A dear friend is in town for a convention this weekend so we went to Red Hen and took a couple of wines with us.
The Dom was the last bottle of my stash, and while this was the perfect evening to share it I do regret not having more (and am now tempted to snag another couple of bottles of the 2008 while I can). It is just a gorgeous wine. Initially I got an explosion of citrus, and it seemed less viscous than a 23 year old champagne might be, but the palate and the weight shifted as the night and the bottle progressed. Absolutely bursting with life, this wine has a very long future ahead of it. I wish I had more, and I simply don’t see the concerns expressed elsewhere about its longevity (and of the 96s more generally).
The Figeac story is not as happy. The last of my 3 bottles, all consumed over the last couple of years, this was the only real disappointment. Bottle one was good. Maybe even very good. Bottle 2 was exceptional, and could be the avatar for St Es of a particular era. Bottle 3 was porcini juice. The wine was robust; it had none of the desiccated, hollowed out markings of a 1970 that had simply succumbed. The color was good, the tannins fully resolved, but the mushroom component dominated everything else. Pretty much undrinkable.
For those in (or visiting) the DC area, I highly recommend Red Hen. While it may not be quite up to the level of Fiola, the food and service are absolutely on point while also being (a) much cheaper; (b) much more casual; and (c) MUCH more accommodating for winos. The list is paltry but they welcomed BYO without hesitation, allowed me to open the Figeac with the Durand, had decent stemware, and really made the evening comfortable. Tough reservation but worth pursuing.
Thanks for the note on the '96 Dom. Understand your melancholy about drinking your last bottle. I still 4 or 5 in abeyance. Such a great bottle. Fortunately you have the 2008 to look forward to. You cannot buy enough '08. Otherwise all you will have is regrets.
Agree 100% on ‘96 Dom. I’ve been lucky to drink on occasion from other people’s stashes (saving my 3 bottles), including 2 weeks ago when a bottle drank like you describe, maybe even younger. A long life ahead.
Your experience with ‘70 Figeac also mirrors mine over the last few years (maybe 4 occassions). I’ve had spectacular complex bottles with tons of energy and strong fruit, while other bottles have been tired, tasting of old wine. I think you have to chalk it up to bottle variation. Sorry this last one didn’t cut it.
Red Hen and DP sound great, the 70 Figeac consistent with the times I’ve had it. Never had a good bottle (out of maybe 5 or 6 drunk in the early 2000’s).
I drank a bottle of 1970 Figeac last night. It came from a friend’s cellar, but I’ve been storing it on it’s side in a refrigerator at work since hot summer weather began. Yesterday my friend called to say that he was stopping by late in the day - so I stood the bottle up on my desk for an hour before pulling the cork, just as he arrived. I don’t keep supplies for opening old bottles at work but I do have a carafe, some tasting glasses, and a funnel, and I keep a cheap corkscrew (bought in St Helena 25 years ago) in a zippered pocked of my lunch bag. Amazingly, I was able to extract the cork with just the corkscrew and without any dropping into the bottle. Over then next hour or so we enjoyed a few small glasses each from the decanter. Then the last 1/3 went back into the cleaned bottle so I could take it home to share with my wife over dinner.
I was a wonderful bottle of wine, and the portion I took home was just as good - about 3 hours after decanting.
My wife doesn’t drink much wine but always wants to taste the old ones I acquire. Last night she helped finish the bottle, and said she would happily drink thru a case of this wine.
Great note…I have not been to Red Hen but will book ASAP. Rarity to find a restaurant in DC…that actually WELCOMES BYOB. On the Dom, I get it…but fun to share great wines with friends.
I happened to buy a case of 70 Figeac a couple years ago and finally took delivery about a year ago. I think I’ve had 4 btls, 3 have been stellar and 1 tired/lackluster. I think I paid less than $100/btl so I’m happy with the purchase…very happy.