatever amount of oak that was put on this, I don’t sense any of its imprint here. Terrific showing and this is why I continue to buy and support the Rhys Chardonnay program.
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2015 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Bottle was opened yesterday for our Rhys tasting, and this was paired with the 2015 Horseshoe, both poured single blind. Taking my note here in two stages, let me first outline yesterday’s perceptions. I found this floral, more typical of the aromatics of Pinot Noir (as opposed to Horseshoe that was showing. a lot of graphite). Strawberry, cedar, a good amount of tannin with blue/red fruit but the wine just seemed tight (as did the Horsehshoe). Tart finish with strawberry and spice. So, retasting the wine today from the leftovers in the bottle so it’s had a solid 24 hours to enjoy some air. Aromas of red fruit jam, some spice (perhaps seasoned by the light whole cluster inclusion it saw). The palate today? Well, I can sense the fruit tones, more blue than red, but these fruits are under the structure that is still evident. Some herbal seasoning from the stems, along with game and the same soil/loam note I found in the bottle I wrote up back in April 2019. There is a lot of complexity and raw material here, and I now understand why Kevin Harvey suggested we put the 2015s aside for some more age, but I wanted to get these onto the table and give Alpine and Horseshoe a go. My belief here on the Alpine is that this is going to evolve into a great bottle, kind of like the 2012s are starting to show, so my advice is that if you open the 2015s, breathe them well or recognize the runway ahead that is promising for Alpine. -
2015 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
I last tried this at the winery in 2017, so it’s been a good piece of time since I assessed it. The bottle I am using for my note here was opened yesterday for our Rhys tasting, and this was paired with the 2015 Alpine, both poured single blind. Taking my note here in two stages, let me first outline yesterday’s perceptions. There was a distinct graphite/metal shaving aroma (and of note, I found this aromatic in the 2012 and 2010, that we also had in our event. So perhaps this is a consistent part of the Horseshoe terroir, at least on my own nose). The wine yesterday also showed a savory thread running through it, with an earthy berry. With some air, some blueberry comes through, tangy red fruits, sour cherry, and a medium weight. In retesting the wine today from the bottle leftovers, it’s had 24 hours of additional air, and based on the coiled nature of the 2015 Alpine even with the same extra air, what I find is that the Horseshoe has finally loosened up. Whereas the Alpine is still coiled and structured, the 2015 Horseshoe is much more accessible. The fruit tones are juicy, with a touch of hard candy, cherry and raspberry, even a bit creamy dare I say. Finishes with a blueberry skin, citrus and medium weight. So, everything said, the 2015 Horseshoe is beating the 2015 Alpine right now, and while the Horseshoe will age, I do think the Alpine will outlive it. Just be sure if you open the 2015 Horseshoe now that you breathe it out well, as it made a big difference here in how the wine showed.
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2012 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
From yesterday’s Rhys tasting here at the house, we paired this with the 2012 Horseshoe, both poured blind. The nose had a brown spice kind of thing, like a subtle cinnamon. Juicy, plump, watermelon, raspberry and red fruits. This was excellent, which seemed to be a consistent opinion across the table. -
2012 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
From yesterday’s Rhys event here at the house, and was poured blind side-by-side with the 2012 Alpine. The aromatics to me showed similar to the 2015 Horseshoe, with the graphite/metal shaving aroma. The wine expresses a high-toned, bright intense spicy fruit. It does also reflect some of the whole cluster, with a menthol note. Strawberry and red fruits, with a tight finish of cherry. This showed well, and alongside the 2012 Alpine, both to me show the high caliber of the 2012 vintage.
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2010 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
From our Rhys tasting yesterday we did here at the house. We single blinded this wine alongside the 2010 Horseshoe. For the 2010 Alpine, I jotted down that I found the aromatic a bit fumey, which perhaps is tied into the alcohol, which for the Alpine was a full point higher than the Horseshoe (13.7 versus 12.7). Spicy cherry, a little meaty with a pretty texture. Like with the 2010 Horseshoe, I was not able to retest either 2010 today, as the leftovers went home with other people last night. Ultimately, I preferred the Horseshoe in 2010. -
2010 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
From our Rhys tasting yesterday we did here at the house. We single blinded this wine alongside the 2010 Alpine, too. For the 2010 'Shoe, I found the wine juicy, with a berry bowl kind of flavor, along with a distinct watermelon note. Juicy, even a bit creamy, lightly jammed, too. And worth pointing out in 2010, the Horseshoe is a point lower in alcohol than the Alpine (12.7 versus 13.7). What that translates for me is enjoying the Horseshoe more than the Alpine, which was a bit richer.
