Charles Joguet, really one of the all-time greats in the pantheon of Loire Cab Franc winemaking, once quipped that the sun always shines on Clos Rougeard. Leaving aside Rougeard - which stands supreme in Loire like d’Yquem does to Sauternes - Joguet has an amazing history of producing extraordinary cuvees from very distinct parcels. While one can quibble over which is best, Clos de la Dioterie is generally considered the flagship and is comprised of by far the oldest vines in the Joguet stable. This unique vineyard was planted between 1930 and 1940.
I cannot say Clos de la Dioterie is my favorite cuvee. For that, I would have to say the Franc de Pied cuvee which succumbed to the phylloxera louse by 2008 was hands-down my fave, and in quality years, Clos du Chene Vert is more of the archetype of a Loire Cab Franc. I always buy Dioterie as well, however.
So what’s unique about Clos de la Dioterie?
For me, it is the beefiest, meatiest, richest, and perhaps even the most dark-fruited Loire Cab Franc made. Period. The 2005 bottling walks that fine line between greatness and chaos, almost over the top in richness and structure. I still have some cellared waiting to see what ultimately evolves.
This 2009 is outstanding. Dialed slightly back from 2005, but wow still so dense, so meaty, so rich, so dark-fruited. But not OTT. Pinch the nose a bit, one might think a fantastic Pomerol from a ripe vintage. Love the deep, wet mossy taste and feel to this wine, a perception of rich riverside soils with old vines reaching down deeply into the rich strata. I feel and taste the iconic Loire River. “Loire” derives from the Gaulish word liga, which means "silt, sediment, deposit, alluvium.” Apropos, as you taste that in this wine, yet to be frank, I have no clue how close this vineyard is to this river. It doesn’t matter, the river is the lifeblood of this region. Heavy weight on the palate, deep rich dark fruits and a reasonable degree of red fruit structure and acid to give this large wine some lift. Closes with chalky, sweet tannins, in its lengthy, caressing finish.
This wine is still a baby. I am enjoying it immensely, but will try to hold off 4-5 years for the next bottle and guess that in 10 years it is singing in Gaul on ode to the beauty of this historic part of France. I had a 1990 Dioterie several years ago with Corey and MarcF, and it was outstanding. There is no doubt that this cuvee can age magnificently.
(94 pts.)