We tried (12/18/19) a buncha Harrington Wines:
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Harrington Verdelho WalnutWashVnyd/NapaCnty (13.0%) 2018: Med.light yellow color; slight reductive/
SO2/pungent nose that clears; rather floral/gardenias/herbal/stony/chalky/bit mineral quite
intersting/attractive nose; fairly tart bright/floral/pineapple/gardenias bit stony/chalky really
lovely flavor; very long bright/pineapple/floral/brisk light earthy/chalky finish; nose a bit
reductive but really lovely flavors; an absolutely lovely white. $25.00
1a. Harrington Chard LiebelerVnyd/SantaCruzMtns (13.1%) 2018: Med.gold color; strong spicy/melony/
lemony/Chard/nutmeg/bit floral some pencilly/oak quite attractive nose; fairly tart rich/lush
ripe/melony/Chard/lemony/spicy/bit nutmeg light earthy some pencilly/oak very balanced flavor;
very long ripe/melony/Chard/lemony/spicy/floral lightly tart balanced some pencilly/oak bit
complex finish; quite an attractive balanced drinkable Chard that should improve over several
yrs; reminds a lot of the DanGehrs Chard at CongressSprings many yrs ago; some of the DavidBruce
Chards w/o the heavy oak; quite a lovely Chard. $15.00
1b. Harrington RibollaGialla ClementHills (13.2%; skin-frmtd/amphora aged) 2018:Med.gold somw hazy color;
light phenolic/resiny/skin-contact lightly floral/carnations/white pepper/RG/earthy slight stony/
honeyed/honeycomb complex nose; lightly tart/tangy/bit steely/metallic light phenolic/resiny/
skin-contact rather spicy/floral/carnations/classic RG/peppery some stony/earthy/honeycomb complex
flavor w/ little tannins; very long/lingering light floral/carnations/grapefruity/classic RG some
stony/chalky bit crunchy/lightly tart finish w/ very light tannins; no signs of oxidation whatsoever;
a beautiful example of a skin-contact RG that speaks more of Slovenia/Friuli than Calif; reminds
some of the Cowan RG; some like the SandiSkerk RG but not as phenolic; speaks more of RG than
skin-contact/phenolic white; the skin-contact gives it an additional level of complexity;
terrific RG. $15.00
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Harrington Alvarelhao SumuKawVnyd/ElDoradoCnty (13.2%) 2016: Med.color; some ElD/earthy/mushroomy
some grapey/plummy/dusty/Mourv-like bit rustic nose; bit soft fairly lush bit rustic/grapey/plummy
strong ElD/earthy/mushroomy flavor w/ light gentle tannins; very long strong earthy/mushroomy/ElD
some plummy/grapey finish w/ light tannins; speaks strongly of ElD Cnty and reminds more of ElD
Mourv than a Dao/Portugese red except for the rustic character; interesting red. $30.00
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Harrington Trousseau SilettoVnyd/SanBenitoCnty (13.0%) 2018: Med.light color; slight earthy/dusty
some plummy/bit Mourv-like bit Jura-like/bit rustic light oak fairly fragrant nose; fairly tart/
tangy light plummy/Trousseau bit Jura-like rather earthy/dusty flavor w/ ample brisk/brittle tannins;
very long tart/tangy fairly earthy/dusty/Jura-like some plummy/Trousseau light oak finish w/ some
bitey tannins; shows lots of Jura Trousseau character but not quite as coarse/rustic;
nice expression of Calif Trousseau. $30.00
3a. Harrington Gamay CalleriVnyd/SanBenitoCnty (13.2%) 2018: Med.color; rather earthy/dusty/OV some
pungent/roasted green chiles/spicy light Gamay/fruity/strawberry very much GC Bojo bit rustic very
unusual nose for Calif Gamay; lightly tart strong earthy/dusty/OV slight pungent/smokey/roasted green
chiles lightly Gamay/fruity strong SanBenito/dusty slight floral/hollyhocks very unusual flavor w/
light smooth/tangy tannins; very long/lingering strong dusty/earthy/OV slight pungent/roasted green
chiles lightly fruity/Gamay/strawberry complex finish w/ light tannins; a very exotic/unusual
expression of Calif Gamay; some like a GC Bojo but not as structured, more like a Savoie/Bugey Gamay.
