Another grand, grand day. Who doesn’t go for Champagne breakfast?? We had a ton of wonderful wine today, capped off by a brilliant performance by Berto’s daughter Eden in their theatre production of Annie. The kind of day you want to remember for a long time.
2004 Dom Perignon Rose
Dazzling in its intensity, almost zero dosage in feel and taste, but the clarity of the wine is something that rarely comes along. Like the 08 Cristal, demands your full attention. It’s a super-close horserace as to which I like better. At least 30 years of life left, it would not be wrong to let this air out for at least an hour. Special. When I give it some more thought, this has to come out best. WOTD and the weekend.
2007 Bollinger Grand Annee Rose
In a way, unfair to serve this with the 04 Dom Rose. It has its own fine tune to play, but is overshadowed. Standing apart, it does have super balance, a nice softness to the apple fruit to set off good bubbles and a slightly smoky length. No question, very, very good, just made less by the wine before it.
2010 Rivers-Marie Sonoma Coast PN
Berto was generous to open this. Cherries jubilee dominate the nuzzie and the tongue now, and while there isn’t really anything else, there is something to be said for the purity of expression here. I think I’d drink these up in the next 2-3 years if you have any left.
2010 Altesino Brunello
Decanted for 2 hours, this does have a ceiling, but I like very much what it gives me today, tinges of meat and leather around dark berry and a bit of plum. Nice warmth and some tannins and acid to brace and frame everything. Went very well with Dave’s pasta and tomato sauce.
1989 Penfolds Grange Hermitage
Every time we come down, I do make a special request of Berto. This was my request this time. The bouquet still hits you like a heavyweight—macerated plums and eucalyptus and chocolate. Those scents make it to the palate, along with a little beef blood. It remains a powerhouse, even after about a 3 hour decant. Delicious with some sausage, it’s a wine which speaks so clearly to me of Australia, in the best way. Very happy to have this. Nick reported it showed best after 8 hours’ decant, which is what I might expect.
2016 Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurtzgarten GG
This is well-shaped for what it is, quite sharply defined for me with apple and lilac playing their roles. Maybe a small taste of pink grapefruit in there, it is sprightly but perhaps missing the continuing level of freshness and acidity at the back palate that I might prefer. OTOH, maybe that’s GG in style. Enjoyed it.
2016 Weinbach PG Cuvee St. Catherine Clos des Capucins
Ginger notes around unripe pear, this is a young ‘un that I tried the day after opening. While there is some structure and you can see it’s well-made, I’m with Dave in saying that maybe Alsatian Pinot Gris (other than perhaps ZH) is not my cup of tea anymore.
1967 Franco Fiorina Barolo
Nick had this as his #1 at least today, if not the whole weekend. It starts out a little musty, but that blows off. A splendid reaction with the salami we had, very much livened up the wine. I felt this was a nice showing of an older Barolo with a level of class and still good acidity, but missing the true magic of e.g. some 64s I’ve had.
1988 Sterling Reserve Cab
Only the lightest sense of wood now to currant and plum fruit. Palate is very settled and almost demure. There are fine bones here, if maybe not quite as good as, say, the 77 Chappellet I had a little while ago. I should have, perhaps, kept some of this aside for later—the others said this continued to improve.
2003 Domaine Huet Cuvee Constance
Wow. A special treat. Haunting wine. It smells like sugared divinity—whiffs of caramel, apricot, nougat and sweet pear all have a say for me. Dans la bouche, even more impactful, it coats every part with loveliness. Is it the legendary 89? Perhaps not, but it’s darned close 93, a wine to remember for a long time.
1993 Erben K. Haubs-Barzen Bernkastler Alte Badstube Ries Auslese
A rather shy bouquet with hints of sweet apple and some honeysuckle. It is light to taste as well, lighter than I might expect. It has a gentle and sweet (in the romantic sense) presence, but I did expect more presence as a whole.
2014 Chateau de la Maltroye Chassagne La Romanee
Fair structure here and a little matchstick in the nose and mouth, but for me this has a lot of sulphur right now and the wood seems a touch overt. It may shake itself out in time.
2012 Fevre Chablis Les Clos
This was a sure-footed beauty. Really fine lime component wafts up the glass along with mineral and crisp apple. On the tongue, this is about sublime elegance and balance, a wine that tells a story about being in Chablis. Super showing.
2008 Outpost True Cab
This still isn’t lacking in rich black cherry and plum. What has happened is that it has settled down quite a bit on the palate since I last had this 5 or 6 years ago. There is still a ripeness and lushness about this, but it isn’t overpowering now. I’m actually intrigued as to where this wine might end up in 5 years.
2010 Boillot Puligny Clos de la Mouchere
I last had this I think 5 years ago in DC. At that time ,it was virtually impenetrable. While still coiled tight as a spring, it is starting to show its class and colours. Driving lemon, lime and mineral all have an equal say in what is still a full-feeling wine.
2014 Rhys Horseshoe Chard
Delicious and zappy mountain chard. The usual laser precision, with a peppery entry and actually a little tropical fruit zing in the middle which adds interest. It’s still a shade on the young side. Leave 3 more years to fully integrate.
Berto—canNOT express again how thankful we all feel to have you as a friend. A bientot, brother.