Weekend wines (Gimonnet, Domaine du Colombier)

Gimonnet - or Gimmonet as some here seem to call them - do not produce very showy wines but when it comes to classic unoaked Côte des Blancs blanc de blancs they are as reliable and consistent as anyone and the prices have remained remarkably stable when others have increased theirs. This 2012 was a bit more approachable than the 2009 Gastronome but to me these wines are just made for the table and much less for casual drinking.

I had stumbled upon the winemaker of Domaine du Colombier a couple of years back during a visit to Yann Chave but had never had their reds before. This very affordable half bottle of Crozes Hermitage turned out to be a real eye opener as a totally serious and seriously structured wine. I have no problem drinking and enjoying wines from this appellation but generally they tend to be merely pleasant and serviceable rather than thought-provoking or challenging in a positive way. This was a surprisingly complex and demanding wine that convinced me at once that I just must to buy some of their 750s for ageing, both the Hermitage and the Cuvée Gaby but also this entry level wine that definitely punches above its weight. Very classic stuff that is not made to please anyone at an early age - why does no one seem to be talking about this producer?

  • 2012 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée Gastronome Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (27.10.2019)
    The nose is very much classic with bright, light-toned fruit (apple, lime), slight herbaceousness, crushed rock and hints of toast. The palate is very dry without approaching austere at all. Not overly fruity nor autolytic - nor terribly complex - this excels in purity and drinkability and as such representing its classic style. Thoroughly balanced, this is unsurprisingly a great match for raw and simply cooked seafood and evaporates at a high pace.
  • 2012 Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (26.10.2019)
    From a half-bottle. Surprisingly given the age this comes off as youthful more than anything. Bursting of tart, bright red fruit on the nose with notes of iron, bouillon and black pepper. Very pretty with almost haunting perfume. On the palate pleasantly fleshy and mouthfilling early on with fantastic vibrancy about it. About midway trough it starts to tighten up, finishing real grippy. I can imagine this having been a mean, lean wine a couple of years ago but at this point it has definitely started to show gentler, rounder and deliciously meaty. It definitely represents a more (/most) serious end of the Crozes-Hermitage spectrum and I am finding a lot to like here. While very much soil-driven and still largely about primary fruit I am just in awe of the distinct beef stock quality on the finish. Not a bad idea to buy this wine in larger formats to cellar.

Posted from CellarTracker

Gimonnet Special Club champagnes are often very good indeed. 2008 and 2012 (IIRC) spring to mind.

I actually haven’t had his Special Club yet but have a single 2008 in the cellar. Many have praised this wine indeed.