$15.00
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Harrington PinotNoir CentralCoast (13.4%) 2018: Med.color; strong cherry/PN/bright bit earthy light
Burgundian/toasty/oak rather perfumed lovely nose; lightly tart strong cherry/PN light earthy light
pencilly/oak/Burgundian quite pretty flavor w/ light gentle tannins; very long bright/cherry/PN bit
earthy light pencilly/oak/bit Burgundian finish w/ light tannins; not a profound PN but quite pretty/
lively/bright & very nice drinking. $30.00
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Harrington HardLuck Calif RW (13.4%; Nebbiolo/Montepulciano) 2018: Med.color; bit floral/Nebb/lilacs
bit earthy/cherry/rustic light toasty/oak quite interesting/attractive nose; quite tart/tangy attractive
floral/lilacs/Nebb light cherry/earthy slight pencilly/oak very interesting flavor w/ light bitey
tannins; very long briight/floral/Nebb/lilacs slight cherry/earthy/rustic light oak finish w/ light
bitey tannins; speaks mostly of Nebb w/o the hard tannins and with a bit of cherry/earthy/rustic
character; quite an interesting blend. $18.25
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Harrington Nebbiolo LunaMataVnyd/PasoRobles (13.5%) 2016: Med.light color; lovely very fragrant Nebb/
floral/lilacs slight earthy bit Valtelline-like bit complex nose; fairly tart/tangy rather floral/
cherry/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal bit earthy/pungent light toasty/oak lovely flavor w/ modest hard/grippy
tannins; very long fairly strong floral/Nebb/lilacs/rose petal slight earthy/pungent fairly tart
finish w/ light gritty tannins; needs 4-8 yrs of age; quite an attractive rendition of Calif Nebb
w/ lots of floral/rose petal/cherry character; one of the best examples of Calif Nebb. $30.00
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Harrington Freisa SkowVnyd/SanBenitoCnty (13.2%) 2018: Dark color; beautiful very fragrant/perfumed
floral/lilacs/rather Nebb-like fairly spicy lovely nose; fairly tart bright/floral/lilacs/rose petal/
some Nebb-like/spicy/bit cherry bit lean flavor w/ modest brisk tannins; very long/lingering bright/
floral/cherry/lilacs zippy//brisk finish w/ some chewey tannins; a lovely expression of Freisa,
not as rich/tannic as those from Piemonte, and as good as any Piemonte versions of Freisa. $30.00
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Harrington Aglianico GianelliVnyd/TuolumneCnty (13.4%) 2015: Very dark/near black color; very strong
black cherry/blackberry/spicy bit licorice light toasty/oak absolutely lovely nose; lightly tart very
bright black cherry/blackberry/spicy/bit peppery slight chocolaty slight earthy flavor w/ light brisk
tannins; very long/lingering strong spicy/black cherry/blackberry/ripe/bit chocolaty rather lush/rich
slightly tart finish w/ light tannins; loads of black cherry character; not as rustic/earthy as
Italian Aglianico; not as structured as the Ryme Aglianico; rather big for a Harrington red; a
beautiful high-toned expression of Aglianico. $18.25
8a. Harrington Sagrantino CalleriVnyd/SanBenitoCnty (13.1%) 2018: Very dark color; fairly strong black
cherry/blackberry/Sagrantino/perfumed some earthy/loamy bit spicy/peppery bit toasty/oak somewhat
complex nose; fairly tart strong blackberry/black cherry/Sag some earthy/loamy/dusty/bit rustic
light toasty/oak flavor w/ light brisk tannins; very long strong black cherry/blackberry/Sagrantino
bit toasty/oak fairly earthy/loamy/bit rustic finish w/ light tannins; not as high-toned as most
Calif Sagrantinos and more earthy/loamy/rustic/Italianate character that suggests the rusticity of
Montefalco and speaks of SanBenityCnty; not as structured as most Montefalco Sagrantinos; quite an
interesting bit rustic red. $15.00
