TN: Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva tasting

BODEGAS RIOJANAS RIOJA MONTE REAL GRAN RESERVA TASTING - Boqueria Penn Quarter, Washington D.C. (11/11/2019)

Mannie Berk of the rare wine company organized a vertical tasting of Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva and I was lucky to be invited. The dishes at Boqueria Penn Quarter was good. The wines showed exceptional well, very classic, nicely detailed and ideally cellared. They were incredibly mineral which can be attributed the limestone soil. It was an enjoyable and educational evening. My sincere gratitude goes to Mannie.

Champagne
This was solid.

  • NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
    The style reminds me Larmandier a bit. Medium expressive nose displaying baked apple, lemon curd, almond paste, a hint of cinnamon and limestone. Medium concentration, slightly coiled yellow fruit, medium abundant medium fine mousse, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a medium long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with almond paste at the end. It shows good nutty complexity. (91 pts.)

White Rioja
I really liked this. Some found it a bit advanced. Although ripe, there was no sign of oxidation, remaining fresh.

  • 1973 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Gran Reserva Blanco Monte Real - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Clear golden/light amber color. Fully mature nose displaying ripe slightly dry yellow fruit, dry peach, apricot, lanoline, a hint of raisin and sweet spices. Beautifully integrated palate, delicious subtle yellow fruit, elegant and harmonious, slightly flat middle, medium acidity and a long subtle yellow fruit driven finish with lanoline at the end. This reminds me of a fully mature grave blanc. Although ripe and mature, no sign of oxidation. Perhaps not for everyone but I am loving it. (94 pts.)

11, 10 and 04
The 04 and 10 were similar. All showed good mineral expression and freshness.

  • 2011 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Expressive nose displaying sweet black fruit, blackberry, black plum, a hint of oak, ash, dark spices and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentrated black fruit, silky, bright acidity, strong mineral presence, fine tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with a hint of ash at the end. Much more primary than the 10. Nice showing. (92 pts.)
  • 2010 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Medium expressive nose displaying warm red fruit, cherry, strawberry, also cassis, a hint of American oak, caramel, sautéed mushroom, leather and limestone. Very good concentration, nicely layered red fruit, warm and round, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long sweet red fruit and mushroom driven finish. Although promising, this is drinking nicely. (93 pts.)
  • 2004 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    The lightest color of the flight. Medium expressive nose displaying bright red fruit, American oak, grilled cep, ash, tapenade and limestone. Fully integrated palate, very finely layered red fruit, silky and polished, medium acidity and medium mineral, and a medium to long subtle bright red fruit driven finish with a hint of American oak at the end. Really enjoyable. (93 pts.)

01, 98 and 78
I really like the 01 and 78, both very youthful and showed impressive concentration and balance.

  • 2001 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Very youthful color. Expressive youthful nose displaying black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, sour cherry, grilled cep, mint, incense, lavender, cinnamon and earth. Beautifully integrated youthful palate, finely layered pure black fruit, round, silky and polished, bright acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with incense and mint at the end. Although this has reach the youthful peak, this can easily improve for a couple more decades. (94 pts.)
  • 1998 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Clear medium ruby color. Medium expressive nose displaying subtle cherry fruit, a hint of American oak, onion, leather, dirty damp cellar and mineral. Nicely integrated delicate palate, subtle red fruit, silky and fluid, medium acidity and mineral and a medium long subtle red fruit driven finish. Showing more tertiary than the 78. The most tertiary driven and ready wine of the flight. (90 pts.)
  • 1978 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Incredibly youthful color. Expressive nose displaying concentrated red fruit, cherry liqueur, a hint of strawberry, leather, raw matsutake, sweet spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentrated red fruit, round and warm, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long warm concentrated red fruit driven finish. This is drinking beautifully. (95 pts.)

75, 68 and 64
I thought the 64 and 75 showed more maturity where the 68 was incredibly youthful.

  • 1975 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Despite darker than the 78, very tertiary dominated Burgundian nose displaying very sweet red fruit, mushroom, leather, damp cellar, tobacco and earth. Fully mature palate, subtle sweet red fruit, warm and silky, medium acidity and mineral, surprisingly a hint of slightly coarse tannins and a medium long shy red fruit driven finish with a hint of damp cellar at the end. Along with the 64 and 75, most mature showing. (91 pts.)
  • 1968 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Another very youthful color. Expressive nose displaying concentrated sweet cherry fruit, leather, sweet spices, caramel, rose and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentrated red fruit, dense yet silky and precise, medium acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet dense red fruit driven finish with leather and rose at the end. Although drinking at the peak, there is enough concentration for this to last for awhile. Excellent showing. (96 pts.)
  • 1964 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    This was the first vintage for the former wine maker Mr. Frias. Apparently the 64 is consider as one of the best vintages. Very complex tertiary dominating nose displaying shy cherry fruit, leather, raw cep, damp cellar, sous bois and earth. Fully integrated Burgundian palate, shy red fruit, silky and light, bright acidity and a medium long red fruit driven finish with leather at the end. I prefer the power and youthfulness of the 68. (93 pts.)

55 and 42
Some preferred the 55. The 42 was mind bogglingly impressive.

  • 1955 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Expressive nose displaying complex tertiary nose, sweet black fruit, black cherry, black plum, leather, damp cellar, sous bois, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered subtle yet concentrated sweet black fruit, rich, round and silky, medium acidity and mineral, and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with damp cellar and leather at the end. I find this very similar to the 64 in style. Although drinking beautifully, no need to waite. (95 pts.)
  • 1942 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Unbelievably youthful black color and the nose and palate clearly reflect. Incredibly youthful yet complex nose displaying intense concentrated black fruit, blackberry, a hint of cassis, black cherry, dark milky chocolate, leather, a hint of sous bois, tobacco, black truffle, cinnamon and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated black fruit, mindbogglingly rich, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long concentrated rich black fruit driven finish with tobacco at the end. It is so darn youthful yet there is a richness of very old wine. Incredible showing. (98 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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So Mannie is still taking his show on the road, huh? I thought he stopped doing these out-of-town (bay Area) dinners? Riojanas is an underrated producer.

Very interesting, Kevin and I really like old traditional style Riojas (for example Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Gran Reserva 1968, still so pleasantly alive, actually very burgundian or the wonderful Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva 1973).

Last encounter in 2015 :
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva 1988 : 15/20 – 27/6/2015
Pas trop dur à identifier. Légère ressemblance avec un pinot en raison de ses goûts de clafoutis, de son acidité et de ses tannins estompés. Rioja à l’ancienne.

What an interesting tasting. I wonder if something else was blended in with that 1942 when they bottled it. It doesn’t sound like typical Rioja, even though I’d love to try it. I got a chuckle about some people finding the '73 Blanco advanced. I’m assuming they are comparing to other bottles they’ve had of that wine.

The former wine maker pointed out that the gran reserva was a field blend until the 50s and had as much as 10% white grapes. Most of the 42s were recorked only once. I beilive the advanced comments were based on other whites, e.g. burgundy from the same period.

Very much agree on the last point!

The 1964, though, was as good as it gets for me. Considering splurging for more at CSW.

Bravo for posting this thread.

Well this is good news. I happen to be born in one of the worst years, some say, in wine, 1956. Two of these 1956 Gran Reserva’s sourced from The Rare Wine Company sitting in the cellar waiting for the right day. I hope they are as good as your 1955.

The 64 is probably my favorite MR GR. So good. Also the 64 MR R is in the same league in a slightly different style - I’d say a touch lighter and more transparent.