One of the great advantages to having a place in France is the access to old wines that it facilitates. I just bought some old Clos des Papes—from vintages 1965, 1959 and 1949—from a cellar in Brittany, ruined labels but branded corks and fine levels. Of the trilogy, despite being the birth vintage of Paul Vincent Avril, 1965 is by far the weakest, so opening a bottle seemed the best way to establish expectations for the rest. Happily, the wine is really superb, more medium-bodied in format than a top vintage would be, but with no signs of decline. Offering up aromas of dried griotte cherries, Indian spices, sweet soil tones and dried citrus rind, it’s medium-bodied, supple and elegantly textural, with lively acids, melting tannins and a fleshy core of fruit, concluding with a sapid and beautifully defined, albeit not hugely long finish. Scoring something like this is really otiose but a good 90/100, without any kind of adjustment for its age, would be appropriate.
I had to google otiose (great word by the way), Around 15 years ago friend of mine turned up with a bottle of the 1966 which was drinking very well and shared a lot of similar characteristics of your note.
That makes sense for the vintage. I think anywhere outside of Northern Europe, '65 Clos des Papes would likely be on its last legs, but in general the aging potential of unreconstructed Châteauneuf was considerable. Since it was not really a commodity wine, it is largely available in the form of odd bottles rather than whole cases, but I am buying more and more, from the '40s through the '80s, and I am seldom disappointed. Generally, what I buy from cellars in northern France is better than the old wines I have tasted in cellars in Châteauneuf, where cellars are mostly quite warm (with some exceptions). Previously, 1972 was the oldest Clos des Papes I have drunk, but I cannot wait to go further back in time. Speaking simply as a consumer, I would love to see the region reconnect with its roots in the form of wines like these.
Exactly what I thought when we drank the 66.
I wonder what they tasted like when they were young wines
William,
Thanks for the note, and the word otiose…if it’s not too nosy, what is the tariff these come in at in Europe from a reputable cellar if I may ask?
Was a tough year in Europe, but I popped a 65 Mouton with some board members several years ago at my house, it was was quite lovely. And very surprisingly alive. As was a recent 73 Latour, which was outstanding. And a 66 Magdelaine. I’ve not had any CDP that old, but a 66 Hermitage from Delas that I had at Berns from 375 was also outstanding. I’ve had some decent luck here.
William, this is the first time running across “otiose”. But the sentiment is perfect regarding wonderful old bottles. Last week drank a 1959 Gattinara for which I felt the same way.
I know the 65 ClosdPape, and it´s indeed a great wine and a spectacular effort for the vintage.
Fortunately a good friend of mine is born in 1965, and I had the joy to taste this … and VS Unico (even bnetter) … and some others
(Barolo can be good).
I had seveeral 59 ChdPs, but not ClosdPape …
Not much luck with 65 Bordeaux - usually never worth the money …