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Harrington Negrette CalleriVnyd/SanBenitoCnty (13.2%) 2018: Very dark/near black color; classic
Negrette/herbal/peppery/earthy/bit thyme/rosemary fairly strong nose; rather tart classic herbal/
Negrette/peppery/rosemary/thymy light earthy/dusty/pungent lovely flavor w/ modest brisk tannins;
very long herbal/Negrette/rosemary/thyme/pungent bit earthy/dusty slight rustic fairly tart finish
w/ modest tannins; a bit on the sharp/acidic side pretty classic expression of Negrette but not as
coarse/rustic as those from Fronton; quite a lovely Negrette that would play well in Toulouse. $18.25
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Harrington Fin Calif (55% CabSauv/45% Merlot; 14.1%) 2013: Dark color; some blackcurranty/Cab bit
earthy light toasty/oak rather old-timey Calif Cab nose; bit soft slight tangy/metallic strong
blackcurranty/Cab/bit spicy bit toasty/pencilly/oakflavor w/ modest smooth tannins; very long rather
blackcurranty/Cab/slight herbal light pencilly/toasty/oak slightly soft finish w/ light/gentle tannins;
a Cab that even I can like; on the light-weight side for Calif but quite an attractive old-timey
Calif Cab a bit like the old Martinis. $30.00
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Harrington Mourvedre SumuKawVnyd/ElDoradoCnty (12.9%) 2015: Dark color; strong plummy/Mourv/spicy
some ElD/earthy/mushroomy light oak quite attractive nose; bit soft strong plummy/Mourv/grapey light
ElD/earthy/loamy light toasty/oak flavor w/ modest smooth/ripe tannins; very long plummy/Mourv/black
fruits slightly soft strong ElD/earthy/mushroomy light oak finish w/ light ripe tannins; maybe a bit
lacking in structure but a classic expression of ElD Mourv. $25.00
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Harrington SubRosa 50% Syrah/Mourvedre SumuKawVnyd/ElDoradoCnty (13.2%; 108 cs) 2016: Dark color;
light plummy/Mourv some blackberry/Syrah/spicy very light earthy/mushroomy/ElD slight Rhonish/roasted
lovely nose; lightly tart strong plummy/blackberry/Syrah light toasty/oak slight ElD/earthy rather
bright bit Rhonish flavor w/ light smooth tannins; very long rather bright/plummy/blackberry/Syrah/
spicy light earthy/ElD slight Rhonish/pungent finish w/ light tannins; not nearly as much ElD/
mushroomy/earthy character and more bright Syrah w/ a bit of Rhonish character; quite an attractive
Rhone blend. $25.00
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Gang of Six Syrah McEvoyRanch 2018: Very dark color; strong blackberry/Syrah/spicy light c-c/peppery/
Rhonish maybe bit w-c/pungent quite attractive nose; bit tart strong blackberry/Syrah/spicy bit
c-c/black pepper slight Rhonish/w-c flavor w/ light gentle tannins; very long strong blackberry/
Syrah/spicy light c-c/pepper finish w/ light tannins; seems a bit simpler/more fruit forward and
less c-c/pepper than #14; quite an attractive Syrah. $nc (KZ)
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Harrington Syrah McEvoyRanch/MarinCnty (13.4%) 2018: Very dark color; very strong blackberry/Syrah/
spicy fairly strong c-c/black pepper slight Rhonish/w-c(?) bit complex beautiful nose much like an
EdStJ; fairly tart quite c-c/black pepper strong spicy/blackberry/Syrah/peppery light pencilly/oak
some complex flavor w/ modest gentle tannins; very long/lingering strong c-c/black pepper strong
blackberry/Syrah/spicy bit w-c/Rhonish/pungent finish w/ modest tannins; a lovely expression of a
c-c Syrah. $18.25
More pintlboyd from TheBloodyPulpit:
- Many of these wine were purchased from Bryan in his regular releases before he decided to shut down
his wnry. So the prices were higher than the wines he’s been closing out for $15.00/btl, which came
to $18.25/btl w/ shipping. Some of the wines included here were tasted down at Susan’s as I work thru
the 14 cs that we ordered at closeout pricing.
