Sociando Mallet 1996 and 1997, plus Clinet 2004

We drank these three with friends at dinner on Saturday.

Sociando Mallet 1996

Blackberries, forest fruits, a touch of eucalyptus and maybe some liquorice on the nose. The attack of plum and blackberry is fresh, not green, but slightly muted, before a searing streak of blackcurrant in the middle section, very profound, and a smooth, velvety finish. Quite straitlaced and well behaved, it never really opened up and the middle section showed that it probably needs a few more years still.

Sociando Mallet 1997

The nose is similar to the 96 but with wild strawberries and some red cherry on top and it’s more open and expressive. In the mouth, it’s bright, elegant and charming, with tongue-tingling dark berry fruit and greater breadth than the 96. There isn’t the powerful middle section of the 96 but the finish is long, fresh and crisp, not unlike a Chinon, but without a hint of green. Needless to say, we opened another bottle.

Not a total shock, since I have enjoyed several bottles of 1997, but I never expected the 97 to be as good at 22, nor to dominate the 96. I suspect that in a few years from now the order of preference will be reversed, but SM is decidedly weird - the 01 is better than the 00 and for now, the 97 is better than the 96.

Clinet 2004

The less said the better. This was fruity, but almost syrupy and the comparison to the two SMs did it no favours at all. Not over the hill, it was still vibrant, but no complexity, no class, it was like drinking a lesser Lalande de Pomerol. The bottle was not finished.

None of the friends present were AFWE wine geeks, just normal French people with average tastes, but I suspect the Clinet would have fared better alone.

I had big hopes for 1996 SM because I like this vintage on the Left Bank and I like the Chateau. Unfortunately I came to the conclusion that SM is a disappointment in this year. I don´t know why but none of the 4 bottles I had so far convinced me that the wine is remarkable in any kind. And frankly I am sceptic that more time will help much.

I had the 1996 Cuvee Jean Gautreau bottling a few months back, and while gorgeous, it still needed more time. Much prefer the 1995 JG. Cannot recall the last time I had the regular 96.

Jürgen, I hope you’re wrong because I have a few left! Comparisons are always killers and on its own, the 96 would have been better. In case you’re interested, iDealwine has loads of 97s which they are selling for 29€ a bottle, and they export to Germany at a reasonable rate. At that price, it’s really good value. It’s not the best SM ever, but it is a truly lovely wine.

Robert, thanks, I shall wait a little longer for my one Cuvée JG 96!

Julien,
thanks for the info but my cellar is full and I am getting older I had a bottle of the 1997 Sociando once in a restaurant and confirm that its a fine wine. I liked it more than the 1996. And I would be happy too btw. for being wrong with my opinion because I still have a few bottles of 1996 SM in my cellar. At the moment I enjoy the 2001 which I think is a superb wine.

I had an excellent bottle of 1996 Sociando-Mallet a year ago or so, but you are right Jürgen, the 2001 is more impressing, at least at present. As a side note, the 2001 Charmail from Sociando’s neighborhood is even a bit better – for half of the price.

As for getting older, I feel your pain, Jürgen! I couldn’t agree more about the 2001, it’s my favourite SM at the moment by a long way. I was surprised that it tasted at least as good as the 1990 at a lot cheaper.

Rudi, funny you should mention that Charmail. I agree it’s really good, like many vintages from that era, before the change of owner. Although Olivier Sèze is still part of the team, the wines do not taste the same at all and I miss the less opulent style of the past. I remember visiting the estate in 2001 and thinking how similar it tasted at the time to SM, if less concentrated and not quite at the same level of quality (IMVHO!).

Indeed, it tastes surprisingly similar Julian. I tasted both 2001s side by side a few years ago, therefore, my vote for Charmail. A bit more complex, a bit more sexy.

The 97 Gautreau is excellent and much more friendly than the 96. I’m not surprised that the regular bottlings show a similar pattern.