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2008 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
I last had this wine 5 years ago, so it was fortunate to have this in our Rhys tasting at the house yesterday. We also poured it blind, included blind with the 2008 Horseshoe and 2008 Swan Terrace. I’ll write this up in two parts: one from my notes from yesterday and the other from tasting the wine right now from the bottle leftovers from last night. From yesterday, the wine showed a rose petal aromatic. And as with the 2014 bottle I wrote up 5 years ago, darker in color (as were all the 2008s we looked at yesterday, too). Depth, lots of color and concentration, burly and coiled. I closed my notes with the phrase “stacked and packed”. Fast forward 24 hours to today, I just poured off another 2 ounces to retry. Not getting the rose petal today, but instead the whole cluster impact, with cracked spices and some herbals. The palate on the wine today is really concentrated, with a plump, filling kind of texture that has softened some from yesterday. What I find fascinating about these 2008s is that the wines are now past a decade old and this vintage for Rhys shows their aging ability–this does not show nor taste like something going on 11 years old. This remains fresh, pure and for me no signs of any fade or aged character. Terrific. -
2008 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Of the three 2008 wines we did single blind yesterday (Alpine, Swan Terrace and Horseshoe), the latter is the only wine I did not have leftovers to try again, as some smart soul tool the bottle home with them. So, my notes that follow are just from yesterday only. Beautiful floral aromatic. Medium weight, moderate complexity, bit jammy. Dark raspberry and cherry. I did find the Alpine and Swan Terrace with 24 hours of extra air to be outstanding wines, but I cannot validate that for Horseshoe so you’ll have to take my notes as is. -
2008 Rhys Pinot Noir Swan Terrace - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Oddly, I have never tasted this wine. We included it yesterday in our Rhys tasting at the house, to be poured alongside the Horseshoe and Alpine 2008s, a three bottle flight poured single blind. Let me sketch this wine in two parts: my notes from yesterday and my notes from a pour I just made tonight from yesterday’s bottle leftovers. Yesterday I found a caramel/brewed coffee note in the aromatic. Black cherry intensity, berry jam. Tangy. Seems tight and coiled with a mineral, tangy finish. Funny, a few people at the table yesterday though this was Alpine or Horseshoe. So, fast forward to today, I am revisiting the wine again. Similar brewed coffee note, but with added florally that I did not sense yesterday. There is a density to this wine, and like the 2008 Alpine, a distinct concentration that is pretty amazing for a wine that is now over a decade old. I’d call this classy, pure, with a broad swath of red fruit that coats my palate. There is a light tang here to the fruit too, joined with a complementing acidity. Overall, this is the real deal and if this is what Swan Terrace can do with age, I can see why this plot is esteemed as it is. Beautiful. If I can find this vintage of Swan on the auction market at a good price, I am buying.
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2014 Coessens Coteaux Champenois Vendange Entière - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
The only other time I had a Cotreax Champenois was when we did Marguet’s version of it last year, also the 2014. I do think these wines take time to ponder, to get your head around, as part of me wants to think of them in Champagne terms, but these wines are distinctly not bubbly. The bottle for my note here was opened yesterday as part of our Rhys tasting. This is firm, formed by a core of crunchy red fruits, with some aspects of the texture becoming glassy, too. The aromatic has a stemmy quality, giving it some definition that I like, too. Finally, there is acidity that frames mainly the red tones, along with some blue fruit, finishing with saline-like note. This is grown in the south, not far from people like Vouette et Sorbee, Cedric Bouchard and Pierre Gerbais, from soils that are not all that different from Chablis (which is about an hour south of where this is grown). Overall, I like this wine and I wish more of these kinds of wines would make it over here to the LA area. -
2014 Marie Courtin Champagne Resonance Extra Brut - France, Champagne
Opened yesterday, as a palate cleanser to end our Rhys event. This is part of the 02/2018 disgorgement, no dosage and 100% Pinot Noir from the upper slope of the vineyard. I really like this wine, and I continue to backfill it as I drink through them. Retasting this today, the bubbles from yesterday have held up nicely, showing for me the value of the simple stopper to keep the wines fresh after opening. The aromas show crushed rock, baked bread and stone fruit. Stone fruit in the palate, like a plum, along with cinnamon, lime, raspberry and a creamy red fruited profile. Finishes with a red apple note and saline. I remain a devoted Marie-Courtin fan, as these wines consistently show me purity and flavor, and the bonus is they are farmed cleaned and made without dosage, which suits my palate and beliefs about where my wine dollars go.
Posted from CellarTracker
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I’ll add more commentary tomorrow. For now, here’s my notes: