At a favorite local restaurant, started with 1990 Eugen Muller Forster Kirchenstuck riesling auslese (500 ml) with charcuterie and then a rather decadent bone marrow over toast. The color is an appropriate old gold. Waxy and honeyed. More evolved, and not as much acidity or petrol, as I had expected. The wine is satisfying as a pairing but probably suffered from elevated expectations, as I have been fortunate enough to enjoy so many terrific 1990 auslese. 90
Following up was a terrific surprise, the 2018 Domaine de la Raderie Rosé Pineau d’Aunis Coteaux du Loire. At $13 from Garagiste, this is one of the best roses I’ve ever tasted. Rimmerman calls it “sparkling” but I would say “mildly frizzante”. In any event, it is a pretty salmon color, just ever-so-slightly off-dry, and the perfect amount of acidity. Quite food versatile. The rare rose IMHO that would be wasted if consumed with sand between one’s toes. 92
Next up, 1990 Raffault “Les Picasses”. We had a lively thread about this wine recently 1990 Raffault "Les Picasses" - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers
and it so happened my friend brought it to dinner. This bottle had evolved even more glacially than the last one, though, and so it didn’t quite show its best. Very stoic and unyielding at first, with time the cab franc telltales emerge. Plenty of stuffing but neither the silky texture nor the general sex appeal of the previous rendition. Still pretty damn good though, needless to say. I do love this stuff, but I call 'em as I see 'em. 91
The 1999 L’Arlot Nuits St. George “Clos de l’Arlot” very much punched above its 1er weight. Sensual on the nose, reasonably resolved but some gas remains in the tank. Cherry vanilla and orange rind. And is there a better pairing than duck and red burg with some age? Having paid $75 for this bottle not long ago, who says great burg has to break the bank? Cellartracker says 89 but I say 94. One more left – yippee!
Somehow we saved the best for last with the 2005 Sine Qua Non Roussanne Atlantis Fe2O3~3e (375 ml). My last SQN from my former place on the mailing list (sniff sniff). I can’t recall how much Manfred set me back for this one, but I think it would give any Yquem a run for its money. A dark copper color, the nose is kaleidoscopic with orchard fruits. In the mouth it becomes for this humble scribe all apricot. The wine is almost indescribably viscous, its bracing acidity standing up perfectly to the amazing sweetness. It lingers on the tongue long enough to deter conversation seemingly for minutes, in an interminable finish. Wow! 98
