TN: Decades of Decadence - "The 9's"

A fun night in the back room of Industrial Eats in Buellton with great food, company, and an amazing lineup of wines. I’m thankful to have been able to be a part of it.

DECADES OF DECADENCE - “THE 9’S” - Buellton, CA (12/21/2019)

Reception:

  • 2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
    Great intensity on the nose, with floral & mineral notes, citrus zest and brioche. Terrific depth and structure with finely chiseled flavors, texture, and depth. Still reticent overall. Needs time.

Flight 1:

  • 2009 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Exotic aromas of gingerbread, sandstone, sandalwood, quince, lemon zest and acacia. Intensely mineral and floral palate, with salinity and zesty fruit. Exotic, with bright acidity and finely grained structure. Seamless depth and length through the finish. More fruit emerges with air. Beautifully done. Needs time. (95 pts.)
  • 2009 DuMOL Chardonnay Chloe - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Intense spice and rich citrus fruit on the nose that carries through to the palate. Richly textured and full-weighted palate with great flavor intensity brought into focus with nicely balancing acidity. The wine sharpens and shows more finesse with air. Excellent. (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
    Aromas of slate, hibiscus, citrus and spices. Mineral-driven fruit with round texture. Loses a little steam with air. (88 pts.)

Flight 2:

  • 1999 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Bricking ruby color. Aromas of bay leaf, plum, spices and blood sausage. Beautifully elegant palate with intense red fruit and seamless secondary depth of sous bois that goes for days. Seamless and fine structure. Drinking wonderfully. (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Deep and exotic aromatics of melted stone, plum & cassis, lavender, and savory spices. Concentrated and expansive on the palate with dense black cherry fruit, savory spices and earth. Juicy and fleshy with round smooth tannins, great depth and length. A massive wine with so much intensity and depth. Still very primary. Needs time. (95 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Saint-Cosme Gigondas Le Poste - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas
    Aromas of anise, black cherry, crushed stone and graphite. Concentrated dried black fruit, umami notes, graphite & stone on the attack, with a broad and full structure. Backwards in the moment, needs time. (92 pts.)

Flight 3:

  • 1989 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Aromas of leather glove, seeming whiff of TCA that seemed to integrate, cassis, clove, and cassis. Nice elegance with depth of earth, spices and florals. Giving nice tertiary pleasure with pleasant supporting fruit.
  • 1999 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Aromatics of paprika, spices, florals and currants – very expressive. Vibrant fruit on the palate, showing plenty of primary fruit and totally integrated secondary depth. Silky and fine structure, with fresh acidity. Finishes with elegant depth and length. (94 pts.)
  • 1999 Karl Lawrence Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Aromas of cassis, saddle leather, pine sap, and spices. Rich, round and fleshy secondary/primary palate with good depth and round juicy structure. Showing very well. (91 pts.)

Flight 4:

  • 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    Exotic aromas of blood, bay leaf, mesquite marinade, rosemary and cherries. Regal weight, elegance and texture on the palate. Very expressive and integrated secondary/primary notes. Silky and totally integrated. Great depth. Drinking beautifully. (96 pts.)
  • 1999 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Aromas of rosemary and sage, stone, dried florals and plum sauce. Ample dark fruit on the palate with secondary root spices and floral notes. Silky broad structure, well-integrated, very nice intensity. Drinking very well. (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Jaffurs Syrah Upslope - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
    Aromas of saddle leather, braised meats, black cherry and crushed stone. Compact and concentrated palate, rich and intense, with smooth and round texture. Needs time. (91 pts.)

Flight 5:

  • 1989 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
    Aromas of worn cedar, leather, cassis, sawdust, earth and mushroom. Silky and seamless palate and just expands and broadens as it goes. Very secondary but plenty of fruit, huge middle with great depth. Very finely structured with big depth on the finish. Broad and massive, but with stately elegance and grace. Showing beautifully. (97 pts.)
  • 1999 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
    Paprika spices, lavender, cherries, exotic spices and tea leaf aromas. Leathery fruit and spices on the palate, with seamless floral depth. Full rich mid-palate, elegant and finely structured. Great depth and length. Drinking beautifully (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Saxum Paderewski Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
    Leather, graphite, plum, cassis, earth aromas. Extreme concentration and depth. Showing heat and alcohol. Backwards black fruit and licorice spices. Full rich depth. Shut down, needs time. (89 pts.)

Dessert Wine:

  • 1989 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Amber color. Aromas of dried apricot, tea leaf spices and flowers. Exotic and fresh palate showing exotic stone fruit, frommage and florals. Great acid and texture, rich depth and length. Showing beautifully. (93 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Been seeing a lot of tasting notes lately where lowly Spain whups the Big Boys.

Great notes. Your two Beaucastel notes make me wonder why I don’t drink more CdP.

many years ago I went to a Bipin Desai tasting called “the great nines,” wonderful, back to 1929 DRC RC that looked like dirty bath water mixed with orange juice and was one of the 3 best red wines I’ve had even to this date. Your event reminded me.

Matt,

Truly bummed I missed this Taste Pilots tasting - over the top as usual! Looks like a wonderful variety of wines - and it’s awesome that you had a big enough crew there to enjoy them all! I did stash away a few '9’s that I was not able to share - perhaps we’ll have to get together and do it again sooner rather than later!!!

Cheers.

Love the back room at Industrial. Nice set of wines. Cheers Matt!

1989 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Aromas of worn cedar, leather, cassis, sawdust, earth and mushroom. Silky and seamless palate and just expands and broadens as it goes. Very secondary but plenty of fruit, huge middle with great depth. Very finely structured with big depth on the finish. Broad and massive, but with stately elegance and grace. Showing beautifully. (97 pts.)

That is a 9 I can get behind.

There’s the ‘back room’ and then the ‘folded tables in the office’ that we occupy :slight_smile: Not fancy but very homey indeed . . .

Cheers.

Nice line-up and terrific notes. I had the 89 La Chapelle last week. Gorgeous wine!

Thanks for the comments, guys. Alan, that sounds like an amazing wine and I love your description of the color. Larry - I’m always up for a redux! You were missed and hope to see you soon. I enjoyed the ‘folded table in the office’ space.

A couple of follow up notes. The '09 Beaucastel Hommage and '09 Coche Dury Mersault Les Perrieres seem headed in epic directions, both were too young to compete for WOTN but both were awesome and unique in their own right. I may be underrating the '99 Montelena, it was pretty special. The '89 Jaboulet La Chapelle could make a case for WOTN, it had great elegance, finesse and purity but to me the Unico was so memorable for its massive mid-palate and secondary notes. Musar, Guigal, Karl Lawrence, Jaffurs and DuMOL also showed very well in their respective flights. It was quite a tasting!

A fascination line-up. Thanks for the notes, Matt.

That was my impression, too, of a bottle I opened 10 days ago. It was corked, but it was one of those cases where you could tell there was a lovely wine behind the TCA and I got a fair deal of pleasure from it, notwithstanding the flaw. Lots of fruit, still well-structured even though the tannins had softened substantially.

The office is the only back room I know of. Jeff has made made some amazing meals for our group.