Clos du Jaugueyron - Haut-Médoc - 2009 and 2010

I was curious to try these, because Neal Martin’s recent reviews of some of this domain’s wines suggested that they were best drunk young.

Clos du Jaugueyron - Haut-Médoc 2009

Very intense aromas of raspberry with strong hints of blackcurrant, leading into a bright mouthful of Morello cherry and raspberry, only moving into blackcurrants in the middle section, with a long, intense finish. Very crisp and streamlined, but with plenty of roundness and depth, a post-modern wine which tastes nothing like traditional Bordeaux, still less the oaky “modern” variety. Without the Tigger-like fruit of other Haut-Médocs in 2009, which jump up and down trying to grab your attention, nor the tendency towards syrupy flavours that some CBs are now suffering from, this has the poise and elegance of a top Margaux at under half the price. Still primary, I can see this being even better in another five to ten years.

Clos du Jaugueyron - Haut-Médoc 2010

Just as intense, but the aromas here focus more on blackberry and flowers. The attack is just as bright and arresting, but slightly higher octave, slightly more narrow, with again blackberry, together with some red cherry, rather than the sour cherry of the 09. The finish is long, but it’s a lot more tight and restrained, less well-rounded, so it doesn’t have the same appeal as the 09, although on its own it is certainly very attractive. Very impressive but at this stage, less so than the 09. It probably just needs time to unwind.

I’m a latecomer to this domain, only discovering the wines this year. I first heard about them when I read the good reviews in RMP’s 2003 book - which is a little ironic since I would not have expected him to like them, but I never got round to buying any. So far, I prefer the Haut-Médocs, not because they’re better than the Margaux, but because they’re much cheaper for a similar experience.

Anyway, if you’re sick of all that oak, chocolate, mocha and vanilla, or even just tired of Bordeaux, these wines are for you. They really do sweep away the cobwebs of taste. I can quite understand why younger drinkers would go for them, because they taste good young and because they are so fresh and crisp.

But for once, I have to disagree with Neal, because they certainly can mature.

Thanks for the detailed notes! I had the 1999 and the 2005 Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc a few times in recent years - excellent wines with a good aging potential. Prices are indeed very attractive. I also remember a bottle of the 2005 Margaux version. This stylish wine was not significantly more complex, but showed a bit more depth and aging potential, for almost twice the price, though – I think, overpriced compared to the 2005 Haut-Médoc, but still reasonably priced compared to the more prestigious Margaux classified growths of comparable quality.

Cheers Rudi - yes, we agree about the Margaux version, although I’ll be trying a 2000 soon which may convince me it’s worth the difference.

Julian, I look forward to your enthusiastic note!

I love this winery, but have only had the Margaux not the Haut-Medoc. Post-modern as the descriptor is perfect, I have not thought of it. Has its feet planted in both camps, but only touching the positive attributes of modernity, not the many negatives. The Margaux vineyard actually has some of the oldest vines in Bordeaux, including some sandy top soil Franc de Pieds. The Margaux is lithe, perfumed, textured, with great transparency. Like Loire Franc de Pieds, they seem to show well early but clearly will age gracefully. The 2000 and 2005 vintages are both fantastic.

Cheers Robert - yes, I think there’s a great similarity with Loire reds of the kind you mention, but also the organic wines that have the same freshness to the fruit. I think, or rather I hope, that Michel Théron will receive the praise he is due in a few years time for the pioneering work he has done. I think that more and more domains will taste like his wines have done for the last twenty years.