- I have, of course, followed Bryan Harrington’s wines from the very start, when KenZinns tipped me off
that I should check them out. Bryan started out w/ a focus on PinotNoir. But he soon went of the deep
end to switch his focus to obscure varietals, which was right in my wheel-house. With the authorization
of FPS/Davis, he would go to Europe (mostly Italy) and source plant material from great producers that
he thought might do well in Calif and make interesting wines. Someday, I’d like to see a complete list
of varieties he’s sourced. After the vines went thru FPS quarantine, they’d be released to Bryan &
others. This silver-tongued devil would then sweet-talk various vnyd owners into planting these new
varieties for him. My group developed a real following for Bryan’s wines, especially some of these
obscure varietals
When I travel to NCal, KenZinns will usually organize a dinner for a bunch of wine friends which
would usually include Bryan. On my last visit last Fall, at dinner at BluePlate, Bryan confided to
me that he was shutting down HarringtonWnry. I was devastated. Turns out, his landlord more than
quadrupled his rent for the space his wnry occupied in the industrial bottoms of SouthSanFrancisco.
He decided HarringtonWnry was not sustainable w/ that rent increase and decided to pull the plug.
Sell off all his winemaking equiptment and move on. He has been selling of his remaining inventory
at $15/btl, in case lots. Stupid/silly pricing on some exceptional wines. Our group wound up buying
14 cs, of which many of these wines were from that clear-out.
The real concern of mine is where those obscure variety grapes will find a home. I fear that some
of them may be pulled, a shame. Casey Bowers, who made his wine (http://www.cbwinecellars.com/) at
Bryan’s facility, is apparently taking over some of those grapes. But his production is pretty tiny.
Bryan will return to his art (painting), which was his occupation afore he became a famous winemaker.
But it is all so sad…truly the end of an exciting era. 'Tis all she wrote. I will very much miss
Bryan’s wines, though they will continue to show up from time-to-time in my TN’s. And they will
provide some great drinking for yrs to come. Finis.
- Gamay: This is one of the most exotic/unusual expressions of Calif Gamay I’ve had. Way far away from
what SteveEdmunds does w/ this grape. It has an earthy/loamy character that speaks of SanBenitoCnty.
Given it’s vnyd origins, I would suspect it is OV Valdigue, rather than the GamayNoir a jus Blanc.
Quite exotic stuff that I really took a liking to.
- Verdelho: This is the Portugese grape that is grown on Madeira, where it makes the Verdelho type of
Madeira, mid-way betwixt Bual and Sercial. Also grown in tiny amounts in the Azores. And grown in
Galicia, where it is named Verdello. This is the first Calif rendition of Verdelho I’ve seen in
Calif. Why somebody is growing Verdelho in the high-rent district of NapaVlly is beyond me. They
are, in fact, Clay & Brenda Cockerell, who makes wine under the Coquerel Wines label, with their
winemaker being Christine Barbe. I’ve not tried their Verdelho, nor any of their wines. But I was
quite impressed w/ Bryan’s rendition of Verdelho.
- Freisa: Is, of course, one of the parents of Nebbiolo. It, to my tastes, makes a very interesting
wine that often shown much of the same characteristics of Nebb. Alas, there’s very little Freisa
planted in Calif. I assume this SkowVnyd Freisa is some that Bryan brought back to Calif from Italy.
This Harrington Freisa is as good as any Freisa I can recall from Piemonte.
- Negrette: A grape variety grown primarily in SW France near Toulouse and Fronton. It is a direct
descendent of the Mavro rootstock grown on Cyprus. It was long grown in Calif (especially for Almaden)
under the name PinotSt.George until DNA identified PStG as Negrette. So this is probably OV PStG.
- McEvoy: This is the ranch West of Petaluma that grows the McEvoy Olive Oil, one of the best olive oils
in Calif. Bryan’s first effort w/ these grapes was the '17 vintage. It was/is a beautiful example of
c-c/black pepper Syrah and a dead ringer for an EdStJ Syrah. I slightly preferred the '17 over the
'18; but both are outstanding Syrahs.
The Gang of 6 version was made by KenZinns & others who work w/ Bryan, made from the same grapes.
They make their own wines from time to time from grapes that Bryan brings in.
Tom